Qtt»  &  K  Htll  Ctbrarg 


Snrth  (Carolina  *tatp  (Inlliw 

S3411 
J44 


//,;■. 


SO  111 4534  J 


jook  may  be  kept  out  TWO  WEEKS 
and    is    subject    to    a    fine    of    tt^r 

CENTS   a   day  thereafter.    It  is   due   on   the 

day  indicated  below: 


DEC  30 


V 


ijd'%0  * 


KQ 


50M — May-54 — Form 


ROSES  FOR  ENGLISH  GARDENS 


Ac  AIMEE   VIBERT  BY  A  COTTAGE  DOOR 


The  "Country  Life" 
Library. 


ROSES  FOR  ENGLISH 
GARDENS. 


BY 

GERTRUDE    JEKYLL 

AND 

EDWARD    MAWLEY. 


PUBLISHED    BY 

"COUNTRY   LIFE"  GEORGE    NEWNES,    Ltd. 

,    TAVISTOCK    STREET  7-12,  SOUTHAMPTON  STREET, 

COVENT  GARDEN,  W.C.  COVENT  GARDEN,  W.C. 

1902. 


PREFACE 


One  of  the  surest  signs  of  the  great  and  ever-growing 
interest  in  gardening  is  to  be  seen  in  the  remarkable 
improvement  in  the  kinds  of  flowers  that  are  now 
to  be  had.  New  plants  are  being  constantly  intro- 
duced ;  good  old  plants,  of  late  forgotten,  are  again 
brought  forward,  and  a  lively  and  wholesome  com- 
petitive industry  has  increased  among  growers  in  the 
improvement  of  garden  flowers.  In  no  class  of  plant 
is  this  more  apparent  than  among  the  Roses.  The 
increasing  desire  to  deck  our  gardens  pictorially  has 
been  met  by  a  truly  surprising  and  successful  series 
of  efforts  on  the  part  of  raisers,  so  that  now,  in 
addition  to  the  older  classes  of  Roses  that  have  been 
available  for  the  last  forty  years,  namely,  the  Hy- 
brid Perpetuals  and  Teas,  there  are  already,  in  great 
variety,  quantities  of  beautiful  new  Roses  of  mixed 
parentage  for  every  possible  use  and  purpose. 

The  time  having  come  when  there  is  a  distinct 
need  for  a  book  that  shall  not  only  show  how  Roses 
may  best  be  grown,  but  how  they  may  be  most 
beautifully  used,  and  that  will  also  help  the  amateur 
to  acquire  some  idea  of  their  nature  and  relation- 
ships, the  present  volume,  with  its  large  amount 
of   illustration,   is    offered    in    the    hope    that   it   will 


vi  PREFACE 

lit  usefully   into   a   space   as   yet   unfilled   in  garden 
literature. 

In  order  that  the  book  may  be  a  complete  Rose 
manual,  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  working  in 
concert  with  Mr.  Edward  Mawley,  who,  in  the 
second  part,  gives  the  result  of  his  long  experience 
as  a  practical  rosarian. 

I  have  to  offer  grateful  acknowledgment  to  Miss 
Willmott  for  a  considerable  number  of  excellent 
photographs,  and  for  valuable  help  in  compiling 
the  list  of  Rose  species  as  garden  plants ;  to  Mr. 
W.  Robinson  for  permission  to  reproduce  some 
Rose  portraits  from  former  coloured  plates  in  The 
Garden;  to  Mr.  Edward  Wooiall  for  the  chapter 
on  Riviera  Garden  Roses  ;  to  Mr.  E.  T.  Cook  for 
frequent  advice  and  assistance,  and  to  the  owners 
of  The  Garden  and  Country  Life  for  a  number  of 
the  illustrations. 

Lists  of  Roses  for  special  purposes  are  given  at 
the  end  of  some  of  the  chapters  where  it  appeared 
that  they  would  be  most  of  use.  At  the  end  of  the 
book  are  also  descriptive  lists,  and  an  alphabetical 
list  of  the  best  Roses  in  all  classes.  A  note  of  the 
abbreviations  used  against  the  Rose  names  appears 
at  p.  149.  It  will  be  understood  that  the  lists  of 
the  Roses  given  are  not  complete  lists  of  all  the 
Roses  known,  but  careful  and  well-proved  selections 
of  the  best. 

G.J. 


CONTENTS 

PART  I 

OLD  AND  NEW  GARDEN  ROSES  AND  THEIR 
BEAUTIFUL  USE  IN  GARDENS 

By  GERTRUDE  JEKYLL 

Chapter  i 

PAGE 

NEW   GARDEN  ROSES 3 

CHAPTER   II 

OLD  GARDEN  ROSES 12 

CHAPTER    III 

THE    BRIER    ROSES 22 

CHAPTER   IV 

POMPON   ROSES        .  ..'.-.  25 

CHAPTER  V 

SOME   OF   THE   SPECIES   AS    GARDEN  ROSES         ...  28 

CHAPTER   VI 

ROSES    ON    THEIR   OWN    ROOTS 33 


viii  CONTENTS 

CHAPTER    VII 

ROSE    PILLARS 


PAGE 
36 


CHAPTER    VIII 

THE    PERGOLA 4° 

CHAPTER    IX 

ROSE    ARCHES    AND    ARBOURS  .  .  .  45 

CHAPTER   X 

ROSE   SCREENS,   HEDGES,    AND    TRELLISES  48 

CHAPTER   XI 

ROSES   AS    FOUNTAINS   AND    GROWING    FREE     .  .  -53 

CHAPTER  XII 

ROSES    ON    WALLS    AND    HOUSES 57 

CHAPTER   XIII 

ROSES    FOR    CONVERTING   UGLINESS    TO    BEAUTY         .  .  62 

CHAPTER  XIV 

ROSE  GARDENS 66 

CHAPTER   XV 

ROSES    AS    CUT    FLOWERS 73 

CHAPTER  XVI 

ROSES    IN    ENGLISH    GARDENS    ON   THE    RIVIERA         .  .  77 


CONTENTS  ix 

PART  II 

PLANTING,  PRUNING,  AND  PROPAGATING  ROSES; 
EXHIBITING,  GROWING  UNDER  GLASS,  ETC. 

By  EDWARD  MAWLEY 
CHAPTER  XVII 

PAGE 

PLANTING    ROSES 9 1 

CHAPTER  XVIII 

PRUNING    ROSES     .  99 

CHAPTER  XIX 

PROPAGATING    ROSES       .  .  .  .  .  .  .       107 

CHAPTER  XX 

THE    ENEMIES    OF   THE    ROSE 113 

CHAPTER  XXI 

EXHIBITING   ROSES  .  .  .  .  .  .  .121 

CHAPTER  XXII 

ROSES    UNDER    GLASS      ......  134 

CHAPTER  XXIII 

SOME    LISTS    OF   THE   BEST   ROSES    FOR    VARIOUS    USES  1 49 


INDEX 


163 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


Climbing  Aimee  Vibert     . 

Crimson  Rambler 

Double  Rosa  Polyantha  . 

Waltham  Rambler 

Branch  of  Double  R.  Polyantha  . 
Madame  Isaac  Pereire      . 

Rosa  Wichuriana 

Madame  Georges  Bruant 
R.  Rugosa  Schneelicht     . 

Rosa  Brunoni 

Thalia 

Sulphurea    

corallina     

Paul's  Single  White  . 

Damask  Rose  and  White  Lilies 

Damask  Rose 

The  White  Rose 

The  White  Rose  on  a  Cottage  Porch  . 
Bank  of  Persian  and  Austrian  Briers 
Large-Flowered  Banksian  Rose     . 

Ayrshire  Roses 

A  Pillar  of  Bennett's  Seedling    . 

Rose  Celestial 

Madame  Plantier 

Rosa  Arvensis 

The  Garland  Rose 

Rosa  Altaica 

Burnet  Rose 

Double  White  Scotch  Briers 

Pink  Scotch  Briers 


Frontispiece 
To  f  cue  page  4 

5 
6 
6 
6 

7 

8 

8 

9 

10 

10 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 


Xll 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Scarlet 


Rosa  Lutea,  single  and  double 
Scotch  Briers     .... 
Single  yellow  Persian  Brier  . 

White  Pet 

Perle  d'Or 

Three  Pomton  Roses  . 

Mignonette 

White  Pet 

Rosa  Macrantha 

Rosa  Altaica  and  R.  Tomentosa  Woodsiana 

Rosa  Arvensis     .... 

Rosa  Bracteata  .... 

Rosa  Brunoni       .... 

Rosa  Hispida       .... 

R.  Macrantha  and  Paul's  Single 

R.  Calocarpa       .... 

Burnet  Rose        .... 

Free-growing  Roses  on  their  own 

Dundee  Rambler 

Free  Cluster  Roses  . 

Gloire  Lyonnaise 

Gloire  Lyonnaise 

Ayrshire  Rose  on  Pillar 

A  Pillar  Rose     . 

Queen  Alexandra 

Climbing  Aimee  Vibert,  Balloon-trained 

Bennett's  Seedling,  Balloon-trained  . 

Rose  Pillars  in  Flower  Border    . 

Dundee  Rambler,  Umbrella-trained    . 

Paul's  Carmine  Pillar      .... 

Cluster  Roses  on  a  Pergola  . 

Pergola  Dividing  Garden  Spaces  . 

Felicite-Perpetue  on  Pergola 

Pergola  of  Wood  Posts  on  Stone  Bases 

Pergola  of  Rough  Larch 

Pergola  of  Rough  Oak    .... 

Rosa  Brunoni  on  Pergola 

Rose  Pergola  in  Kitchen  Garden 


To  face t 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Xlll 


Fence 


Rose  Garlands  on  a  Pergola 
Banksian  Rose,  Large  Flowered    . 
Rosa  Arvensis,  &c.,  on  a  Pergola  . 
Pergola  over  a  Grass  Walk  . 
A  Range  of  Rose  Arches 
Pergola  of  Iron  Framework  . 
Felicite-Perpetue  on  an  Arch 
Crimson  Rambler  over  Hand-Gate 
Diagram  of  Flower  Border,  with  Rose  A 

&c 

Ayrshire  Rose  on  Kitchen  Garden  Arch 
Rose  Arches  at  a  Garden  Corner 
Sir  Joseph  Paxton  on  Iron  Arches 
Cluster  Rose  Felicite-Perpetue 
Wide  Arch  in  Rose  Garden    . 
Dundee  Rambler  on  an  Arch 
Dundee  Rambler  on  a  Gateway 
A  Rose  Screen    .... 
William  Allen  Richardson  on  a 
Hedge  of  Pink  Rover 
Hedge  of  Psyche 
Part  of  an  open  Rose  Screen 
Hedge  of  Madame  Alfred  Carriere     . 
Garland  Rose  in  a  Cottage  Garden    . 
Garland  Rose  in  the  Garden  Landscape 
Rose  Flora  growing  into  Shrubs  . 

Bush  Cluster  Rose 

Climbing  Aimee  Vibert  over  Willows 

Garland  Rose  over  a  Yew 

Garland  Rose  in  Catalpa 

Rosa  Multiflora  on  a  Bank  . 

Roses  and  Cistuses  in  the  Rock-Garden 

Branch  of  Dundee  Rambler  . 

Rose  Flora  on  a  Garden  House    . 

Cluster  Roses  on  a  Cottage  . 

Bennett's  Seedling 

Bennett's  Seedling 

Alice  Gray  and  Felicite-Perpetue 


To  face  page  44 

»  44 

,.  44 

.,  44 

..  44 

,.  44 

»  45 

„        „  46 


46 
46 
46 
46 
46 
46 
46 
47 
48 
49 
5° 
50 
5i 
52 
53 
54 
54 
54 
55 
56 
56 
56 
50 
.56 
57 


XIV 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


Blush  Boursault        .... 

Roses  on  a  House  Wall  . 

Climbing  Aimbb  Vibbrt  on  a  House 

William  Allen  Richardson  on  a  Verandah 

Garland  Rose  on  a  Terrace  Wall 

Rose  coming  over  a  Wall 

Rose  Flora  trained  over  a  Wall 

An  Ugly  Wooden  Summer-house    . 

Old  Farm  Buildings 

Garden  Arch  of  Old  Apple  Limbs 

Dead  Apple  Trees  clothed  with  Roses 

Dead  Apple  Trees  clothed  with  Roses 

Climbing  Rose  on  a  Farm  Shed 

Climbing  Rose  on  Dead  Apple  Tree 

A  Bed  of  Tea  Roses  . 

Rose  Beds  on  Lawn   . 

A  New  Rose  Garden 

A  New  Rose  Garden 

Approach  to  a  Rose  Garden 

Roses  at  Edge  of  Woodland 

Rose  Bushes  in  Paved  Terrace 

Rose  Border  on  Sloping  Ground 

Cluster  Rose  over  Terrace  Wall 

Plan  of  Rose  Garden 

Rambling  Rose  in  the  Wood  Edge 

Plan  of  Rose  Garden 

Rambling  Rose  in  Trees  at  Wood  Edge 

Viscountess  Folkestone   . 

Free  Roses  Grown  as  Garlands 

Rose  Garden  in  the  Making  . 

Garland  Rose  in  Trees    . 

Rose  Garden  among  Cypresses 

Tea  Roses  of  the  Dijon  Class 

Cottage  Nosegay  of  Roses 

Madame  Alfred  Carriere 

Double  White  Scotch  Briers  . 

Bowl  of  Late  September  Roses 

Burnet  Rose  and  Scotch  Briers 


To  face  page 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


XV 


Bowl  of  Tea  Roses 

Rose  d'Amour 

Rosa  Alba 

China  Rose 

October  Roses  and  Clematis  . 
China  Roses  and  Ivy  in  October  . 
Dundee  Rambler  in  a  Jar 

Robert  Duncan 

souv.  de  la  malmaison  and  almee  vlbert 
Lady  Emily  Peel  in  September 
Climbing  Roses  on  an  Italian  Villa     . 
Banksian  Rose  in  Trees   .... 

Rosa  Sinica  

Lamarque      

Banksian  Rose,  double  yellow 

Antoine  Rivoire 

Madame  Falcot 

Standard  Jules  Margottin     . 
Method  of  planting  Roses 
Pruning  of  an  Exhibition  Rose     . 
Pruning  of  a  Garden  Rose     . 
Pruning  of  a  Standard  H.P.  . 
Lady  Mary  Fitzwilliam    . 

Jean  Pernet         

White  Baroness 

Catherine  Mermet 

Viscountess  Folkestone 

Method  of  protecting  Standard  Teas 

Mrs.  Edward  Mawley 

Exhibition  Roses  in  a  Garden 

Ernest  Metz 

Hon.  Edith  Gifford  .... 

Ernest  Metz  and  Madame  de  Watteville  . 
Shelter  for  Exhibition  Roses 

Mrs.  Paul 

Madame  Jules  Grolez 

Madame  Charles 

Baroness  Rothschild         .... 


To  face 


page  74 

74 

74 

74 

74 

74 

75 

76 

76 

76 

77 

78 

79 

8o 

84 

87 

88 

9i 

96 

100 

101 

102 

:o6 

106 

106 

107 

no 

"5 

121 

122 

123 
124 
125 
127 
128 
128 
128 
129 


XVI 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


Exhibition  Rose  Box To  face  page  130 

Blooms  arranged  in  Exhibition  Box    .  131 

Souvenir  de  Catherine  Guillot    ....„„     132 

Mrs.  John  Laing „        .,133 

Anna  Olivier ,        „     134 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant „        „     135 

La  Fkance  and  Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon  „  136 

Augustine  Guinoisseau ...137 

Mrs.  John  Laing ..     140 

Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon „  144 


PART    I 

OLD  AND  NEW  GARDEN  ROSES  AND  THEIR 
BEAUTIFUL  USE  IN  GARDENS 

By   GERTRUDE   JEKYLL 


ROSES  FOR  ENGLISH  GARDENS 

CHAPTER  I 

garden  roses  new  and  old 

New  Garden  Roses 

One  of  the  most  distinct  and  wholesome  effects  of 
the  spread  of  garden  knowledge  and  love  of  flowers 
that  has  filled  the  land  of  late  years  is  the  demand  for 
good  garden  Roses.  By  the  term  "garden  Roses," 
is  meant  Roses  for  ordinary  garden  use,  though  the 
word  has  a  more  exclusive  use  in  the  schedules  of 
Rose  Societies,  where  it  means  any  Roses  other  than 
those  that  are  classed  as  show  kinds.  In  this  case 
the  more  rigid  distinction  is  of  use,  though  in  the 
garden  it  does  not  concern  us  in  the  least,  for  it 
naturally  happens  that  a  grand  show  Rose  is  often 
a  grand  garden  Rose  also. 

But  in  the  usual  jargon  of  horticulture  the  word 
"garden  Rose"  makes  one  first  think  of  Damask 
and  Provence  or  Cabbage  Roses,  of  Moss  Roses, 
of  Sweet  Brier  and  Scotch  Brier,  of  Cinnamon  Rose 
and  Rosa  lucida,  of  China  Rose,  and  of  the  old  climb- 
ing cluster  kinds ;  in  short,  of  all  the  older  favourites 
that  will  grow  readily  in  any  garden  in  answer  to 
reasonable  care  and  preparation. 


D.    H.    HILL    LIBRARY, 
North  Carolina  State  Colteg§ 


4        ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

It  is  only  of  late  years,  since  an  increased  recogni- 
tion of  the  delights  of  the  garden  has  spread  anew 
throughout  Britain,  and  is  rapidly  extending  through 
her  colonies,  that  any  notable  additions  have  been 
made  to  the  garden  Roses.  But  our  best  Rose 
growers  have  not  been  slow  to  perceive  how  gladly 
their  good  new  garden  Roses  have  been  welcomed  ; 
the  success  of  these  has  encouraged  further  effort, 
and  whereas  a  few  years  ago  lists  of  new  Roses  were 
mostly  attractive  to  specialists,  and  consisted  almost 
exclusively  of  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Teas,  the  new 
Rose  lists  of  to-day  include  kinds  that  appeal  to  every 
one  who  loves  a  garden. 

The  reason  for  the  older  limitation  may  be  easily 
understood,  for  whereas  success  in  growing  the  show 
Roses  depends,  to  begin  with,  either  on  the  possession 
of  a  good  Rose  soil,  or  on  those  qualifications  of 
knowledge,  determination,  and  command  of  money 
that  can  create  one  where  it  does  not  exist,  the  wants 
of  the  free  and  "garden"  Roses  are  so  comparatively 
modest,  they  are  so  accommodating  and  so  little  fastidi- 
ous, that  with  very  moderate  preparation  and  encour- 
agement they  can  be  made  to  succeed  in  much  poorer 
soils.  Then  it  is  but  few  that  aspire  to  the  honours 
of  the  show  table,  while  nearly  every  one  who  is 
master  of  a  rood  of  land  now  desires  to  enjoy  it  as 
a  garden. 

So  it  has  come  about  that  one  after  another,  more 
and  more  garden  Roses  have  come  into  use  and 
have  come  into  being.  One  of  the  first  of  the  out- 
siders to   be    adopted  as    a    garden    Rose  was    the 


'£■•§&• 


NEW   GARDEN   ROSES  5 

Himalayan  R.  Brunoni  or  moschata,  with  its  rambling 
habit,  its  pale  bluish  leaves,  and  its  clusters  of  milk- 
white  bloom.  Then  we  took  up  the  type  Rosa  multi- 
flora  or  polyantha,  with  its  vigorous  growth  and  its 
multitudes  of  Bramble-like  sweet-scented  flowers. 
Then  Turner's  Crimson  Rambler,  a  plant  of  Japanese 
origin,  closely  related  to  R.  multiflora,  took  the  garden 
world  by  storm,  for  its  easy  cultivation,  great  speed 
of  growth,  and  its  masses  of  showy  crimson  bloom. 
Those  of  us  whose  eyes  are  trained  to  niceties  of 
colour-discrimination  wish  that  the  tint  of  this  fine 
flower  had  been  just  a  shade  different.  Brilliant  it 
undoubtedly  is,  and  its  noonday  brightness  gives 
pleasure  to  a  great  number  of  people  ;  but  if  it  had 
had  just  a  little  less  of  that  rank  quality  that  it  possesses 
slightly  in  excess,  it  would  have  been  a  still  more 
precious  thing  in  our  gardens.  The  time  to  see  it 
in  perfection  is  when  the  sun  is  nearing  the  horizon, 
and  when  the  yellow  light,  neutralising  the  purplish 
taint,  gives  the  flowers  of  the  Rambler  just  the  quality 
that  they  unfortunately  lack ;  then  and  then  only  they 
show  the  glorious  red  that  the  critical  colour-eye 
demands,  while  at  the  same  time  their  brilliancy  is 
intensified. 

From  the  type  multiflora  and  some  of  its  hybrids 
as  parents  on  one  side  have  arisen  a  range  of  garden 
Roses  of  inestimable  value,  most  of  them  of  rambling 
habit,  comprising  the  rose-coloured  Dawson,  the 
charming  pink  Euphrosyne,  the  white  Thalia  and 
the  yellow  Aglaia,  followed  by  Leuchtstern,  a  charm- 
ing   pillar    Rose    with    pink,    red-tinted,   white-eyed 


6        ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

flowers,  Waltham  Rambler  and  Eleanor  Berkeley, 
and  Psyche,  rosy-pink  slightly  tinted  yellow.  From 
the  same  source  on  one  side  there  are  also  Lion  and 
Wallflower,  crimsons,  and  Electra,  canary-yellow  ;  so 
that  from  R.  multiflora  we  have  already  all  the  best 
colourings  of  which  Roses  are  capable,  while  we  may 
confidently  expect  many  other  pretty  things. 

The  name  polyantha  for  this  Rose  is  as  often  given 
as  multiflora.  It  seems  needless  that  the  two  forms 
of  the  specific  name  should  be  almost  equally  in  use, 
the  more  so  that  they  mean  exactly  the  same  thing, 
polyantha  being  the  Greek  and  multiflora  the  Latin 
for  "  many-flowered."  Another  thing  is  puzzling  to 
the  amateur,  that  the  name  polyantha  is  also  used  for 
the  class  of  quite  dwarf  Roses,  such  as  Paquerette, 
Mignonette,  &c.  It  would  seem  more  sensible  to 
keep  the  two  classes  quite  apart  and  to  use  the  name 
polyantha  or  multiflora  only  for  the  rambling  kinds 
that  retain  the  free-growing  character  of  the  type, 
and  to  have  for  the  smaller  bushy  kinds  some  simple 
name  that  has  no  pretension  to  the  character  of  a 
botanical  specific  name.  A  botanical  name  is  in 
any  case  wrongly  used  for  any  class  of  garden  flower 
that  is  a  hybrid  or  a  still  later  cross,  and  that  no- 
where in  nature  exists  in  a  single  state.  These  smah 
so-called  polyantha  Roses  should  be  simply  called 
Pompon  Roses,  then  there  would  be  no  puzzle  or 
ambiguity,  and  every  one  would  know  what  was  meant, 
whereas  if  Roses  fifteen  inches  and  fifteen  feet  high 
are  both  classed  as  polyantha,  unless  the  popular  name 
of  each  kind  is  known,  there  is  sure  to  be  confusion. 


NEW   GARDEN    ROSES  7 

These  pretty  dwarf  Cluster  Roses  are  not  nearly 
enough  used.  They  have  an  innocent,  childlike 
charm  of  their  own,  quite  distinct  from  the  more 
grown  -  up  attractiveness  of  their  larger  brethren — 
one  thinks  of  such  a  little  bush  as  Paquerette  as 
in  place  in  a  child's  garden  or  on  a  child's  grave. 
They  have  their  uses,  too,  in  the  Rose  garden,  in  any 
small,  dainty  spaces,  as  at  the  foot  of  a  platform  on 
which  a  sundial  rests ;  at  some  point  where  some 
small  beautiful  thing  could  be  seen  on  a  level  with 
the  eye ;  in  small  beds  by  themselves,  or  as  an 
edging  to  Roses  of  slightly  larger  growth. 

The  Himalayan  free  Roses  have  been  mentioned 
first  because  it  is  from  them,  and  from  multiflora 
especially,  that  the  most  important  of  our  newer 
garden  Roses  of  the  rambling,  cluster-blooming 
kinds  have  been  derived.  But  before  coming  to 
some  of  the  older  garden  Roses,  mention  must  be 
made  of  the  Japanese  R.  wichuriana  and  its  hybrids. 
This  species  has  introduced  to  our  gardens  Roses 
of  quite  an  unusual  way  of  growth.  They  grow 
fast  and  are  of  rambling  habit,  and  though  they 
may  be  trained  to  pillar  shape,  their  favourite  way 
is  to  trail  upon  the  ground,  downward  as  often 
as  not,  and  to  ramble  downhill  over  banks  and 
uneven  ground  ;  so  that  in  our  gardens  we  may 
now  have  quite  a  new  aspect  of  Rose  beauty.  They 
hybridise  freely,  and  already  we  have  many  beauti- 
ful flowers  twice  the  size  of  the  type,  more  free- 
blooming,  of  various  tender  colourings  and  charming 
fragrance.      A   well  -  devised    cross    with    Perle    des 


8        ROSES   FOR    ENGLISH    GARDENS 

far  dins  (T.)  has  given  us  two  lovely  Roses,  Jersey 
Beauty  and  Gardenia,  of  dainty  yellow  colouring; 
while  Evergreen  Gem,  whose  pollen  parent  was 
the  pale  yellow  Tea  Madame  Hoste,  is  quite  a 
large  flower  and  cleliciously  scented.  Many  a 
garden  has  uninteresting  turf  banks  between  two 
levels.  Here  is  one  of  the  most  obvious  places 
to  use  these  charming  Roses,  which  are  beautiful 
not  only  for  their  blossom,  but  for  the  close  growth 
of  their  neat  glossy  foliage. 

Another  Japanese  Rose,  R.  rugosa,  has  also  given 
some  valuable  varieties  and  hybrids.  The  beautiful 
white  Blanc  double  de  Coubert — whitest  Rose  of 
any  known  —  has  for  purity  of  colour  eclipsed  the 
older,  duller  white  Madame  Georges  Bruant,  though 
this  is  still  indispensable.  Blanc  double  de  Coubert 
is  one  of  the  best  of  Roses,  for  it  blooms  the  whole 
summer  through  and  well  into  autumn.  Its  rich, 
deep  green  foliage,  highly  polished  though  heavily 
reticulated,  persisting  till  late  in  the  year,  gives  it 
that  look  of  perfect  health  and  vigour  that  the  leaf- 
age of  so  many  Roses  lacks  in  the  later  summer.  The 
danger  in  rugosa  hybrids  is  the  tendency  towards  a 
strong  magenta  colouring,  such  as  is  suggested  by 
the  type.  But  in  some  of  the  seedlings  a  judicious 
choice  of  pollen  parent  has  amply  corrected  this, 
as  in  the  charming  salmon-pink  Conrad  F.  Meyer. 
This,  with  the  white  Scheelicht  and  the  pretty  white 
Fimbriate,  are  among  the  most  charming  of  the 
rugosa  varieties. 

The  great   hardiness  of   the  rugosas  enables  them 


ROSA  BKUNONI:   WHITE. 


NEW   GARDEN   ROSES  9 

to  be  used  in  exposed  places  where  many  kinds 
of  Roses  would  be  crippled  or  would  perish.  Their 
strong,  bushy  growth  and  somewhat  ferocious  arma- 
ture of  prickles  fits  them  above  all  other  Roses  for 
use  as  hedges,  and  not  hedges  of  ornament  only,  but 
effective  hedges  of  enclosure  and  defence. 

Among  the  recent  garden  Roses  of  great  merit  is 
the  beautiful  hybrid  Tea  Dawn,  also  Rosa  sinica 
Anemone,  a  little  tender,  but  lovely  against  a  wall ; 
while  every  year  is  adding  to  our  garden  Roses  of 
the  loose,  half-double  Tea  class  such  good  things 
as  Sulphurea  and  Corallina,  whose  names  denote 
their  colourings. 

Several  beautiful  species,  formerly  in  botanical 
collections  only,  have  also  been  brought  into  use, 
while  others  have  been  introduced.  Among  these 
are  R.  altaica,  described  in  the  chapter  on  Brier 
Roses.  Then  we  have  R.  macrantha,  with  large 
pink  blooms,  and  Andersoni,  also  with  pink  flowers ; 
they  both  make  handsome,  rather  large,  bushes. 
Others  of  the  good  wild  Roses  are  dealt  with  in  the 
chapter  on  Species  as  Garden  Roses. 

The  work  of  the  late  Lord  Penzance  among  the 
Sweet  Briers  has  given  us  a  whole  range  of  garden 
Roses  of  inestimable  value.  He  sought  to  give  colour 
and  size  by  means  of  the  pollen  parent,  and  so  ob- 
tained strong  as  well  as  tender  colouring  and  also 
increased  size,  while  retaining  the  scented  leaf  and 
the  free  character  of  growth.  It  seems  as  though 
this  eminent  lawyer,  who  in  some  of  the  years  of 
his  mature  practice  had  to  put  the  law  in  effect  in 


io      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

decreeing  the  separation  of  unhappy  human  couples, 
had  sought  mental  refreshment  in  the  leisure  of  his 
latest  days  by  devoting  it  to  the  happy  marriages  of 
Roses.  Though  his  name  will  ever  stand  high  in  the 
records  of  legal  practice,  it  is  doubtful  whether  in 
years  to  come  it  will  not  be  even  more  widely  known 
in  connection  with  the  Roses  he  has  left  us,  the  fruits 
of  the  recreation  of  his  last  years  of  failing  strength. 

New  Garden  Roses 
R.  Brunoni — type,  single,  milk-white,  in  clusters. 

Double  var.  ,,  „ 

R.  multiflora,  syn.  polyantha — single,  white,  in  large  clusters. 
Double  „  „  „ 

Large  flowered,  single  „  „ 

Hybrids — 

Crimson  Rambler;  crimson. 

Euphrosyne;  pink. 

Thalia;  white. 

Dawson ;  rose. 

Psyche ;  pink,  salmon-yellow  centre. 

Aglaia ;  yellow-pink. 

Eleanor  Berkeley ;  pale  pink. 

Leuchtstern  ;  white  and  pink. 

Waltham  Rambler;  white  and  pink. 

Electra ;  canary-yellow. 

Claire  Jacquier ;  buff-yellow. 

Queen  Alexandra ;  deep  rose-pink,  pale  centre. 

Lion  ;  single  crimson. 

Wallflower;  rosy  crimson. 
Pompon  Roses— 

Paquerette;  white. 

Anne  Marie  de  Montravel ;  white. 

Bouquet  parfait ;  light  and  full  rose. 

Eugenie  Lamesch  ;  orange,  rose-tinted. 


***. 


THALIA    [WHITE  RAM3LER). 


?S  .- 


^ 


1 


SULPHUREA.  TYPE  OF  THE  NEW  LOOSE  TEA  ROSES 
OF  BEAUTIFUL  COLOURING. 


COHALLINA,  ONE  OF  THE  NEW  LOOSE  TEAS. 


NEW   GARDEN   ROSES  i 

Leonie  Lamesch ;  copper-red,  yellow  centre. 

Clothilde  Soupert ;  rose. 

Georges  Pernet ;  rose. 

Gloire  des  Polyantha ;  rose  and  white. 

Mignonette;  pale  pink. 

Mosella ;  white  and  yellow. 

Archduchess  Elizabeth  Marie ;  pale  yellow. 

Clothilde  Pfitzer ;  white. 
R.  wichuriana — single,  white. 
Hybrids — 

Gardenia ;  yellow-white. 

Jersey  Beauty  ;  single,  pale  yellow. 

Alberic  Barbier ;  cream-white. 

Manda's  Triumph  ;  double,  white. 
R.  rugosa — Vars.  and  Hybrids. 

Single,  white. 

Blanc  double  de  Coubert ;  pure  white,  double. 

Madame  Georges  Bruant ;  warm-white. 

Fimbriata ;  white. 

Mercedes  ;  rose  and  white. 

Souvenir  de  Philemon  Cochet;  white,  pink  to  centre. 

Rose  Apples ;  pink. 
Sweet  Brier  (R.  rubiginosd) — 

Common,  pink. 

Double,  red. 

Janet's  Pride  ;  half-double,  striped. 
Penzance  Hybrids  of  Sweet  Brier,  Selection — 

Green  Mantle  ;  pink. 

Anne  of  Geierstein  \  rose. 

Rose  Bradwardine ;  rose. 

Meg  Merrilees ;  rose. 

Lady  Penzance;  copper. 
Various — 

Rosa  sinica  Anemone ;  pink  (tender). 

R.  moschata  nivea  ;  white. 
Others  in  the  chapter  on  Species  as  Garden  Roses,  p.  28. 


CHAPTER    II 

GARDEN    ROSES    NEW   AND    OLD 

Old  Garden  Roses 

The  first  Rose  that  comes  to  mind  among  the  old 
favourites  is  the  Cabbage  or  Provence  (R.  centifolia). 
No  Rose  surpasses  it  in  excellence  of  scent ;  it  stands 
alone  as  the  sweetest  of  all  its  kind,  as  the  type  of  the 
true  Rose  smell.  The  Moss  Rose  is  a  variety  of  the 
Cabbage  Rose,  with  a  mossy  calyx  having  its  own 
delicious  scent,  of  a  more  aromatic  or  cordial  char- 
acter. They  are  so  well  known  that  one  need  say 
no  more  than  that  they  should  never  be  neglected  or 
forgotten. 

There  are  several  dwarf  Roses — dwarf  not  in  the 
nurseryman's  sense,  which  only  means  a  Rose  that  is 
not  a  standard — but  actually  dwarf  in  stature  and 
correspondingly  small  in  all  their  parts,  that  are 
derived  from  the  Provence  Rose.  These  are  the 
neat  little  De  Meaux  and  the  still  prettier  Spong,  and 
the  charming  Moss  de  Meaux,  and  their  white 
varieties. 

Of  the  old  Provins  Roses  (R.  gallicd)  there  are  a 
number  of  catalogued  varieties.  They  are  mostly 
striped  or  splashed  with  rosy  and  purplish  colour. 
I  have  grown  them  nearly  all,  but  though  certainly 


OLD   GARDEN   ROSES  13 

pretty  things,  they  are  of  less  value  in  the  garden 
than  the  striped  Damask  Rosa  Mundi.  But  there  is 
an  old  garden  Rose,  the  Blush  gallica,  much  more 
double,  and  that  grows  into  very  strong  bushes,  that 
is  a  good  Rose  for  all  gardens.  It  will  put  up 
with  any  treatment.  I  have  it  on  the  top  of  a  dry 
wall  where  it  tumbles  over  in  the  prettiest  way  and 
blooms  even  more  freely  than  the  bushes  on  the 
level. 

These  two  names,  Provence  and  Provins,  for  two 
classes  of  garden  Roses  of  the  same  kind  of  growth 
and  use,  are  so  much  alike  that  they  are  one  of  the 
puzzles  that  the  Rose  amateur  has  to  get  clear  in 
his  mind  in  the  earlier  stages  of  his  education. 
Provence  is  the  Cabbage  Rose  (R.  centifolid) ;  Provins 
is  Rosa  gallica,  the  garden  kinds  being  mostly  striped ; 
pretty,  but  not  of  the  first  importance  ;  the  best  as 
far  as  my  own  knowledge  and  judgment  go  being 
Reine  Blanche  (if  it  be  a  true  gallica)  and  the  full 
double  Blush  gallica. 

Near  the  Provence  Rose,  in  sentiment  as  well  as  in 
a  sort  of  natural  garden  classification,  comes  the 
Damask,  charming  also  with  its  delicious  though 
fainter  scent  and  its  wide-open  crimson  flowers. 
The  Damask  Rose,  with  some  of  the  older  Gallicas, 
may  be  considered  the  ancestors  of  many  of  our 
modern  Roses,  and  though  there  is  no  record  of 
the  earlier  pedigrees,  those  who  are  old  enough  to 
remember  some  of  the  first  Hybrid  Perpetuals  will 
retain  the  recollection  of  some  Roses  such  as  Lee's 
Perpetual  in  which  such  parentage,  probably  passing 


i4      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

through  a  Portland  Rose,  of  which  group  there  are 
a  few  named  kinds,  is  fairly  traceable.  The  parti- 
coloured form  is  a  charming  bush  Rose  that  should 
be  much  more  used ;  it  is  known  by  the  names 
Rosa  Mundi,  Cottage  Maid,  and  York  and  Lancaster. 
The  latter  name  is  also  claimed  for  another  striped 
Rose  of  much  less  value,  but  the  name  is  so  pretty 
and  the  Rose  so  charming  that  most  of  us  think 
they  ought  to  belong  to  each  other,  and  that  there 
is  at  least  no  harm  in  their  association  for  gene- 
ral use. 

The  newly  found  but  really  old  garden  Rose  now 
called  Hebe's  Lip,  otherwise  Reine  Blanche,  seems  to 
belong  to  the  Provins  group  {gallica).  There  were 
formerly  in  old  gardens  some  very  dark-coloured 
Damask  Roses  called  Velvet  Roses,  that  are  either 
lost  or  have  become  rare,  as  they  are  now  seldom 
seen. 

An  old  Rose  that  used  to  be  in  nearly  every  garden 
and  is  now  but  rarely  seen  is  the  Cinnamon  Rose 
(R.  cinnamomed),  in  some  parts  of  the  southern 
counties  called  the  Whitsuntide  Rose.  The  small 
flat  flowers  are  pretty  and  have  a  distinct  scent.  It 
makes  a  neat  bush  of  rather  upright  habit.  An 
equally  old  garden  Rose  is  R.  lucida,  an  American 
species.  It  is  fairly  common  in  old  gardens,  forming 
rounded  bushes,  and  will  grow  anywhere  even  in  the 
poorest  soils,  where  the  autumn  tinted  foliage,  bright 
yellow  and  crimson,  and  the  quantities  of  flat-shaped 
scarlet  hips  are  very  ornamental.  The  flower  is 
single  and  of   a  full   pink  colour.     It  seems  to  like 


OLD   GARDEN   ROSES  15 

slight  shade,  as  it  shrivels  in  full  sun.  There  is  a 
strong  growing  garden  variety,  much  more  free  in 
habit  than  the  type,  but  it  does  not  make  such  neat 
bushes.  It  is  remarkable  that  a  Rose  so  well  known 
should  have  no  English  name.  The  double  form 
that  has  been  long  in  English  gardens,  but  has  never 
become  common,  and  whose  merit  is  only  now  be- 
coming recognised,  is  one  of  the  loveliest  of  bush 
Roses.  It  has  the  pretty  old  name  Rose  d'Amour. 
How  this  Rose  of  American  origin  first  came  to  be 
a  plant  of  old  English  gardens  is  a  question  that  I 
must  leave  to  be  answered  by  the  botanist-antiquary  ; 
what  chiefly  concerns  us  is  that  it  is  one  of  the  most 
delightful  things  in  the  garden. 

The  Scotch  Briers  are  considered  in  the  chapter 
on  Brier  Roses,  and  the  newer  Sweet  Briers  in  that 
of  New  Garden  Roses,  though  the  old  pink  single 
Sweet  Brier  is,  of  course,  in  place  here.  Many  are  the 
ways  in  which  it  can  be  used.  Planted  in  a  double 
row  and  judiciously  pruned,  it  makes  a  capital  and 
most  fragrant  hedge  from  four  to  six  feet  high  ;  but 
it  is  perhaps  prettiest  planted  among  shrubs,  with  its 
graceful  arching  stems  shooting  up  through  them,  or 
in  bushy  brakes  either  by  itself  or  among  Thorn 
bushes  in  one  of  the  regions  where  the  garden  joins 
wilder  ground.  It  will  also  assume  quite  a  climbing 
habit  if  it  is  led  into  some  tree  like  a  Holly,  or 
encouraged  to  scramble  through  straggling  Black 
or  White  Thorn  of  tallish  growth  in  some  old  hedge. 

Important  among  the  old  garden  Roses  is  R.  alba. 
Though  it  is  allowed  to  bear  a  botanical  name,  it  is 


1 6      ROSES   FOR    ENGLISH    GARDENS 

not  thought  to  be  a  species,  but  is  considered  a  cross 
between  canina  and  gallica.  This  capital  Rose  is 
often  seen  in  cottage  gardens,  where  it  is  a  great 
favourite.  The  double  white  form  is  the  most  fre- 
quent, but  the  delicate  pink  Maiden's  Blush  is  a 
better  flower.  Lovelier  still  is  the  less  double  Celeste, 
a  Rose  of  wonderful  beauty  when  the  bud  is  half 
opened.  When  once  known  the  albas  may  be  recog- 
nised, even  out  of  flower,  by  the  bluish  colouring  and 
general  look  of  the  very  broad  leafleted  leaves.  The 
blue  colouring  is  accentuated  in  Celeste,  and  is  a 
charming  accompaniment  to  the  rosy  tinting  of  the 
heart  of  the  opening  flower.  The  albas,  as  well  as 
others  of  the  garden  Roses,  make  admirable  standards, 
their  hardiness  and  strong  constitution  enabling  them 
to  be  grown  into  quite  large-headed  bushes.  It  is 
no  uncommon  thing  to  see  standards  with  heads  a 
yard  through  in  the  gardens  of  cottagers,  who  also 
grow  some  of  the  Ayrshires  in  this  way. 

Rosa  alpina  has  given  us  the  class  of  free-growing 
Roses  known  as  Boursault.  Of  late  years  so  many 
more  and  better  climbing  kinds  have  been  raised, 
that  the  Boursaults  will  probably  be  less  and  less 
used,  especially  as  the  crimson  varieties  of  the 
Amadis  type  have  a  rather  unpleasant  colour.  One 
of  this  race,  the  Blush  Boursault,  would  be  worthy 
of  a  place  in  every  garden  if  it  were  not  that  the 
flowers  are  seldom  perfect.  Every  now  and  then 
there  is  a  good  one,  and  then  it  is  the  loveliest  thing 
in  the  garden,  with  its  almost  matchless  tinting  of 
tender  milk-white  deepening  to  a  wonderfully  pure 


OLD   GARDEN    ROSES  17 

rose  colour  in  the  centre.  Of  the  others,  Morletti, 
of  rather  deep  pink  colouring,  is  the  best.  The 
alpinas  may  be  known  by  their  smooth  red-barked 
stems,  the  mature  ones  being  without  prickles.  R. 
riibrifolia,  with  pale  pink  flowers,  red  stems  and  red 
foliage,  is  also  an  alpina.  In  fruit  they  are  conspi- 
cuous because  of  their  long-shaped  hips. 

The  field  Rose  {R.  arvensis),  one  of  the  two  of  our 
commonest  native  hedge  Roses  (the  one  with  the 
white,  rather  clustered  flowers),  has  some  good  garden 
varieties.  One  with  large  single  flowers  and  strong 
rambling  habit  is  an  old  favourite  of  mine,  and 
another,  half  double,  is  equally  good  and  still  more 
free  of  bloom. 

The  Banksian  Roses  (natives  of  China)  are  a  little 
tender  in  England,  and  are  thankful  for  a  place  on 
a  warm  wall ;  just  such  a  place  as  also  suits  the 
Persian  Briers.  The  double  yellow  is  the  best  for 
growing  in  England,  and  lovely  it  is,  with  its  rich 
clusters  of  tiny  butter-coloured  bloom.  In  many 
gardens  it  is  a  failure,  absolutely  refusing  to  flower, 
but  often  does  well  on  chalk  soils. 

The  old  Pink  China  Rose  is  always  welcome,  with 
its  pretty  clear  pink  colouring,  its  dainty  scent  and 
neat  foliage.  It  makes  compact,  low  hedges,  but  I 
like  it  best  grown  with  Rosemary  bushes.  They  look 
just  right  together  and  seem  to  enjoy  each  other's 
company.  I  like  to  plant  them  in  some  place  at  the 
foot  of  a  rather  warm  wall  and  to  train  some  of  the 
Rosemary  to  run  right  up  the  wall,  with  other  Rose- 
mary bushes  free   of  it  in  front,  and  to  have   it  in 

B 


1 8      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

plenty,  and  the  China  Roses  sometimes  in  groups 
of  three  or  four,  sometimes  singly  and*  some  also 
trained  up  the  wall  among  and  between  the  Rose- 
mary bushes. 

The  crimson  China,  Cramoisi  SupeYieur,  has  long 
been  with  us,  and  also  the  climbing  variety;  both 
capital  Roses  in  their  places.  There  are  one  or  two 
others  of  intermediate  colouring.  But  of  the  old 
Chinas  (garden  varieties,  not  hybrids)  the  pink  and 
the  Cramoisi  are  the  best. 

The  beautiful  Fortune's  Yellow  has  been  with  us 
long  enough  to  take  its  place  among  the  older  garden 
Roses.  It  is  also  from  China  and  tender,  liking  a 
hot  wall ;  but  I  have  observed  that  it  also  likes  to  be 
led  through  some  other  thin  wall  shrub  that  will 
protect  the  leaves  in  May  when  the  late  frosts  come  ; 
this  seems  to  prevent  that  falling  of  the  leaves  in  May 
which  so  often  happens  to  the  unprotected  shoots. 
But  it  is  a  Rose  that  cannot  always  be  trusted  to 
bloom  well.  We  have  to  consider  it  a  capricious 
flower.  Sometimes  it  is  loaded  with  its  glorious 
loose  copper-coloured  bloom,  and  sometimes  it  is 
almost  bare.  We  have  to  remember  that  it  is  from 
a  climate  very  different  from  our  own,  and  that  we 
cannot  expect  to  have  it  in  such  complete  control  as 
we  may  be  fairly  sure  of  assuming  in  the  case  of 
hardier  Roses ;  so  that  when  it  does  do  well  we  must 
be  all  the  more  thankful. 

Coupe  d'Hebe,  a  pretty  and  sweet  Rose  of  a  good 
full  pink  colour,  is  of  uncertain  origin  ;  it  makes  a 
capital  pillar   Rose.     There  are  also  some  old  Roses 


■ 
,,■■■■'■       ft '      "•*"  <  ■■ 

*■/  ■"'    •  -      'i^ff '       <•     ,/^J' 

•r. 

'  ■■,.:%  ■■-■    :               ^%Sm 

J 

R^    ',       a       '^'         v    i ■   €V 

*  -          -  •--          *J  J 

THE  LARGE-FLOWERED  BANKSIAN  ROSE  IN  A  SOUTHERN  GARDEN. 


A  VRSIIIRE  ROSES  IN  A  KITCHEN  GARDEN. 


A   PILLAR  ROSE  NEAR   WOODLAND, 
CLUSTER  ROSE,  BENNETTS  SEEDLING. 


OLD  GARDEN   ROSES  19 

of  free  growth  of  which  Lady  Emily  Peel  and  Emilie 
Planner  are  good  representatives.  Both  are  of  tender 
colouring  and  have  an  interesting,  old-world  ap- 
pearance ;  they  bloom  in  loose  bunches — not  short- 
stalked  enough  to  call  clusters — but  of  admirable 
freedom  for  cutting  in  long  branches  and  arranging 
in  water. 

Some  of  the  Best  Old  Garden  Roses. 

Cabbage  or  Provence  Roses  (R.  centifolia). 
Other  varieties. 

Moss  Roses  (R.  centifolia  muscosa) — 
Common  Pink. 
Other  varieties. 

Pompons  of  the  centifolia  class — 

De  Meaux ;  pink,  and  white  variety. 

Moss  de  Meaux ;  pink. 

Spong;  pink. 

Burgundy ;  pink,  and  white  variety. 

Provins  Roses  (R.  gallicd) — 

Mecene ;  white  and  rose  striped. 
Perle  des  Panachees  ;  white,  striped  lilac-rose. 
Gros  Provins  Panache ;  red  and  white  striped. 
Other  varieties. 

Damask  (R.  damascena) — 
Common  Red. 
Cottage   Maid,  Rosa   Mundi,  or  York  and   Lancaster; 

red  and  white. 
One  or  two  other  varieties. 

Cinnamon  Rose  (R.  cinnamomea) ;  pink. 


20      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

R.  lucida;  rose. 

Rose  d'Amour,  its  double  variety. 
Scotch  Briers,  including  the  type  Burnet  Rose  (R.  spinosis- 
sima),  and  the  double  kinds  in  several  colourings. 

Sweet-brier,  the  old  single  pink. 

The  White  Rose  (R.  alba)— 
Double  White. 
Maiden's  Blush ;  blush. 
Celeste ;  blush. 

Boursault  (R.  alpina) — 

Several  varieties,  the  best  being — 

Morletti;  rose. 

Blush  Boursault ;  blush  white,  clear  rose  to  centre. 

Field  Rose  (R.  arvensis) ;  white. 

Single  and  half-double  garden  kinds. 

Banksian  Rose  (R.  Banksice) — 

Double  Yellow ;  the  best,  nankeen  yellow. 

China  Rose  (R.  indica) — 
Common  Pink. 
Cramoisi    Superieur    and    its    climbing    variety ;    deep 

crimson. 
Other  varieties. 

Fortune's  Yellow  (R.  Fortune'i) ;  tender,  orange  and  copper. 

Miscellaneous — 

Coupe  d'Hebe ;  pink  pillar  rose. 

Madame  Plantier ;  white,  large  bush  or  pillar. 

Emilie  Plantier ;  free,  pink  white. 

Lady  Emily  Peel ;  free,  warm  white. 

There  are  other  varieties  in  this  class. 

Portland  Roses — 

Rose  du  Roi  and  others ;  rose  and  red. 


THE  GARLAND  ROSE. 


OLD   GARDEN    ROSES  21 

Climbing  Cluster  Roses;  known  as  Ayrshire,  Hybrids  of 
sempervirens,  Musk,  &c. 
Dundee  Rambler ;  warm  white. 
Garland;  warm  white. 
Bennett's  Seedling ;  white. 
Ruga;  flesh. 

Felicite-Perpetue ;  cream  white. 
Flora;  pink. 
Splendens ;  warm  white. 
Queen  of  the  Belgians  ;  white. 
Some  others. 


CHAPTER    III 

THE    BRIER    ROSES 

Roses  of  one  sort  or  another  are  with  us  in  the  open 
garden  for  five  months  out  of  the  twelve,  namely  from 
the  end  of  May  to  well  on  in  October. 

One  of  the  first  to  bloom  in  an  ordinary  garden 
collection  is  likely  to  be  Rosa  altaica,  the  close  fore- 
runner of  its  near  relations  the  Scotch  Briers.  Though 
it  is  a  native  of  a  far  distant  mountain  range  of  Central 
Asia,  it  is  almost  identical  in  appearance  with  our  native 
Burnet  Rose  (R.  spinosissima).  It  blooms  some  ten 
days  earlier  and  the  flowers  are  a  shade  larger  and  the 
whole  plant  rather  more  free  of  growth,  but  there  is 
the  same  bloom  of  tender  lemon  white,  the  same 
typical  brier  foliage  and  the  same  showy  black  hips. 
It  is  a  capital  garden  plant,  and  takes  its  place  naturally 
with  the  hardy  Briers. 

By  the  first  week  of  June  the  Scotch  Briers  are  in 
flower,  in  all  their  pretty  colourings  of  pink  and  rose 
and  pale  yellow,  besides  the  strongest  growing  of  all, 
the  double  white.  Those  who  are  interested  in  this 
class  of  Rose  should  inquire  in  the  good  old  Scotch 
gardens,  where  no  doubt  fine  forms  still  exist  that  have 
not  come  into  trade.  One  of  the  best  and  quite  the 
sweetest  has  become  rare,  and  sometimes  cannot  be 
had  even  in  the  best  Rose  nurseries.     It  is  of  a  pale 


ROSA  ALTAIC  A. 


bLUJCll    lU\U:l\b. 


THE   BRIER   ROSES  23 

pink  colour,  and  is  conspicuous  among  other  kinds  for 
remaining  some  time  in  a  globular  or  half-opened 
shape.  The  leaves  are  of  a  bluish  tint,  and  the  scent  is 
stronger  and  sweeter  than  that  of  any  other. 

The  Scotch  Briers  are  excellent  plants  for  many 
kinds  of  use,  but  are  perhaps  best  of  all  in  wild  banks 
with  Heaths  and  Cistuses.  No  bushy  thing  is  better 
for  the  capping  of  a  dry  wall,  for  it  will  hang  over  and 
also  throw  out  runners  between  the  stones  and  show 
itself  off  quite  at  its  best.  These  fine  hardy  Briers 
have  also  one  merit  that  most  Roses  lack,  for  in  winter 
the  leafless  crowd  of  close-growing,  plentifully-prickled 
branches  forms  masses  of  warm  bronze  colouring  that 
have  quite  a  comforting  appearance.  The  pretty  Briers 
might  well  replace  the  dull  and  generally  ugly  steep 
slopes  of  turf  that  disfigure  so  many  gardens.  They 
are  charming  accompaniments  to  steps  and  their  low 
balustrades ;  they  are  equally  in  place  in  the  humblest 
garden  and  the  most  exalted,  and  in  all  sorts  and  kinds 
of  places  and  for  all  kinds  of  uses  they  hardly  ever 
come  amiss. 

They  are  also  distinctly  in  place  crowning  the  upper 
portions  of  bold  rockwork ;  in  fact  this  way  of  having 
them  is  one  of  the  very  best,  for  they  love  free  air 
and  unstinted  light,  and  their  neat  bushy  forms  and 
crowded  wreaths  of  bloom  are  never  seen  to  better 
advantage  than  when  viewed  a  little  from  below. 

The  Scotch  Briers  are  derived  from  the  native 
Burnet  Rose  (R.  spinosissima),  and  are  amongst  the 
hardiest  and  most  accommodating  of  their  race.  Even 
in  the  poorest  soils  they  will  grow  ffeely  if  only  they 


24      ROSES   FOR    ENGLISH    GARDENS 

are  given  a  little  nutritive  encouragement  in  their  first 
year;  after  that  they  take  care  of  themselves.  The 
Burnet  Rose  is  found  in  many  parts  of  England  and 
Scotland,  generally  in  heathy  places  not  very  far 
from  the  sea.  Among  its  many  merits  the  beauty  of 
its  large,  round,  black  hips  should  not  be  forgotten. 
These  are  like  exaggerated  black  currants,  only  more 
flattened  at  the  poles,  with  a  diameter  of  from  half  to 
three-quarters  of  an  inch. 

There  is  a  useful  Rose,  a  hybrid  of  these  Briers,  that 
should  be  grown  with  them,  called  Stanwell  Perpetual. 
It  fully  deserves  its  name,  as  it  flowers  throughout  the 
summer.  Its  weak  point  is  a  somewhat  straggly  habit. 
To  correct  this  it  is  well  to  place  three  plants  in  one 
group  close  together — that  is  to  say,  about  a  foot  apart — 
when  they  will  close  up  and  form  a  well-shaped  bush. 

We  are  apt  to  think  of  the  so-called  Austrian  Briers 
in  connection  with  the  Scotch,  but  it  should  be  remem- 
bered that  whereas  the  Scotch  Briers  are  among  the 
hardiest  of  our  Roses,  the  Austrians  are  rather  tender. 
The  name  Austrian  is  misleading,  for  they  are  of 
oriental  origin,  and  except  in  the  most  favoured 
climates  of  our  islands  should  be  in  the  warmest  and 
most  sheltered  places  we  can  find  for  them  ;  but  they 
are  so  beautiful  that  they  well  deserve  a  good  wall  space. 
They  are  in  three  or  perhaps  four  forms ;  the  single 
yellow  (Rosa  lutea),  and  its  double  form,  the  Persian 
yellow,  and  another  very  near  garden  variety  called 
Harrisoni.  Then  there  is  the  gorgeous  single  Austrian 
Copper,  whose  petals  are  yellow  outside  and  vermilion 
within. 


CHAPTER    IV 

POMPON     ROSES 

Some  mention  was  made  in  the  chapter  on  New 
Garden  Roses  of  the  confusion  arising  from  the  use 
of  the  name  poly  ant ka  for  the  free  rambling  kinds, 
and  also  for  some  of  the  dwarfest  growing  Roses 
that  we  have.  The  word  "  dwarf "  in  Rose  language 
has  already  been  rather  erroneously  assigned  to  Roses 
of  bush  form  to  distinguish  them  from  standards, 
whether  the  Rose  in  question  will  grow  twenty  feet 
or  only  two,  so  that  the  name  Dwarf  Roses  would 
be  confusing.  Sometimes  they  are  called  Miniature 
Roses,  but  Pompon  is  the  better  name.  It  is  a  French 
word  denoting  any  kind  of  upholstered  ornament  of 
a  roundish,  tufted  form.  The  name  has  been  ex- 
cellently applied  to  the  small  bloomed  Chrysanthe- 
mums, whose  flowers  are  about  an  inch  across,  and 
that  look  like  close  tufts  of  petals.  Just  what  Pompon 
Chrysanthemums  are  to  the  other  kinds,  so  are  the 
Pompon  Roses  to  their  larger  fellows.  The  most 
important  of  them  are  the  small  kinds  of  partly 
polyantha  or  multiflora  extraction,  with  the  close, 
bushy,  low-growing  habit  and  clustered  flowers. 

They  are  charming  plants  for  any  small  spaces. 
They  are  commonly  used  as  edgings  to  beds  of 
larger    Roses,   but    it   is   doubtful   whether  they   are 


26      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

not  best  by  themselves  in  small  beds ;  never  in  large 
beds,  for  here  the  sense  of  proportion  is  at  once 
offended.  But  in  a  Rose  garden,  for  instance,  whose 
main  form  would  be  a  long  parallelogram,  a  scheme 
of  some  little  beds  at  the  ends  for  the  Pompons  might 
be  designed  with  excellent  effect,  the  next  group  of 
beds  being  of  kinds  of  moderate  growth,  and  so  on 
to  the  larger  Roses  of  the  midmost  section.  Or,  in 
the  Rose  garden  scheme,  there  may  occur  some  very 
narrow  beds  or  borders  intended  to  show  only  as  a 
wide  line  or  single  ribbon  in  the  design.  Here  is  the 
place  for  the  Pompons,  and  many  a  little  nook  in  the 
free  garden,  and  above  all  in  the  rock-garden,  where 
they  are  admirable. 

The  little  Roses  de  Meaux,  Spong,  and  Moss  de 
Meaux  will  serve  the  same  use,  also  the  small  China 
Cramoisi  Superieur,  and  the  tiny  representatives  of 
the  same  family  known  as  lawrenceana. 

There  is  also  the  very  charming  little  Fairy  Rose, 
rarely  seen  and  of  doubtful  origin,  but  perhaps  the 
loveliest  little  Rose,  both  for  its  tender  colour  and  for 
its  supreme  daintiness,  that  could  well  be  imagined. 

Some  of  the  best  Pompons  of  the  multifiora  section — 
Amelie  Susanne  Morin  ;  white,  flushed  yellowish. 
Anne  Marie  de  Montravel ;  white. 
Archduchess  Elizabeth  Marie;  canary,  buff  and  white  to 

centre. 
Bouquet  parfait ;  rose,  darker  edges. 
Camille  de  Rochetaille ;  white. 
Clara  Pfitzer  ;  silvery  white,  shaded  rose. 
Clothilde  Soupert ;  rose  and  red. 


* 

'*f'\9* 

'  ^H  Hr^ 

>*£/ 

4 

y?" ' : 

M 

r  , 

rj 

■3?-  f£P' 

j 

Sk„  J 

pHHk         »*.  ■f**.-  j|  yj 

Jf 

w:i 

.  up 

r 

KHr 

El 

r^:; 

Bpi 

Sru^ifSK?^ 

T  * 

* 

^5  * 

.     "■■ 

Ij&* 

teWtJ,,        il 

POMPON   ROSES  27 

Colibri ;  copper-yellow,  shading  to  white. 

Etoile  d'Or ;  pale  yellow. 

Eugenie  Lamesch ;  buff  yellow. 

Georges  Pernet  j  rose,  peach  and  yellow. 

Gloire  des  Polyantha ;  rose  and  white. 

Ldonie  Lamesch  j  deep  copper-red,  yellow  centre. 

Mosella ;  white  and  yellow. 

Mignonette ;  pink. 

Perle  d'Or ;  buff  yellow. 

Other  Pompon  Roses — 

Dwarf  centifolia,  De  Meaux. 

Moss  de  Meaux. 

Spong. 

Lawrenceana  and  var.  Pompon  de  Paris. 

Fairy  Rose. 

White  Pet. 

Dwarf  Burgundy  and  white  var. 


CHAPTER   V 

SOME  OF  THE  ROSE  SPECIES  AS  GARDEN  ROSES 

It  is  obvious  that  our  garden  Roses  must  have  come 
originally  from  some  wild  kinds,  and  it  adds  immensely 
to  the  interest  of  our  gardens  to  know  something 
about  these  original  types  and  the  influence  they  have 
had  in  the  making  of  our  garden  Roses  ;  moreover 
some  of  the  actual  types  are  desirable  in  themselves. 
Like  other  classes  of  plants  that  are  prime  favourites, 
such  as  Daffodils  and  Irises,  some  prominent  types 
have  become  the  ancestors  of  a  host  of  hybrids  and 
garden  varieties,  and  a  close  acquaintance  with  the 
character  of  the  type  plant  will  often  give  a  very  fair 
idea  of  the  parentage  of  any  garden  Rose  whose 
pedigree  is  unrecorded. 

Though  Roses  have  been  for  many  hundred  years 
the  most  highly  prized  of  garden  flowers,  yet  their 
antiquity,  as  far  as  our  modern  gardens  are  concerned, 
cannot  be  compared,  for  instance,  to  that  of  wheat, 
whose  origin,  in  direct  association  with  any  one  wild 
grass,  has  never  yet  been  satisfactorily  determined. 
We  can  trace  the  descent  of  all  our  Roses,  within  a 
move  or  two,  from  their  wild  ancestry,  and,  by  the 
aid  of  the  eye  alone,  observe  relationships.  Botanical 
characters,  such  as  the  strongly  serrated  stipule  in 
multiflora,  are  a  sure  guide,  but  as  this  book  is  for 


r  ^ny^t^  <?wr man  «j^  .  yjJtSsI 

m 

ROSA  ALTAICA;  LEMON-WHITE,  2J  to  3  inches,  and  R.  TOMENTOSA 
WOODSIANA;  PALE  LILAC >  if  inches. 


SPECIES   AS   GARDEN   ROSES  29 

the  amateur,  and  deals  with  the  subject  from  the 
point  of  view  of  garden  observation  and  garden  enjoy- 
ment, it  is  well  to  acquire  the  more  rule-of-thumb,  if 
unscientific,  method  of  noting  the  visible  links.  Thus 
we  learn  when  we  see  a  hybrid  Rose  whose  leaves 
are  bluish  and  of  a  dull  surface,  wide  in  the  leaflet 
and  strongly  saw-edged,  to  at  once  suspect  the  influ- 
ence of  alba.  One  soon  gets  to  know  the  characteristic 
leaf  of  a  China,  and  the  habit  and  leaf  character  of  a 
centifolia  (Cabbage)  or  a  gallica.  The  leaf  of  rugosa, 
again,  cannot  be  mistaken,  and  is  strongly  shown  in 
its  descendants,  even  though  the  other  parent  was 
some  Rose  of  a  very  different  nature. 

There  are,  of  course,  a  great  many  species  of  Roses, 
and  numbers  of  them  are  only  plants  for  botanical 
collections.  Only  those  that  concern  the  garden  in  the 
type  form,  and  those  that  are  the  parents  of  garden 
varieties,  are  here  named  and  briefly  described. 

Rosa  acicularis. — A  Rose  with  bright  pink  bloom  and  glaucous 

foliage ;  a  native  of  Siberia ;  it  is  pretty  and  interesting, 

flowering  at  the  end  of  May. 
R.  alba. — Not  considered  a  real  species  though  the  name  is 

usually  admitted  in  botanical  classification.     Semi-double 

white,  with  handsome  bluish  leaves.     The  double  White 

Rose  of  cottage  gardens,  Maiden's  Blush  and  Celeste  are 

among  its  garden  varieties. 
R.  alpina. — A  native  of  Europe  and  parent  of  the  Boursault 

Roses.     The  mature  stems  are  red  and  without  prickles. 

The  bright  red  hips  are  very  long  in  shape. 
R.  altaica. — The  representative  of  our  native  Burnet  Rose 

(R.  spinosissima)  in  Northern  Central  Asia.     A  beautiful 

garden  bush  with  lemon-white  flowers. 


3o      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH    GARDENS 

R.  arvensis. — One  of  our  own  hedge  Roses  ;  a  large  single- 
bloomed  variety  of  extra  rambling  habit  and  some  half 

double  ones  are  good  garden  plants. 
R.  Banksice. — A  rambling  Chinese  Rose  without  prickles,  best 

known  in  England  by  the  double  yellow  form. 
R.  beggeriana. — From  Central  Asia ;  a  bush  with  small  glabrous 

leaves  and  small,  white,  unpleasant-smelling  flowers ;  an 

interesting  kind  though  not  showy. 
R.  blanda. — North  American.     Called  also  the  Hudson's  Bay 

or  Labrador  Rose;  a  good-sized  bush  with  large  pink 

flowers. 
R.  bracteata. — From  China.     The  Macartney  Rose,  with  large 

white  blooms  and  handsome  polished  leaves.     There  is 

also   a   double   variety  called  Marie   Leonide  which   is 

stronger  growing  than  the  type. 
R.   Carolina. — A  North   American  species,  not   of  the   first 

importance,  and  yet  of  some  value  in  that  it  blooms  in 

late  summer  and  autumn. 
R.  centifolia. — The  type  of  the  Cabbage  or  Provence  Roses, 

of  the  Moss  Roses  and  the  small  de  Meaux. 
R.  cinnamomea. — The  double  form  is  the  Cinnamon  Rose  of 

our  older  gardens.     The  flowers  are  rather  few,  pink  or 

pale  rose,  and  flattened. 
R.  dynophylla. — A  white-flowered  trailing  Rose  of  scrambling 

habit ;  scarcely  suitable  for  a  garden,  but  good  for  a  wild 

place. 
R.   damascena. — (Damask).     A   good    old   garden    Rose    of 

oriental   origin,   with   several   varieties,    red,    white   and 

striped. 
R.  Ecce. — A  tender  Rose  from  Abyssinia,  with  yellow  flowers 

the  size  of  a  shilling.     It  does  well  occasionally  in  the 

south  of  England. 
R.  gallica. — The  type  of  most  of  the  older  garden  Roses. 

This  and  the  Damask  Rose  are  no  doubt  the  ancestors 

of  the   modern    Hybrid   Perpetuals.     Pretty   bushes   in 

many  varieties. 


,••       '  VV- 

-J-  A-  u 

:'K 

%*M. 

i#! 

ft; 

hi 

"„''/'*'~i 

hi 

.   -W';-- 

h 

'Hjr.' 

ftj 

■    -      . 

hi 

' 

W 

hi 

O 

h! 

hi 

Kjfev' 

£; 

^"RSkt 

h 

hi 

^ 

B& 

>  M 

<     Lrl 


X    * 


HI 

a,'  ^ 


JN 


R.  CALOCARPA,  A   FORM  OF  R.  RUGOSA,  AND  R.  HUM  J  LIS  RUGOSA, 
BOTH  MAGENTA-PINK,  3£  inches. 


SPECIES   AS  GARDEN    ROSES  31 

R.  humilis. — A  white  Rose.  R.  humilis  rugosa  is  an  ex- 
cellent bush  garden  Rose  with  pink  flowers. 

R.  indica. — The  type  of  the  China  Rose,  but  there  are  other 
forms  of  R.  indica  that  are  apparently  the  types  of  some 
of  the  Teas. 

R.  lavigata. — A  native  of  China;  it  makes  a  good  pillar  or 
climbing  Rose  in  the  south  of  England,  though  it 
is  better  in  France.  It  has  shining  leaves  and  large 
white  flowers. 

R.  lucida. — A  well-known  garden  Rose  from  North  America, 
with  shining  leaves  and  rose-coloured  flowers.  It  grows 
into  bushy  masses.  The  double  variety,  though  not 
common,  is  very  beautiful. 

R.  lutea. — An  oriental  yellow  Brier,  the  origin  of  the  double 
Persian  yellow,  and  of  the  Austrian  Copper. 

R.  macrantha. — Single  large  rose  coloured  3  a  wild  hybrid  of 
canina  and  gallica. 

R.  macrophylla. — A  handsome,  tall  growing  Rose  with  many 
large,  full-pink  flowers.  It  makes  a  good  pillar  Rose  and 
deserves  to  be  more  generally  planted. 

R.  microphylla. — A  Chinese  Rose  with  buff-coloured  wood 
and  straight,  sharp,  gooseberry-like  prickles.  The  bud 
is  curious  from  the  prickly  calyx.  The  double  variety 
is  a  handsome  flat  flower,  light  pink,  with  crimson 
centre. 

R.  mollis pomifera. — The  Apple-bearing  Rose  of  older  gardens. 
The  foliage  is  soft  and  bluish,  the  flowers  pink  and  the 
hips  large  and  handsome. 

R.  moschata  =  R.  Brunoni. — A  rambling  Himalayan  Rose  of 
great  beauty,  bearing  a  quantity  of  clustered  white  bloom 
and  having  graceful  bluish  foliage.  Best  used  to  ramble 
through  trees  and  bushes. 

R.  multiflora  =  polyantha. — Of  eastern  Asiatic  origin.  It 
makes  large  bushy  brakes  by  itself  and  is  the  parent  of 
many  of  our  best  rambling  Roses. 


32      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

R.  omissa. — An  erect  bush  with  pink  flowers  and  grey,  softly 
pubescent  leaves.     A  pretty  and  interesting  Rose. 

R.  pisocarpa. — A  rather  straggling  Californian  bush,  flowering 
in  corymbs.  The  leaves  are  glabrous  and  the  flowers 
pink  or  red. 

R.  Pissardi. — A  handsome  Persian  Rose  with  white  bloom. 

R.  rubiginosa. — The  native  Sweet-brier.  In  the  type  form 
an  indispensable  Rose.  The  beautiful  Penzance  hybrids 
derived  from  it  should  be  in  every  garden. 

R.  rugosa. — The  Japanese  Ramanas  Rose.  One  of  the 
hardiest  of  Roses.  There  are  good  garden  forms  and 
hybrids.  The  hips  are  the  showiest  of  any  known 
Rose. 

R.  rubrifolia. — An  European  Rose  with  small  red  flowers  and 
red  stems  and  leaves  ;  very  near  R.  alpina. 

R.  sempervirens. — A  wild  Italian  Rose,  the  parent  of  many  of 
our  older  cluster  and  rambling  Roses.  The  leaves  are 
small  and  polished  and  endure  through  the  greater  part 
of  the  winter. 

R.  setigera. — The  latest  to  bloom  of  the  wild  Roses.  From 
North  America.  Flowers  magenta-rose.  It  makes  a 
good  pillar  Rose. 

R.  simplicifolia  =  berberifolia. — A  small  and  tender  yellow 
Rose,  requiring  a  sheltered  place  against  a  warm  wall. 

R.  spinosissima. — The  native  Burnet  Rose,  type  of  the  well- 
known  Scotch  Briers. 

R.  ivichuriana.  —  A  trailing  Japanese  species  with  small, 
polished,  deep  green  leaves  and  white  flowers.  Beauti- 
ful hybrids  are  now  being  derived  from  it. 


SOME  OF  THE  FREE-GROWING  ROSES  ON  THEIR 
OWN  ROOTS- 


CHAPTER    VI 

ROSES   ON    THEIR    OWN    ROOTS 

Many  of  our  ordinary  garden  Roses  are  necessarily 
own  root  plants.  This  is  because  they  are  so  easily 
propagated  by  other  methods  than  budding.  Pro- 
vence, Damask,  the  albas  and  the  Briers  increase  by 
suckers,  Sweet-brier  by  seed  or  cuttings,  and  the 
free-growing  Ayrshires  and  multiflora  hybrids  by 
cuttings  or  layers.  But  there  are  many  gardens 
where  other  Roses,  especially  the  Teas  and  Hybrid 
Teas,  kinds  that  with  rare  exceptions  are  sold  grafted, 
would  be  better  on  their  own  roots. 

Such  plants  have  several  advantages.  They  are 
much  longer  lived,  they  give  more  bloom,  they  bloom 
more  continuously,  and  they  throw  up  no  troublesome 
suckers. 

The  common  Dog  Rose,  the  most  usual  stock  in 
England,  is  very  troublesome  in  the  way  of  suckers, 
and  often  in  the  case  of  Roses  from  some  good 
foreign  raiser,  the  stock,  if  not  carefully  watched, 
will  overpower  the  scion,  and  we  find  we  have  a 
flourishing  bush  certainly,  but  of  Manetti  or  of  De  la 
Grifferaie  instead  of  the  Rose  desired. 

Grafted  plants  may  be  best  for  the  production  of 
show  blooms,  but  the  bush  that  is  to  produce  the 
show  bloom  is  to  a  great  extent  reared  and  nurtured 
33  c 


34      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

for  that  purpose,  and  the  severe  pruning  to  encourage 
larger  flowers  and  the  shading  to  preserve  colour 
put  the  plant  that  is  to  bear  them  out  of  the  category 
of  beautiful  things  in  the  garden,  whereas  the  own 
root  Roses,  bearing  slightly  smaller  flowers — though 
there  are  exceptions  even  to  this — fulfil  their  best 
purpose  as  true  garden  plants. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  on  rather  light  soils 
and  quite  poor  ones — not  of  course  left  to  themselves, 
but  moderately  and  reasonably  improved — own  root 
Roses  of  the  kinds  classed  as  show  Roses  do  better 
than  grafted.  This  being  so,  and  their  other  advan- 
tages being  considered,  it  seems  strange  that  they  are 
not  oftener  so  grown.  Moreover  they  strike  readily 
in  July  and  August,  so  that  if  they  cannot  be  obtained 
elsewhere,  they  can  easily  be  made  at  home  from 
grafted  plants. 

Every /me  who  has  grown  Roses  on  a  poor  or  dry 
soil,  even  when  beds  have  been  well  prepared  and 
duly  mulched  and  all  reasonable  care  given,  knows 
only  too  well  that  sad,  worn-out  look  of  unhappy 
grafted  Roses,  some  three  years  after  planting.  There 
are  varieties  that  to  the  Rose  lover  are  indispensable, 
such  as  Catherine  Mermet,  a  kind  that  will  do  quite 
well  in  such  soils  on  its  own  roots,  whereas  the 
same  grand  Rose  grafted  is  a  total  failure. 

There  is  also  a  satisfaction  in  knowing  just  what 
one  is  growing.  If  a  Rose  is  on  its  own  roots  there 
is  no  doubt  about  its  identity.  If  it  fails  after 
reasonable  trial  we  may  know  that  the  Rose  itself 
will    not    be   happy,   and    not    that    it    is    perhaps   a 


FREE  CLUSTER  ROSES  ON  THEIR  OWN  ROOTS. 


ROSES   ON   THEIR   OWN   ROOTS      35 

tantrum  of  the  stock — maybe  we  do  not  even  know 
what  stock ! 

Then  the  foreign  stocks  are  plants  from  various 
parts  of  Europe,  perhaps  from  soils  of  quite  different 
chemical  constituents.  Some  particular  stock  may 
not  suit  some  particular  garden,  so  that  the  grower's 
perplexities  are  much  increased,  and  he  is  offered 
additional  chances  of  going  wrong.  If  the  plant  is 
on  its  own  roots  and  fairly  treated  it  does  well  or  it 
does  not,  and  there  the  matter  ends. 


CHAPTER   VII 

ROSE   PILLARS 

A  pillar  in  garden  phrase  is  rather  an  elastic  term, 
for  though  a  Rose  pillar  pure  and  simple  is  what  it 
seems  to  be — that  is  to  say,  a  Rose  grown  to  a  certain 
height  in  upright  shape — there  are  other  developments 
of  the  form  that  are  commonly  accepted  as  of  the 
pillar  family,  and  may  be  conveniently  described 
under  the  same  title.  The  foundation  of  the  pillar 
proper  is  generally  a  post  of  larch  or  oak  or  a 
narrow  upright  iron  framework.  A  Rose  is  chosen 
whose  height  and  natural  way  of  growth  is  suitable, 
and  it  is  trained  and  encouraged  to  grow  so  that  it 
will  show  a  column  of  bloom  over  the  greater  part 
of  its  surface,  and  so  as  not  to  be  too  leggy  at  the 
bottom.  A  perspective  of  Rose  pillars  is  a  charming 
feature  in  a  garden,  and  one  of  the  ways  in  which 
their  beauty  may  be  best  enjoyed.  They  should  be 
so  placed  that  one  can  go  right  up  to  them  and  see 
the  Roses  at  eye  level  and  below  it  and  also  against 
the  sky,  and  smell  their  sweet  scent  in  perfect  comfort 
as  they  grow.  The  posts  may  either  stand  quite  free, 
or,  for  the  better  showing  of  the  rambling  Roses,  be 
connected  by  a  chain  that  hangs  in  easy  festoons. 

Another   form  of  pillar  is  of  greater  width,  when 
either  three  or  four  posts  are  planted  in  group,  or  a 


GLOIRE  LYONNAISE  (H.T.j 


G LOIRE  LYONNAISE  [H  I  )  IN  A  SOUTHERN  GARDE 


* 

r*    *. 

■^  *  •»* 

£&■ 

^'^r*§ 

» 

'"Si'  '* 

' 

v*m 

JP '  , :* 

^WJ 

^rA 

-*     ' ! 

rfe   ?& 

'•'» 

■m? 

<29RB 

$ 

**~2H 

t  i  ^^ 

*.* 

**r> 

* 

**", 

■*'" 

40- 

•»  ■/ 

- '  f> 

,**£?. 

«*« 

Sp  ] 

H 

Bk. 

h&P>* 

if 

i£  V"M 

s'    '* 

>rf  ▼ 

w    JM 

ji^     ^Wnk 

y*-k 

4V  «  - 

*  *>H*l 

3V 

• 

tdsJjOm 

V 

1 

• 

1  < r 

AYRSHIRE  ROSE  ON  PILLAR. 


A  PILLAR  ROSE  IN  THE  EREE  GARDEN. 


QUEEN  ALEXANDRA   (RAMBLER),  PINK  WITH  DEEPER  CENTRE. 


■:y&.*5* 


SIX  PLANTS  OF  CLIMBING  A  I  MEL   VIBERT  {N. 
BALLOON-TRAINED  ON  IRON  ARCHES. 


SIX  PLANTS  OF  BENNETTS  SEEDLING  (Ayrshire), 
BALLOON-TRAINED  ON  IRON  ARCHES. 


PAUL'S  CARMINE  PILLAR,  SCARLET  CRIMSON ,  3  ttukss 


ROSE    PILLARS  37 

wider  iron  frame  is  placed  to  make  a  thicker  block 
of  upright  Roses.  Another  is  wider  still,  and  the 
Roses  are  trained  either  up  or  round  it  outside,  or 
up  a  central  support  and  then  out  at  the  top,  from 
whence  they  fall  over  and  cover  the  sides.  This  is 
an  excellent  way  of  growing  that  beautiful  old  Rose 
Blairii  No.  2.  For  full  fifty  years  this  fine  thing  has 
been  with  us,  and  in  its  own  way  there  is  as  yet 
nothing  better.  Its  origin  is  not  clearly  known,  but 
it  seems  to  be  related  to  the  China  Roses.  Its  dainty 
pink  colouring,  deepening  to  the  centre,  gives  it  a 
rare  charm,  and  recalls  the  loveliness  of  a  looser 
Rose,  the  Blush  Boursault,  that,  alas  !  so  seldom  gives 
well-formed  blooms.  Another  way  of  forming  the 
thick  pillar  or  balloon  is  to  have  a  stout  wooden 
central  post  and  three  intersecting  iron  arches  each 
six  feet  wide,  forming  six  outer  standards  that  arch 
over  to  the  central  post,  and  lateral  wires  girthing 
the  whole  about  eighteen  inches  apart.  The  post 
should  be  five  to  six  inches  thick,  the  iron  arches 
three-eighths  of  an  inch,  and  the  lateral  wires  one- 
quarter  inch.  In  the  case  of  a  structure  of  this  size 
six  plants  of  the  same  kind  of  Rose  are  used,  one  to 
each  upright,  and  all  are  trained  upwards. 

This  thick  form  of  pillar  leads  to  the  Rose  umbrella, 
a  way  of  training  a  free-growing  standard  that,  though 
its  evident  elaboration  of  support  does  not  commend 
it  to  people  of  simple  taste,  yet  certainly  does  produce 
a  wonderful  show  of  bloom.  But  the  iron  frame,  if 
of  any  size,  has  to  be  guyed  all  round  by  stiffly 
strained  wires,  and  these  have  to  be  fixed  to  stumps 


3  8      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

driven  into  the  ground,  and  some  of  us  feel  that  a 
way  of  growing  that  entails  the  necessity  of  employing 
such  complicated  machinery  of  support  is  out  of 
harmony  with  the  Rose  sentiment  and  damping  to 
Rose  fervour. 


Some  of  the  Best  Pillar  Roses  (tall). 

Multiflora  hybrids  (see  p.  26). 

Wichuriana  hybrids  (see  p.  11). 

Ayrshires  (see  p.  21). 

Climbing  Aimee  Vibert,  N. ;  white. 

Waltham  Climber,  T.  j  red. 

Reine  Marie  Henriette,  H.T. ;  rosy  red. 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemburg,  H.T. ;  red. 

Carmine  Pillar,  Hyb. ;  deep  rose. 

Crimson  Rambler,  Mult. ;  crimson. 

Longworth  Rambler,  N. ;  rose-crimson. 

Gloire  de  Dijon,  T. ;  buff  and  orange. 

Bouquet  d'Or,  T. ;         „  „ 

Madame  Berard,  T. ;     ,,  „ 

Penzance  Briers  (see  p.  n). 

William  Allen  Richardson,  N.  j  orange. 

Madame  Alfred  Carriere,  H.N. ;  warm  white. 

Bardou  Job,  T. ;  dark  red. 

Baronne  de  Hoffmann,  T.  ;  copper  red. 

Climbing  Devoniensis,  T. ;  yellow  white. 

Clothilde  Soupert,  T.  ;  carmine  rose. 

Duchesse  D'Auerstadt,  T. ;  yellow. 

Fanny  Stolwerk,  T. ;  salmon  rose. 

Pink  Rover,  H.T. ;  light  rose. 

Paul's  Single  White. 

Ard's  Rover,  H.P.  j  red. 


ROSE    PILLARS  39 

Some  Pillar  Roses  of  Moderate  Height. 

Purity,  H.B. ;  white. 

Belle  Lyonnaise,  T. ;  buff  white. 

Mister  Stella  Gray,  N. ;  buff. 

Climbing  Captain  Christy,  H.C  ;  blush  and  pink. 

Climbing  Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant,  H.T. ;  salmon  pink. 

Climbing  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria,  H.T. ;  white  shaded 

to  centre. 
Gloire  Lyonnaise,  H.T. ;  white,  lemon  centre. 
Griiss  an  Teplitz,  H.T. ;  crimson. 
Dawn,  H.T. ;  nearly  single,  pale  pink. 
Coupe  d'Hebe,  Hyb. ;  pink. 
Madame  Plantier,  Hyb. ;  white. 
Blairii  No.  2,  Hyb. ;  clear  pink  and  pink  white. 
Climbing  Eugenie  Verdier,  H.P. ;  salmon  pink. 
Brightness  of  Cheshunt,  H.P. ;  red. 
Frances  Bloxam,  H.C. ;  salmon  pink. 
Climbing  Victor  Verdier,  H.P. ;  red. 
Climbing  Pride  of  Waltham,  H.P. ;  salmon. 
Gloire  des  Rosomanes,  Hyb. ;  red. 
Charles  Lawson,  H.P.  ;  rose. 


CHAPTER    VIII 

THE    PERGOLA 

Every  garden  is  now  wanting  a  Pergola,  that  pleasant 
shape  of  covered  way  that  we  have  borrowed  from 
Italy,  where  it  is  employed  not  only  for  its  grateful 
shade  but  because  it  is  just  the  right  kind  of  support 
and  way  of  treatment  for  the  vines  of  sunny  southern 
lands. 

We  have  adopted  the  name  because  it  is  more 
convenient  than  the  older  name  of  covered  alley, 
which  three  centuries  ago  was  its  nearest  equivalent 
in  English  gardens.  But  this  was  formed  on  a  much 
more  elaborate  wooden  framework,  a  kind  of  un- 
interrupted arched  trellis  for  the  training  of  some 
green  tree  such  as  Hornbeam  or  Wych  Elm,  whose 
rigid  branches  had  to  be  closely  watched  and  carefully 
guided  and  fixed  until  the  whole  covering  was  com- 
plete ;  after  which  the  chief  care  was  the  outer 
clipping  into  shape. 

The  modern  pergola  is  a  more  free  thing  altogether 
and  differently  constructed.  Upright  piers  of  brick, 
stone,  iron  or  wood  are  erected  in  pairs  across  the 
path  and  a  connecting  beam  is  put  in  place.  A 
slighter  top  is  made  with  thinner  pieces  such  as 
larch  poles,  and  the  whole  is  planted  with  free  growing 
climbers. 


CLUSTER  ROShS  ON  A   PERGOLA 


THE    PERGOLA  41 

A  Rose  pergola  should  be  so  placed  that  it  is  well 
seen  from  the  sides.  One  whose  purpose  is  merely 
to  make  a  shady  way  is  better  covered  with  leafy 
growths  of  Vine,  Aristolochia  or  Virginia  Creeper, 
for  if  they  have  not  free  air  and  space  at  the  sides,  the 
Roses  will  merely  rush  up  and  extend  skyward  where 
they  cannot  be  seen. 

But  a  pergola  that  crosses  some  open  grassy  space, 
such  as  might  divide  two  portions  of  a  garden,  or  that 
forms  a  middle  line  in  the  design  of  one  complete 
garden  scheme,  is  admirably  suited  for  Roses,  and  a 
broad  turf  walk  on  each  side  will  allow  them  to  be 
seen  to  the  best  advantage. 

Here  it  may  be  well  to  observe  that  a  structure  such 
as  this,  which  is  of  some  importance  of  size  and 
appearance,  cannot  just  be  dabbed  down  anywhere. 
It  ought  to  lead  distinctly  from  some  clear  beginning 
to  some  definite  end ;  it  should  be  a  distinct  part  of  a 
scheme,  otherwise  it  merely  looks  silly  and  out  of 
place.  If  there  is  no  space  where  it  will  be  clearly 
right  it  is  better  not  to  have  it.  There  are  arrange- 
ments less  binding  to  definite  design,  such  as  pillars 
of  Roses  or  arches  at  a  cross  walk,  and  many  free 
uses  on  fences,  trees,  and  unsightly  places.  An 
arboured  seat  is  always  a  good  ending  to  a  pergola, 
and  a  place  where  ways  meet  often  suggests  a  suitable 
beginning.  Such  a  place  may  be  glorified  by  circular 
or  octagonal  treatment,  with  a  central  tank  or  fountain, 
and  pillars  of  Roses  to  mark  the  points  of  the  octagon 
or  relative  points  on  the  circumference.  But  space, 
proportion,  and  the  nature  of  the  environment  must 


42      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

all  be  considered ;  indeed  in  this,  as  in  the  very 
smallest  detail  of  procedure  in  garden  design,  just 
the  right  thing  should  be  done  or  it  is  better  let 
alone. 

In  small  gardens  in  which  there  is  no  general 
design  there  often  occurs  some  space  where  one 
department  gives  place  to  another — as  when  flower 
garden  adjoins  vegetable  ground — where  a  short 
pergola-like  structure  of  two  or  three  pairs  of  posts 
may  be  quite  in  place  and  will  form  a  kind  of  deepened 
archway.  Such  an  arrangement  in  iron  is  shown  in 
the  illustration,  where  it  makes  a  pleasant  break  in  an 
awkward  corner  where  there  is  a  mixture  of  wall  and 
flower  border  and  a  turn  of  the  path. 

The  pergola  proper  should  be  always  on  a  level 
and  should  never  curl  or  twist.  If  a  change  of 
level  occurs  in  its  length  in  the  place  where  it  is 
proposed  to  have  it,  it  is  much  better  to  excavate  and 
put  in  a  bit  of  dry  wall  right  and  left  and  steps  at  the 
end,  either  free  of  the  last  arch  or  with  the  last  two 
pairs  of  piers  carried  up  square  to  a  higher  level,  so  as 
to  give  as  much  head-room  at  the  top  step  as  there  is 
in  the  main  alley. 

There  is  a  great  advantage  in  having  solid  piers  of 
masonry  for  such  structures  ;  piers  of  fourteen-inch 
brickwork  are  excellent,  and  in  some  districts  even 
monoliths  of  stone  can  be  obtained ;  but  often  the 
expense  of  stone  or  brickwork  cannot  be  undertaken 
and  something  slighter  and  less  costly  must  be  used. 
The  illustration  of  a  Wistaria  pergola  is  the  more 
instructive  because  the  structure  shown  is  only  a  few 


si 


PERGOLA  OF  LIGHT  SQUARED   WOOD  POSTS 
OX  STONE  BASES. 


ROSE  FLORA  ON  PERGOLA  OF  ROUGH  LARCH. 


A  ROSE  PERGOLA  OF  ROCTGH  OAK 


ROSA   BRUNONI  ON  THE  OUTSIDE  OF  A  PERGOLA. 


THE   PERGOLA  43 

years  old  and  the  way  the  framework  is  made  may  be 
clearly  seen. 

Here  it  is  of  squared  wood,  with  the  beams  partly 
supported  and  much  strengthened,  and  the  whole 
fabric  stiffened,  by  slightly  curved  or  cambered  braces 
of  the  same.  It  should  be  noticed  how  much  the 
curve  of  the  brace  adds  to  the  strength  of  the  support 
and  how  pleasantly  it  satisfies  the  eye.  It  would  have 
been  better  still  if  the  beam  itself  had  been  ever  so 
slightly  cambered.  It  will  also  be  seen  that  the  feet 
of  the  posts,  instead  of  going  into  the  ground,  rest  on 
a  wrought  stone  ;  an  iron  dowel  let  into  both  stone 
and  post  fixing  it  firmly.  Thus  there  is  no  danger  of 
the  foot  of  the  post  rotting. 

For  the  first  year  or  two  there  is  no  need  to  fill  in 
the  top  with  the  slighter  poles  that  later  will  support 
the  more  extensive  growths  of  the  creepers ;  indeed 
the  whole  thing  is  very  pretty,  with  a  different  kind  of 
form  and  beauty,  to  the  mature  pergola  with  its  fully 
filled  roof.  In  these  earlier  years  one  sees  more  of 
the  individual  plants,  and  their  first  vigour  of  growth 
and  bloom  can  be  more  fully  enjoyed.  In  many  cases 
such  pairs  of  posts  with  connecting  beam  and  side 
rails,  but  without  roof,  are  more  suitable  than  the 
complete  pergola.  This  arrangement  is  shown  in  the 
pictures  where  they  are  placed  across  the  main  walks 
of  the  kitchen  garden  and  where  the  Roses  are  to  be 
seen  from  the  walk  alone,  not  from  the  sides,  which 
are  only  vegetable  quarters. 

In  some  of  the  illustrations  the  framework  is  of  the 
simplest  possible  construction,  of  oak  or  of  larch.     In 


44      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

these  the  posts  go  into  the  ground.  This  of  course 
will  have  a  shorter  lifetime,  and  after  several  years 
signs  of  weakness  must  be  looked  for.  A  spur  of 
larch  or  oak  going  deep  into  the  ground  and  nailed  or 
bolted  to  a  shaky  post  will  prolong  its  life  for  some 
more  years,  but  there  always  comes  a  time  of  sore 
regret  (when  constant  repair  is  needed)  that  it  was  not 
made  more  structurally  permanent  at  the  beginning. 

The  sides  of  the  pergola  may  be  much  ornamented 
by  hanging  garlands  of  Roses  trained  to  chains. 


A  ROSE  PERGOLA   OF  IRON  FRAMEWORK 


FELICITE.PEKl'ETUE  ON  AN  ARCH  OVER  A   GARDEN  PATH. 


CHAPTER   IX 

ROSE   ARCHES   AND   ARBOURS 

Many  are  the  ways  in  which  an  arch  of  Roses  may 
be  beautiful  in  the  garden,  whether  it  be  a  garden 
of  some  distinctly  set  design  or  one  that  is  quite 
informal. 

Where  two  ways  meet  or  cross  at  a  right  angle 
there  is  always  an  opportunity  for  the  placing  of 
an  arch  of  Roses,  or  where  flower  garden  passes  into 
kitchen  garden,  whether  it  be  walled  or  not.  A  Rose 
arch  is  none  the  less  a  Rose  arch  because  there  is 
a  brick  arch  behind  it,  although  what  is  generally 
understood  as  a  Rose  arch  is  one  that  stands  free  or 
is  in  connection  with  a  bounding  hedge,  the  Rose  itself 
forming  the  arch,  only  supported  by  a  framework 
of  wood  or  iron. 

But  often  in  a  modest  garden  there  are  other  uses 
for  a  Rose  arch,  such  as  the  garden  will  itself  suggest. 
For  instance,  where  a  double  flower  border  is  made 
in  a  kitchen  garden,  and  it  is  desirable  to  take  up  as 
little  space  as  may  be,  a  whole  Rose  scheme  may  be 
conveniently  combined  with  borders  of  useful  flowers 
for  cutting  or  for  contemplation.  A  four-foot  grass 
or  gravel  path  would  have  on  each  side  borders  of 
five  feet  wide.  At  intervals  of  twenty-five  feet,  Rose 
arches,  the  foot  of  the  arches  planted  in  the  back 


46      ROSES  FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

of  the  borders,  span  the  whole.  At  the  back  of  both 
borders  is  a  hedge  of  Roses  that  will  grow  about  three 
feet  high.  If  the  space  is  divided  into  four,  points 
will  be  found  for  three  pillar  Roses  rising  from  the 
hedge  and  in  a  line  with  it ;  those  will  therefore  stand 
about  eight  feet  apart. 

The  illustration  shows  a  Crimson  Rambler  trained 
over  a  wire  support  in  a  free  hedge  of  Rhododendrons 
in  a  place  where  a  path  from  one  division  of  a  garden 
leads  into  another. 

An  incident  in  this  picture  that  is  not  at  all  of  un- 
frequent  occurrence  is  worthy  of  notice.  It  is  the 
carefully  made  rabbit-proof  iron  fencing,  with  two 
wires  out  in  the  lower  part  of  the  gate,  leaving  a 
space  which  seems  to  invite  the  entrance  of  any  small 
animal.  When  it  is  desired  to  keep  out  rabbits,  and 
an  expensive  fence  is  put  up  for  the  purpose,  one 
such  oversight  makes  the  whole  thing  useless.  Gates 
of  this  slight  construction,  which  are  in  themselves 
perhaps  the  least  distressing  to  the  eye  of  all  their 
unsightly  class,  are  especially  liable  to  injury  from  an 
accidental  kick,  or  a  blow  from  a  barrow  wheel. 

Wrought  iron  gates,  with  richly  designed  ornament 
of  the  best  kind  that  are  made  for  the  place  itself,  of 
perfect  proportion  and  suitable  enrichment,  may  well 
lead  into  and  out  of  the  Rose  garden,  or  indeed  any 
other  garden  division,  and  Roses  may  clamber  near 
them,  but  it  is  more  fitting  that  they  should  not  climb 
over  or  into  gates  or  screens  of  this  class.  Two  such 
richly  decorated  objects  as  the  artist-craftsman's  work 
in  enduring  metal  and  the  clusters  of  living  Rose  had 


CRIMSON  RAMBLER  OVER  A   GARDEN  HAND-GATE 


m 


ft;   <n 

UJ     « 

SIP 

o  ^~^ 

°?  1 

ft;  - 
fe  1! 

°  s 

ft,    2 

oq  ^ 

o  in 
Q  ft] 

^5 

ft.    ft 


■ 


$5jU*~ 


if ' 

t 

;«l 

Hu  - 

:3f  •  .' 

".     v^SB»>   ? '■                afrit 

1     B£ 

,4  A  Afl^^^H 

i    li  *m 

-^^3H 

£2^9        BBHH^'-' 

l^^H 

■RS^HPPV^^^ 

^^^ 

^^gS^^^MJ^I 

.USTER  ROSE  FELICITE-PERPETUE  ON  A   GARDEN  ARCH. 


DUNDEE  RAMBLER  (Ayrshire),  ON  A   GARDEN  ARCH, 


Eli*'v          ':';"• 

r%*'J£*  ^Bfe'"' ••>*; * 'f*  '•  ■  -'-^ 

WWT'''"    ■  '*£23B#  "33&8t 

-*':?%  '* .  t  -<>~^4 '£<$/  ' 

>!aR'*'«o  %•  ri  •"•'• 

>*   .  -.•--■           /  \- 

•       *       .,sv                      '*V    . 

*-£  '  +  **■&  .„" 

^               A                       '^A 

)M< 

A                      ^>        • 

**$&%#£** 

Wa            'a— 

■HhsII       S  -J 

*     «^i®§ 

l-v;  -Hwwi  ^ 

?•>;   «*»»       '*'•*•  ; 

F'               •'                     ^ft      v; 

i 

E^T  'j 

V 

£     ■ 

DUNDEE  RAMBLER  ON  A   GARDEN  GATEWAY. 


ROSE   ARCHES   AND   ARBOURS       47 

better  be  seen  and  enjoyed  separately.  But  in  the 
case  of  a  simple  arch  in  a  brick  garden  wall  and  a 
wrought-iron  gate  of  very  simple  design,  such  as  the 
one  in  the  illustration,  the  Rose  is  a  welcome  and 
rightly  placed  addition  to  the  garden  picture.  The 
simple  old  Rose  arbour,  by  no  means  so  often  seen 
as  it  might  well  be,  should  be  in  every  modest  garden. 
A  Dundee  Rambler  on  one  side  to  cover  the  top, 
and  an  Aimee  Vibert,  or  an  alba  kept  to  pillar  height, 
to  clothe  the  other  side,  will  be  an  ample  furnishing, 
though  there  is  a  sense  of  additional  comfort  if  the 
back  wall,  unless  the  arbour  is  actually  against  a  wall 
of  brick  or  stone,  were  of  some  solid  greenery,  such 
as  yew  or  box.  An  arbour  may  be  anything  between 
this  and  a  more  important  structure,  but  in  any  case 
some  free  Roses  at  its  opening  offer  a  charming  invita- 
tion to  enter  and  rest  in  grateful  shade  in  the  June 
and  July  days  of  their  blooming  season. 


CHAPTER  X 

ROSE   SCREENS,   HEDGES,   AND   TRELLISES 

Many  are  the  opportunities  in  the  planning  of  gardens 
for  having  a  screen  or  hedge  all  of  Roses.  Sometimes 
it  may  occur  as  part  of  the  Rose  garden  design,  but 
more  often  in  some  detached  portion  of  the  grounds 
some  kind  of  light  screen  is  actually  wanted.  There 
are  often  rubbishy  or  at  least  unbeautiful  spaces  on 
some  of  the  frontiers  of  the  kitchen  garden,  where 
a  Rose  screen  or  hedge  will  not  only  hide  the  un- 
sightliness,  but  will  provide  a  thing  beautiful  in  itself 
and  that  yields  a  large  quantity  of  bloom  for  cutting. 
Many  are  the  kinds  of  structure  that  may  be  used  to 
support  and  train  the  Roses.  But  with  posts  of  oak 
or  larch,  and  straight  long  lengths  of  sawn  larch 
tips  for  the  top  rail,  and  some  wire  netting  of  the 
coarsest  mesh,  an  effective  framework  may  be  easily 
and  cheaply  made  that  in  three  years  will  show  a 
perfect  covering  of  blooming  Roses.  Between  this 
and  the  elaborately  made  wooden  framings  there  are 
many  grades  and  forms  of  flower  wall  or  trellis  that 
can  be  arranged  according  to  special  use  or  need. 
One  pretty  way  is  to  have  a  low  trellis  with  posts 
for  pillar  Roses  at  intervals.  This  can  be  carried  a 
little  further  by  having  chains  from  post  to  post.  If 
this  should  occur  on  each  side  of  a  path,  the  posts 


"  %3  i 


SCREENS,  HEDGES,  AND  TRELLISES     49 

coming  opposite  each  other  can  be  connected  by  an 
arched  top.  This  arrangement  can  also  be  very 
prettily  adapted  to  such  a  Rose  trellis  at  the  back 
of  a  flower  border,  either  at  the  two  ends  of  the 
border  or  at  intervals  in  its  length.  It  would  be 
an  extremely  pretty  way  of  having  a  double  flower 
border  in  three  divisions,  with  such  an  open  cross 
screen  twice  in  the  length,  as  well  as  at  the  begin- 
ning and  end.  The  first  division  of  the  border  might 
well  be  flowers  all  blue  and  white  and  pale  yellow, 
with  bluish  foliage ;  the  middle  one  of  warm  colour- 
ings of  rose,  red,  scarlet,  orange,  and  full  yellows, 
and  the  third  of  purple,  pale  pink  and  white  flowers, 
with  silvery  and  other  cool  foliage. 

Chains  are  generally  used  to  form  the  garlands 
from  post  to  post,  and  they  are  the  best,  as  they 
hang  in  a  good  natural  line.  A  cheaper  and  not  bad 
substitute  is  wire  rope.  Whether  chain  or  rope  is 
used  it  is  an  excellent  plan,  and  much  better  for  the 
Roses,  to  wind  thick  tarred  twine,  or  something 
stronger  than  twine  —  tarred  cord  as  thick  as  the 
diameter  of  a  large  Sweet  Pea  seed  —  round  and 
round  the  chain  or  wire,  keeping  the  coils  rather 
close,  so  that  the  Rose  branches  do  not  actually  touch 
the  iron  but  rest  upon  the  coiled  cord. 

For  the  post  and  low  trellis  the  posts  are  planted 
with  any  of  the  good  ramblers  or  Roses  of  free 
growth,  while  the  low  trellis  may  have  strong  grow- 
ing H.P.s  or  any  of  the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas 
usually  described  in  Rose  lists  as  "vigorous."  In 
this   case   two    Roses,  or   three,  according  to  space, 

D 


50      ROSES  FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

preferably  of  the  same  kind,  would  be  planted  against 
each  panel  of  the  trellis.  Another  way  would  be  to 
plant  another  Rose  of  rambling  habit  against  the 
middle  of  the  trellis  and  train  it  down  over  its  next 
neighbour. 

Posts  when  put  into  the  ground  should  always 
have  the  ends  prepared  either  by  gas-tarring  or  by 
charring  in  the  fire.  This  preparation  should  come 
up  the  post  quite  a  foot  out  of  the  ground,  as  damp 
and  rot  attack  it  first  at  or  near  the  ground  line.  If 
a  better  kind  of  wooden  framework  is  made,  the  posts 
are  set  on  stone  or  brickwork  nine  inches  to  a  foot 
out  of  the  ground,  as  described  in  the  chapter  on  the 
pergola  at  p.  40. 


Roses  of  the  free-growing  kinds  adapt  themselves 
readily  to  the  form  of  hedges.  One  has  only  to 
choose  a  Rose  of  more  or  less  vigour,  according  to 
the  height  required.  The  hedge  or  screen  way  of 
growing  them  has  the  merit  of  ease  of  access  for 
training  and  pruning  as  well  as  that  of  giving  close 
enjoyment  of  the  living  walls  of  flowers.  The 
tendency  of  nearly  all  strong  growing  Roses  is  to 
rush  up  and  leave  bare  places  below.  A  Rose  hedge 
should,  if  possible,  have  a  free  space  on  both  sides, 
when  this  defect  can  be  remedied  in  two  ways ;  one 
by  training  the  shoots  in  an  arched  form  with  the 
tips  bent  well  down,  and  the  other  to  tip  some  of  the 
outer  strong  young  shoots  that  spring  from  the  base. 
If  in  July  these  are  shortened  about  a  third,  instead 


SCREENS,  HEDGES,  AND  TRELLISES     51 

of  continuing  their  growth  in  length,  their  energy 
goes  to  strengthening  the  shortened  piece  that  is  left. 
This  will  then,  the  following  season,  be  thickly  set 
with  flowering  laterals  that  will  clothe  the  lower  part 
of  the  hedge. 

Many  of  the  newer  rambling  Roses,  the  old  Ayr- 
shires  and  the  stronger  of  the  Teas,  are  admirable  for 
this  way  of  growth,  while  there  are  Roses  to  suit 
every  height.  The  height  of  the  Rose  hedge,  as  in 
all  other  matters  of  garden  design,  must  be  determined 
in  relation  to  the  proportion  of  the  space  it  is  to  fill 
and  the  size  and  distribution  of  whatever  may  be 
within  view.  Nothing  is  gained  by  carrying  it  up 
to  a  great  height.  Eight  or  nine  feet  is  in  most  cases 
the  limit  of  desirable  height,  while  anything  from  four 
to  seven  feet  will  be  likely  to  suit  the  wants  of  most 
modest  gardens.  A  charming  hedge  four  feet  high 
can  be  made  with  the  old  favourite  Madame  Plantier. 
It  is  all  the  prettier  if  there  is  a  short  standard  of  the 
same  at  regular  intervals.  Another  pretty  hedge  of 
the  same  class  can  be  made  with  this  good  Rose  in 
combination  with  one  of  pink  colouring,  such  as  the 
old  H.P.  Anna  Alexieff.  I  know  a  pretty  Rose  hedge 
where  the  two  are  mixed ;  not  planted  alternately, 
but  two  or  three  of  one  kind  and  then  one  of  the  other, 
and  so  on  in  irregular  sequence.  Or  it  would  be 
charming  to  have  short  standards  of  Anna  Alexieff 
rising  as  just  described  from  the  low  hedge  of  the 
white  Madame  Plantier. 

No  one  would  regret  some  planting  of  these  two 
excellent   old   garden    Roses.    This   one    example   is 


52      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

given  as  a  type  of  this  kind  of  planting.  Any  one 
who  tried  it  and  had  enough  garden  sensibility  to 
feel  its  charm,  and  enough  garden  fervour  to  wish  to 
practise  it  in  varied  forms,  would  soon  invent  other 
combinations. 

It  would  be  easy  to  name  many  such  desirable 
mixtures,  but  it  is  more  helpful  to  show  one  simple 
thing  that  is  easily  understood,  and  that  awakens 
interest  and  enthusiasm,  and  to  leave  those  wholesome 
motive  powers  to  do  their  own  work,  than  it  is  to 
prompt  the  learner  at  every  step,  fussing  like  an 
anxious  nurse,  and  doing  for  him,  what,  if  his  en- 
thusiasm is  true  and  deep  and  not  mere  idle  froth, 
will  give  him  more  pleasure  in  the  doing,  and  more 
profit  in  the  learning,  than  if  it  were  all  done  for  him. 
For  the  very  essence  of  good  gardening  is  the  taking 
of  thought  and  trouble.  No  one  can  do  good  decora- 
tive work  who  does  it  merely  from  a  written  recipe. 
The  use  of  such  a  book  as  this  is  to  describe  enough 
to  set  the  Rose  pilgrim  on  his  road,  not  to  blindfold 
him  and  lead  him  all  the  way  by  hand. 


MADAME  ALFRED  CARRIERE  (N.)  GROWN  AS  A   HEDGE. 


THE  GARLAND  ROSE  IN  A   COTTAGE  GARDEN. 


CHAPTER  XI 

ROSES   AS   FOUNTAINS   AND    GROWING    FREE 

Among  the  many  ways  of  worthily  using  the  free 
Ayrshire  Roses,  one  of  the  best  is  to  leave  them  to 
their  own  way  of  growth,  without  any  staking  or 
guiding  whatever.  Due  space  must  be  allowed  for 
their  full  size,  which  will  be  a  diameter  of  some  ten 
feet.  Of  these  useful  garden  Roses  none  is  more 
beautiful  than  the  Garland,  with  its  masses  of  pretty 
blush-white  bloom.  It  is  well  worth  getting  up  at 
4  a.m.  on  a  mid-June  morning  to  see  the  tender 
loveliness  of  the  newly  opening  buds ;  for,  beauti- 
ful though  they  are  at  noon,  they  are  better  still  when 
just  awaking  after  the  refreshing  influence  of  the 
short  summer  night. 

Several  others  among  the  old  Ayrshires  are  excellent 
in  this  way  of  growth,  though  perhaps  there  are  none 
to  beat  the  Garland  and  Dundee  Rambler.  A  grassy 
space  where  they  may  be  seen  all  round,  or  a  place 
where  the  great  bush  may  be  free  at  least  on  two 
sides,  are  the  most  suitable,  or  they  may  be  used  as 
central  or  symmetrically  recurring  points  in  a  Rose 
garden  of  some  size.  The  young  growths  that  show 
above  the  mass  when  the  bloom  is  waning  are  the 
flowering  branches  of  next  year  ;  they  will  arch  over 
and   bear    the   clusters   of    flowers    on    short    stems 


54      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

thrown  out  at  each  joint.  The  way  these  young 
main  branches  spring  up  and  bend  over  when  mature 
is  exactly  the  way  that  best  displays  the  bloom. 
Each  little  flower  of  the  cluster  is  shown  in  just  the 
most  beautiful  way  ;  and  it  is  charming  to  see,  when 
light  winds  are  about,  how  the  ends  of  the  sprays, 
slightly  stirred  by  the  active  air,  make  pretty  curtsey- 
ing movements  arising  from  the  weight  of  the  crowded 
bloom  and  the  elasticity  of  the  supporting  stem. 

There  is  a  whole  range  of  use  of  these  beautiful 
Roses,  from  this  free  fountain  shape  without  any 
artificial  support,  to  association  with  trees  and  bushes 
in  shrub  clumps  and  wood  edges,  and  from  that  to 
clambering  into  the  trees  themselves. 

The  illustration  shows  this  pretty  Cluster  Rose  grow- 
ing over  and  among  some  Pernettyas,  beside  a  broad 
grassy  way  that  passes  from  garden  into  copse.  The 
young  growths  may  be  seen  rising  above  it,  as  yet 
quite  soft  and  tender,  and  only  half  grown.  As  the 
year  goes  on  they  will  harden  and  mature  and  arch 
over,  and  next  year  bloom  in  their  turn. 

When  these  free  Roses  rush  up  into  trees,  instead 
of  throwing  out  their  new  growths  from  close  to  the 
earth,  they  are  formed  upon  the  older  wood  higher 
up,  and  the  stem  or  stems  that  supports  them  go 
on  growing  till  sometimes  they  attain  a  considerable 
thickness. 

Everything  that  has  been  said  of  the  Garland  Rose, 
as  to  its  use  as  a  fountain  Rose  or  free  climber,  may 
also  be  said  of  Dundee  Rambler,  Bennett's  Seedling, 
Felicite-Perpetue,    and   others   of    the   cluster    Roses 


......  J- 

■'j^^-O----  ■•■■■  >   **■       - 

»■  * 

!   .  %    - 

\          ■  -• 

ROSE  FLORA   {Evergreen  Cluster),  GROWING  INTO  SHRUBS. 


CLUSTER  ROSE  (Sempeivirens)  AS  A  BUSH. 


CLIMBING  AIMEE  VIDEKl'  (N .)  RAMBLING  OVER  WILLOWS 


ROSES  AS   FOUNTAINS  $S 

classed  as  Ayrshires.  They  are  all  worthy  of  use  in 
these  ways,  and  of  being  encouraged  to  clamber  into 
trees  and  hedges.  One  cannot  help  observing  how 
the  support  of  a  tree  encourages  almost  abnormal 
growth.  The  wild  Dog-rose  will  go  up  twenty  feet, 
and  Sweet-brier  nearly  as  high  ;  while  almost  any  Rose 
that  has  at  all  a  climbing  habit  will  exert  itself  to  the 
utmost  to  get  high  up  into  the  tree. 

Climbing  Aimee  Vibert  is  generally  used  as  a  pillar 
Rose,  but  the  picture  shows  how  it  will  rush  up  into 
a  tree  and  increase,  not  only  in  height  but  in  freedom 
of  flowering. 

The  free-growing  R.  multiflora  of  the  Himalayas 
also  forms  immense  fountains,  spreading  in  diameter 
by  naturally  rooted  layers,  from  which  new  plants 
take  root  at  the  outer  circumference  of  the  great  bush, 
throwing  up  strong  growths,  and  so  continually  in- 
creasing its  area.  The  large  flowered  one  (R.  multi- 
flora  grandiflora),  as  well  as  the  double  kind,  are 
valuable  varieties,  with  all  the  freedom  of  the  type, 
while  each  has  its  own  distinct  development  of  some- 
what the  same  class  of  beauty. 

For  spaces  between  garden  and  wild,  for  sloping 
banks,  for  broken  ground,  as  of  an  old  gravel  pit  or 
other  excavation,  for  all  sorts  of  odds  and  ends 
of  unclassified  places  about  the  home  grounds,  the 
rambling  and  free-growing  Roses  seem  to  be  offered 
us  by  a  specially  benevolent  horticultural  providence. 
A  well-prepared  hole  is  all  they  need  at  first.  About 
four  years  after  planting,  if  the  best  they  can  do  for 
us  is  desired,  they  should  be  looked  to  in  the  way  of 


5  6      ROSES   FOR    ENGLISH   GARDENS 

removing  old  wood.  This  should  be  done  every  two 
years,  but  beyond  this  they  need  no  pruning  and  no 
staking  whatever.  When  they  begin  to  grow  freely 
among  bushes  or  trees,  if  it  is  desired  to  lead  the  far- 
reaching  growths  one  way  rather  than  another,  it  is 
easily  done  with  a  long  forked  stick,  and  a  very 
pleasant  and  interesting  job  it  is.  It  is  like  painting 
a  picture  with  an  immensely  long-handled  brush,  for 
with  a  fourteen-foot  pole  with  a  forked  end  one  can 
guide  the  branches  into  Yew  or  Holly  or  tall  Thorn 
very  nearly  into  such  forms  of  upright  spring  or  down- 
ward swag  as  one  pleases. 

It  is  pleasant,  too,  in  such  rough  places,  to  see  the 
behaviour  of  one  of  these  Roses  on  the  ground  with- 
out support,  and  to  watch  the  different  way  of  its  own 
brother  plant  climbing  into  a  neighbouring  tree. 


THE  GARLAND  ROSE  RAMBLING  OVER  A    YEW 


ROSES  AND  CISTUSES  IN  THE  ROCK-GARDEN.     IN  THE 

LOWER  LEFT  HAND  CORNER  CISTUS  HIRSUTUS  ;  IN 

THE  MIDDLE  ROSA  ALBA  ;  TO  THE  RIGHT  R. 

RUGOSA  var.  MADAME  GEORGES  BR U A  NT. 


ROSE  FLORA  ON  A  GARDEN  HOUSE. 


CHAPTER    XII 

ROSES    ON    WALLS   AND    HOUSES 

The  name  Cluster  Rose,  which  formerly  belonged 
almost  entirely  to  the  older  class  of  garden  Roses 
known  as  the  Ayrshires,  varieties  of  sempervirens,  and 
the  Musk  Roses,  has  lately  been  necessarily  extended 
to  all  the  beautiful  things  that  the  last  few  years  have 
given  us,  most  of  them  hybrids  of  Rosa  multiflora  or 
polyantha.  All  these  Roses  are  derived  from  species 
of  rambling  habit  that  in  their  native  places  climb 
about  among  rocks  and  bushes.  They  seem  willing 
to  extend  their  natural  growth,  for  if  guided  into  an 
evergreen  tree,  such  as  Holly  or  Ilex,  they  will  clamber 
up  to  surprising  heights.  Climbing  Aimee  Vibert,  for 
instance,  which  is  generally  used  as  a  pillar  Rose  or  for 
some  such  use  as  that  shown  in  the  frontispiece,  will 
rush  high  up  into  a  tree,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  picture 
(p.  55).  The  uses  of  these  free  Roses  are  unending, 
but  just  now  it  is  their  adaptation  to  house  and  gar- 
den walls  that  is  under  consideration.  When  growing 
naturally,  these  Roses  throw  out  young  rods  of  new 
growth  every  year ;  by  degrees  the  older  growths  die, 
and  the  younger  ones,  pushing  outward,  shoot  up 
through  the  dead  and  dying  branches,  both  hiding 
them  and  displaying  their  own  fresh  young  beauty. 
But  on  a  wall  this  internal  scaffolding  of  dead  wood 


58      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

cannot  be  tolerated,  and  a  close  watch  has  to  be  kept 
on  the  plants,  and  the  older  growths  have  to  be  cut 
right  away  at  least  every  two  years.  How  these  free 
Roses  will  grow  over  and  decorate  the  porch  and 
walls  of  a  small  house  of  no  architectural  pretension 
may  be  seen  from  the  illustration.  It  is  just  these 
houses  that  best  lend  themselves  to  the  use  of  the 
climbing  Roses,  indeed  many  that  are  absolutely  ugly, 
or  worse  than  plainly  ugly — debased  by  fictitious 
so-called  ornament  of  the  worst  class — may  be  re- 
deemed and  even  made  beautiful  by  these  bountiful 
and  lovely  Cluster  Roses. 

A  modest  dwelling  that  has  no  special  beauty  or 
character  may  by  a  clever  use  of  climbing  Roses  be 
converted  into  a  delightful  object.  No  one  could  pass 
the  roadside  cottage  shown  in  the  illustration  without 
a  thrill  of  admiration  for  the  free-growing  cluster  Rose 
that  covers  the  walls  and  wreaths  the  front  of  the 
porch. 

The  little  house  itself  has  lost  much  of  its  true 
character  from  the  evident  alteration  of  the  windows, 
which  would  originally  have  been  either  lead  lights 
and  casements,  or,  if  sash  windows,  would  have  had 
the  panes  smaller,  with  rather  thick  sash-bars.  The 
large  panes  destroy  the  proportion  and  make  the 
house  look  too  small  for  them.  Some  ugly  flat  frames 
to  all  the  windows,  and  pediment-shaped  additions  to 
the  tops  of  the  lower  ones,  do  much  to  destroy  and 
vulgarise  the  effect  of  what  must  have  been  a  little 
building  with  the  modest  charm  of  perfect  simplicity. 
The  lead-roofed  porch  is  right,  and  so  is  the  open 


ALICE  GRAY  AND  FELICITE-PERPETUE  ON  A    VERANDAH, 


THE  BLUSH  BOURSAULT. 


ROSES  ON  A  HOUSE   WALL  THAT  WOULD  HAVE  GIVEN 
MORE  FLOWER  IF  THEY  HAD  BEEN  MORE 
CLOSELY  PRUNED. 


■    fej 


ROSES  ON  WALLS   AND   HOUSES     59 

wooden  railing.  One  cannot  but  be  thankful  that 
when  the  windows  were  altered  so  much  for  the 
worse,  the  railing  was  not  replaced  by  a  cast-iron 
"  ornamental "  atrocity. 

When  a  house  is  of  fine  design  one  hesitates  about 
covering  it  with  flowering  plants,  but  in  such  cases 
they  find  their  right  places  on  terrace  walls,  unless 
these  are  decorated  with  wrought  stone  balustrading. 

The  illustration  shows  an  example  of  good  use  of 
the  beautiful  Garland  Rose  on  the  terrace  of  a  good 
square-built  house  of  middle  or  late  eighteenth  century 
construction.  The  terrace  is  not  balustraded,  and  the 
two  or  three  feet  of  height  gained  by  the  rising  of  the 
Rose  and  the  other  free  growths  give  the  needed  sense 
of  security  in  a  kind  of  living  parapet. 

Many  are  the  Roses  for  use  on  garden  walls.  They 
are  detailed  in  lists  referred  to  at  the  end  of  the 
chapter  on  Pillar  Roses,  and  only  some  of  the  most 
remarkable  need  be  here  noticed. 

In  the  south  of  England,  walls  facing  south  and 
south-west  are  too  hot  a  place  for  many  of  the  Roses 
commonly  planted  against  them,  although  these  ex- 
posures suit  the  tender  Roses,  the  Noisettes,  Banksias, 
Macartneys,  and  Fortune's  Yellow,  all  of  rambling 
growth.  Here  is  also  the  place  for  the  beautiful 
Persian  Briers,  including  the  scarlet  so-called  Austrian, 
the  curious  Abyssinian  Rosa  Ecce  with  yellow  blooms 
the  size  of  a  shilling,  Rosa  simplicifolia  Hardi  with 
yellow  flowers  that  have  a  dark  blotch  at  the  base 
of  the  petal,  and  Rosa  micropkylla,  a  flower  whose 
character  is  quite  its  own.     The  double  variety  has 


60      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

the  best  bloom  and  is  very  ornamental ;  in  both  the 
double  and  single  the  prickly  calyx  is  a  remarkable 
feature,  as  is  also  the  fruit  of  the  type,  which  by 
retaining  this  curious  calyx  forms  a  strange-looking 
hip. 

On  garden  walls  of  other  exposures  in  the  southern 
parts  of  England  almost  any  of  the  free-growing  Roses 
will  do  well.  Naturally  in  the  colder  midlands  and  in 
the  damper  climates  of  Scotland,  Ireland,  and  Wales 
the  warm  aspects  may  be  used  for  more  kinds  of 
Roses,  such  as  the  Teas  and  Hybrid  Teas. 

Many  a  beautiful  effect  may  be  gained  by  a  Rose 
planted  on  one  side  of  a  wall  and  trained  to  tumble 
over  the  top  on  to  the  other  side.  Often  a  south  wall 
is  devoted  to  rather  tender  shrubs ;  in  such  a  place  if 
a  hardy  cluster  Rose,  such  as  Dundee  Rambler,  is 
planted  on  the  north  side,  a  good  mass  of  its  bloom 
will  come  over  and  help  to  decorate  the  walls  on  the 
more  precious  or  southern  face. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  as  Roses  on  walls 
want  training  and  pruning  that  it  is  well,  even  if  there 
is  an  important  flower  border  in  front,  to  have  a  little 
blind  alley  running  within  a  foot  or  so  of  the  wall. 
If  they  are  not  easy  to  get  at  they  are  apt  to  be 
neglected.  There  must  be  every  facility  for  training, 
pruning,  mulching  and  cutting.  The  pruning  in  this 
case  consists  in  the  removal  of  the  older  wood  of 
these  free-growing  Roses  ;  it  must  never  be  neglected, 
or  the  plant  will  soon  grow  thin  and  leggy.  Who 
does  not  know  the  starved  wall  Rose  in  a  worn-out 
border  against  a  bare  wall,  with  ten  or  twelve  feet  of 


ROSE  COMING  OVER  A    WALL 


ROSES   ON  WALLS  AND   HOUSES     61 

naked  stem  and  branch  and  famished  growth  of  flower 
and  leaf  covered  with  green-fly  ?  Perhaps  within 
three  feet  of  its  root  is  a  flourishing  Ivy,  with  a  stem 
as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist,  covering  half  the  house  and 
bulging  with  the  loose  untidy  nests  of  house  sparrows. 
If  we  expect  a  Rose  to  give  its  beauty  we  should  at 
least  let  it  have  fair  play  both  above  ground  and 
below ;  in  the  ground  by  giving  it  proper  space  and 
nutriment,  and  above  by  watching  for  the  time  when 
old  wood  should  be  cut  out,  rampant  young  stuff 
tipped,  and  new  flowering  wood  trained  in. 


CHAPTER   XIII 

ROSES   FOR   CONVERTING   UGLINESS   TO   BEAUTY 

No  plant  is  more  helpful  and  accommodating  than 
the  Rose  in  the  way  of  screening  ugliness  and  pro- 
viding living  curtains  of  flowery  drapery  for  putting 
over  dull  or  unsightly  places.  For  instance,  no  object 
can  be  much  less  of  an  adornment  to  a  garden  than 
the  class  of  ready-made  wooden  arbour  or  summer- 
house  "  made  of  well-seasoned  deal,  and  painted  three 
coats  complete."  Yet  by  covering  it  with  an  outer 
skin  of  ramping  Roses  it  may  in  about  three  years 
be  made  a  beautiful  thing,  instead  of  an  eyesore.  The 
illustration  shows  such  a  house  that  has  been  planted 
with  Crimson  Rambler  and  other  free-growing  Roses. 
Larch  poles,  connected  by  top  rails,  have  been  placed 
round  it.  The  spreading  branches  of  the  Roses  will 
reach  out  over  the  rails,  and  the  whole  thing  will 
become  a  house  of  Roses.  Not  only  will  it  be  beau- 
tiful, but  the  deep  masses  of  leafy  and  flowery 
branches  will  keep  off  the  sun-heat,  which,  without 
such  a  shield,  makes  these  small  wooden  buildings 
insufferably  hot  in  summer. 

Many  an  old  farmhouse  is  now  being  converted 
into  a  dwelling-house  for  another  class  of  resident, 
and  wise  are  they  who  consider  well  before  they  pull 
down   the    old   farm    buildings.      For   even  a  tarred 


AN  UGLY  WOODEN  SUMMERHOUSE   WITH  A   PARTLY-GROWN 

COVERING  OF  CRIMSON  RAMBLER  AND  OTHER 

FREE  ROSES. 


BARE  OLD  FARM  BUILDINGS  BROUGHT  INTO  GARDEN  USE 

BY  A   PLANTING  OF  CREEPERS,    WITH  NEAR  BUSHES 

OF  FREE-GROWlNG  ROSES. 


GARDEN  ARCH  MADE  OF  DEAD  APPLE  LIMBS  AND 
CLOTHED   WITH  IVY  AND  CLIMBING  ROSES. 


CONVERTING  UGLINESS  TO  BEAUTY    63 

shed,  with  a  thatched  or  tiled  roof,  may  soon  be 
made  beautiful  by  a  planting  of  these  beneficent 
Rambling  Roses.  Many  of  the  buildings,  shed  or 
barn,  cowhouse  or  stable,  may  still  have  the  weather- 
boarding  undefiled  by  gas-tar,  and  if  so,  its  silvery 
grey  colour  is  a  ground  whose  becoming  quality  can 
hardly  be  beaten  for  tender  pink  and  rosy  Roses. 
Dead  or  unprofitable  old  orchard  trees,  too,  may 
have  their  smaller  branches  sawn  off  and  be 
planted  with  Roses.  If  they  are  shaky,  some  stout 
oaken  props,  also  rose-clothed,  will  steady  them  for 
many  a  year.  When  once  these  Roses  get  hold  and 
grow  vigorously  the  amount  of  their  yearly  growth 
is  surprising. 

Generally  among  these  farm  buildings  there  is,  in 
the  enclosed  yard,  a  simple  shelter  for  animals,  made 
of  posts  supporting  a  lean-to  roof,  either  against  a 
barn  or  a  high  wall.  This,  without  alteration,  or 
merely  by  knocking  through  the  two  ends,  may  be 
made  into  a  delightful  shaded  cloister,  each  post 
having  its  Rose.  There  would  not  need  to  be  a 
climbing  Rose  to  every  post,  but  a  climbing  and  a 
pillar  Rose  alternately.  The  lean-to  roof  would  need 
some  slight  trellising,  the  rougher  the  better.  No 
material  for  this  is  so  good  as  oak,  not  sawn  but 
split.  Split  wood  lasts  much  longer  than  sawn,  as  it 
rends  in  its  natural  lines  of  cleavage  and  leaves  fairly 
smooth  edges.  Sawing  cuts  cruelly  across  and  across 
the  fibres,  leaving  a  fringe  or  ragged  pile  of  torn  and 
jagged  fibre  which  catches  and  holds  the  wet  and 
invites  surface  decay. 


64      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

These  farm  places  have  also  commonly  old  field 
hedges,  some  one  of  which  may  become  the  boundary 
of  the  new  pleasure  garden.  If  it  is  rightly  placed 
for  shelter  or  for  its  original  purpose  of  a  field  fence, 
or  for  its  newer  service,  it  is  better  not  to  grub  it 
up,  but  to  fill  its  gaps  and  weak  places  with  free- 
growing  Roses.  If  it  has  Thorns,  either  Blackthorn  or 
Whitethorn,  and  Hollies,  both  of  some  height,  it  is  a 
chance  to  be  thankful  for  of  showing  how  these  grand 
rambling  Roses  will  rush  up  and  tumble  out,  and  make 
lovely  dainty  wreaths  and  heavy-swagging  garlands  of 
their  own  wild  will.  We  have  only  to  place  them 
well  and  show  them  how  to  go,  to  lead  and  persuade 
them  just  at  the  beginning.  In  two  years'  time  they 
will  understand  what  is  wanted,  and  will  gladly  do 
it  of  themselves  in  many  ways  of  their  own — ways 
much  better  than  any  that  we  could  possibly  have 
devised. 

Then  there  is  no  end  to  the  beautiful  ways  of 
making  Rose  arbours  and  tunnels,  or  Rose  houses  for 
the  children.  Dead  trees  or  any  rough  branching 
wood  can  easily  be  put  up  and  spiked  together  to 
make  the  necessary  framework,  and  the  Roses  will 
take  to  it  gladly.  An  old  dead  Apple-tree,  if  it 
happens  to  stand  where  an  arbour  is  wanted,  need 
not  even  be  moved  ;  another  bit  of  trunk  can  be  put 
up  eight  feet  away,  and  the  branches  of  the  standing 
one  sawn  off,  all  but  those  that  go  the  right  way. 
These  branches  can  be  worked  in  to  form  the  top, 
keeping  a  stout,  slightly  curved  piece  for  the  front 
top   beam.      The  Roses   seem   to  delight   in  such  a 


DEAD  APPLE  TREES  CLOTHED   WITH  ROSES  OVER  AN 
ORCHARD  GATE. 


CLIMBING  ROSE  COVERING  AND  OLD  FARM  SUED. 


CLIMBING  ROSE  COVERING  A  DEAD  APPLE  TREE. 


#- 

> 

— ~ ~~* 

r^ 

4  ' 

*:1    * 

1.  . 

-f>I 

•  J, 

■S J^flHi 

1     »sVl 

4.  -#"t 

fflKvm. 

i!^ 

•«<» 

*v  * 

-» 1 

<*> 

*  • 

J&  #* 

.  ■•**-" 

u 

M 

-,6  *  '  J*fc- 

** 

4 

•- 

$#« 

•  iu^N^-v/W 

iw& 

*V" 

^/,v'.:7c,v          ...    -1 

o 

o 

Q 

s  ^ 

z?  ^ 
^  S2 

Q 
W 
o 

a 

o 


CONVERTING  UGLINESS  TO  BEAUTY    65 

rough-built  arbour,  for  they  rush  up  and  clothe  it 
with  most  cheerful  willingness. 

The  back-door  region  and  back-yard  of  many  a 
small  house  may  be  a  model  of  tidy  dulness,  or  it 
may  be  a  warning  example  of  sordid  neglect ;  but 
a  cataract  of  Rose  bloom  will  in  the  one  case  give 
added  happiness  to  the  well-trained  servants  of  the 
good  housewife,  and  in  the  other  may  redeem  the 
squalor  by  its  gracious  presence,  and  even  by  its 
clean,  fresh  beauty  put  better  thoughts  and  desires 
into  the  minds  of  slatternly  people. 

What  a  splendid  exercise  it  would  be  if  people 
would  only  go  round  their  places  and  look  for  all 
the  ugly  corners,  and  just  think  how  they  might  be 
made  beautiful  by  the  use  of  free-growing  Roses. 
Often  there  is  some  bare  yard,  and  it  has  come  within 
my  own  experience  to  say  to  the  owner,  "Why  not 
have  rambling  Roses  on  these  bare  walls  and  arches?" 
and  to  have  the  answer,  "  But  we  cannot,  because  the 
yard  is  paved,  or  perhaps  asphalted."  Is  not  a  grand 
Rose  worth  the  trouble  of  taking  up  two  squares  of 
Egging  or  cemented  surface  ? 


CHAPTER    XIV 

ROSE   GARDENS 

One  of  the  many  ways  in  which  the  splendid  en- 
thusiasm for  good  gardening — an  enthusiasm  which 
only  grows  stronger  as  time  goes  on — is  showing  itself, 
is  in  the  general  desire  to  use  beautiful  Roses  more 
worthily.  We  are  growing  impatient  of  the  usual 
Rose  garden,  generally  a  sort  of  target  of  concentric 
rings  of  beds  placed  upon  turf,  often  with  no  special 
aim  at  connected  design  with  the  portions  of  the 
garden  immediately  about  it,  and  filled  with  plants 
without  a  thought  of  their  colour  effect  or  any  other 
worthy  intention. 

Now  that  there  is  such  good  and  wonderfully  varied 
material  to  be  had,  it  is  all  the  more  encouraging 
to  make  Rose  gardens  more  beautiful,  not  with  beds 
of  Roses  alone — many  a  Rose  garden  is  already  too 
extensive  in  its  display  of  mere  beds — but  to  consider 
the  many  different  ways  in  which  Roses  not  only 
consent  to  grow  but  in  which  they  live  most  happily 
and  look  their  best.  Beds  we  have  had,  and  arches 
and  bowers,  but  very  little  as  yet  in  the  whole  range 
of  possible  Rose  garden  beauty. 

The  Rose  garden  at  its  best  admits  of  many  more 
beauties  than  these  alone.  Of  the  Roses  we  have 
now   to   choose  from   some  are  actual  species,  and 

66 


hi 

o 

tq 

q 

ft) 

a 

q 

o 

ft! 

£ 

o 
^  q 

M  q 

q  ft) 

o  ^ 

o  o 


CO 

ft} 
to 

o 
ft) 


pj 

4.  ">  ^SrW'    ■             "^ 

1 

(P; 

p 

'"■':■ 

1 

11  * 

1 

pi 

L'       i      v'  ■; 

Wf 

- 

Ik 

•jm   u 

if  •>.-;- 

V 

»*• 

ROSE   GARDENS  67 

many  of  them  so  nearly  related  to  species  that  their 
wild  way  of  growth  may  well  be  taken  into  account 
and  provided  for.  Thus  the  beautiful  milk-white  Rosa 
Brunoni  of  the  Himalayas  is  at  its  best  climbing 
into  some  thin  growth  of  bush  or  small  tree.  Many 
of  the  numerous  new  rambling  Roses,  children  of 
another  Himalayan  Rose,  that  have  been  hybridised 
with  other  species,  and  again  crossed  to  gain  variety 
of  colour  and  shape,  willingly  lend  themselves  to  the 
same  treatment.  Many  Roses,  even  some  of  those 
that  one  thinks  of  as  rather  stiff  bushes,  the  Scotch 
Briers,  Rosa  lucida  and  the  like,  only  want  the  oppor- 
tunity of  being  planted  on  some  height,  as  on  the 
upper  edge  of  a  retaining  wall,  to  show  that  they 
are  capable  of  exhibiting  quite  unexpected  forms  of 
growth  and  gracefulness,  for  they  will  fling  themselves 
down  the  face  of  the  wall  and  flower  all  the  better 
for  the  greater  freedom.  The  beautiful  and  fast- 
growing  Rosa  wickuriana,  with  its  neat  white  bloom 
and  polished  foliage,  will  grow  either  up  a  support 
or  down  a  steep  bank,  or  festoon  the  face  of  a  wall 
far  below  its  roots,  and  to  the  adventurously  minded 
amateur  disclose  whole  ranges  of  delightful  possi- 
bilities ;  while,  stimulated  by  the  increased  demand, 
growers  are  every  year  producing  new  hybrids  and 
clever  crosses  derived  from  this  accommodating  plant. 
So  the  thought  comes  that  the  Rose  garden  ought 
to  be  far  more  beautiful  and  interesting  than  it  has 
ever  yet  been.  In  the  hope  of  leading  others  to 
do  more  justice  to  the  lovely  plants  that  are  only 
waiting  to  be  well  used,  I  will   describe  and  partly 


68      ROSES   FOR    ENGLISH   GARDENS 

illustrate  such  a  Rose  garden  as  I  think  should  be 
made.  In  this,  as  in  so  much  other  gardening,  it 
is  much  to  be  desired  that  the  formal  and  free  ways 
should  both  be  used.  If  the  transition  is  not  too  abrupt 
the  two  are  always  best  when  brought  into  harmoni- 
ous companionship.  The  beauty  of  the  grand  old 
gardens  of  the  Italian  Renaissance  would  be  shorn  of 
half  their  impressive  dignity  and  of  nearly  all  their 
poetry,  were  they  deprived  of  the  encircling  forest- 
like thickets  of  Arbutus,  Evergreen  Oak,  and  other 
native  growths.  The  English  Rose  garden  that  I 
delight  to  dream  of  is  also  embowered  in  native 
woodland,  that  shall  approach  it  nearly  enough  to 
afford  a  passing  shade  in  some  of  the  sunny  hours, 
though  not  so  closely  as  to  rob  the  Roses  at  the  root. 

My  Rose  garden  follows  the  declivities  of  a  tiny, 
shallow  valley,  or  is  formed  in  such  a  shape.  It  is 
approached  through  a  short  piece  of  near  home  wood- 
land of  dark-foliaged  trees,  for  the  most  part  ever- 
greens ;  Yew,  Holly,  and  Scotch  Fir.  The  approach  may 
come  straight  or  at  a  right  angle  ;  a  straight  approach 
is  shown  in  the  plan.  As  it  belongs  to  a  house  of 
classic  design  and  of  some  importance,  it  will  be 
treated,  as  to  its  midmost  spaces,  with  the  wrought 
stone  steps  and  balustraded  terraces,  and  such  other 
accessories  as  will  agree  with  those  of  the  house  itself. 

The  bottom  of  the  little  valley  will  be  a  sward  of 
beautifully  kept  turf,  only  broken  by  broad  flights 
of  steps  and  dwarf  walls  where  the  natural  descent 
makes  a  change  of  level  necessary.  The  turf  is  some 
thirty  feet  wide  ;  then  on  either  side  rises  a  retaining 


C  ■     ;"■■ 


'JOC5QOI 


I 


PLAN  OF  THE  UPPER  PART  OF  A  FORMAL  ROSE  GARDEN  IN 
A  SMALL   VALLEY  WITH  WOODLAND  ABOVE. 


RAMBLING  ROSE  RUNNING  INTO  TREES  IN  THE   WOOD 

EDGE,  AS  DESCRIBED,  BOUNDING  THE  FORMAL 

ROSE  GARDEN. 


ROSE   GARDENS  69 

wall  crowned  by  a  balustrade.  At  the  foot  of  this, 
on  the  further  side,  is  a  terrace  whose  whole  width  is 
about  twenty-four  feet.  Then  another  and  higher 
retaining  wall  rises  to  nearly  the  level  of  the  wooded 
land  above.  This  has  no  parapet  or  balustrade.  The 
top  edge  of  the  wall  is  protected  by  bushy  and  free- 
growing  Roses,  and  a  walk  runs  parallel  with  it, 
bounded  by  rambling  Roses  on  both  sides.  On  the 
wooded  side  many  of  the  Roses  run  up  into  the  trees, 
while  below  Sweet-brier  makes  scented  brakes  and 
tangles. 

The  lawn  level  has  a  narrow  border  at  the  foot  of 
the  wall  where  on  the  sunnier  side  are  Roses  that  are 
somewhat  tender  and  not  very  large  in  growth.  On 
the  terraces  there  are  Roses  again,  both  on  the  side 
of  the  balustrade  and  on  that  of  the  retaining  wall. 
The  balustrade  is  not  covered  up  or  smothered  with 
flowery  growths,  but  here  and  there  a  Rose  from 
above  comes  foaming  up  over  its  edge  and  falls 
over,  folding  it  in  a  glorious  mantle  of  flower  and 
foliage.  It  is  well  where  this  occurs  that  the  same 
Rose  should  be  planted  below  and  a  little  farther 
along,  so  that  at  one  point  the  two  join  hands  and 
grow  together. 

So  there  would  be  the  quiet  lawn  spaces  below, 
whose  cool  green  prepares  the  eye  by  natural  laws 
for  the  more  complete  enjoyment  of  the  tinting  of 
the  flowers  whether  strong  or  tender,  and  there  is 
the  same  cool  green  woodland  carried  far  upward  for 
the  outer  framing  of  the  picture.  In  no  other  way 
that  I  can  think  of  would  beautiful  groupings  of  Roses 


7o      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

be  so  enjoyably  seen,  while  the  whole  thing,  if 
thoroughly  well  designed  and  proportioned,  would 
be  one  complete  picture  of  beauty  and  delight. 

In  a  place  that  binds  the  designer  to  a  greater 
degree  of  formality  the  upper  terrace  might  be  more 
rigidly  treated,  and  the  woodland,  formed  of  Yew  or 
Cypress,  more  symmetrically  placed.  On  the  other 
hand  there  is  nothing  to  prevent  the  whole  scheme 
being  simplified  and  worked  out  roughly,  with  un- 
dressed stones  for  the  steps  and  dry  walling  for  the 
retaining  walls,  so  as  to  be  in  keeping  with  the  other 
portions  of  the  grounds  of  any  modest  dwelling. 

If  a  Rose  garden  is  to  be  made  on  a  level  space 
where  any  artificial  alteration  of  the  ground  is  inex- 
pedient, it  will  be  found  a  great  enhancement  to 
the  beauty  of  the  Roses  and  to  the  whole  effect  of  the 
garden  if  it  is  so  planned  that  dark  shrubs  and  trees 
bound  it  on  all  sides.  The  plan  shows  a  simple 
scheme  where  this  is  arranged.  A  central  space  of 
turf  has  Rose  borders  in  the  form  shown.  Outside 
is  a  wide  grass  walk,  and  beyond  that  dark  shrubs. 
On  the  four  sides  grassy  ways  pass  into  the  garden  ; 
while  the  whole  outer  edge  of  the  Rose  beds  is  set  with 
posts  connected  by  chains  on  which  are  pillar  and 
free-growing  cluster  Roses  placed  alternately. 

At  each  outer  and  inner  angle  of  the  design  will 
be  a  free-growing  Ayrshire  or  one  of  the  now  nume- 
rous Rambler  group.  Each  of  these  will  furnish  the 
length  of  chain  on  its  right  and  left,  while  Pillar 
Roses  will  clothe  the  posts  between. 


XQ 


. 


PLAN  OF  A   ROSE  GARDEN  ON  LEVEL  GROUND  ENCLOSED  BY 
YEW  HEDGES,  BEYOND   WHICH  ARE  TALL  EVER- 
GREENS, SUCH  AS  ILEX  OR  CYPRESS. 


3ft;  ;>  ^ 

P2        V  **sr*>ttta 

V         -'>v        flip 

1       %#^^£*3|? 

Ck» 

RAMBLING  ROSE  {Double  Atvensis),  RUNNING  INTO  TREES 
AT  WOOD  EDGE,  as  described  at  p.  Gg. 


VISCOUNTESS  FOLKESTONE  (H.T.),  A  BEAUTIFUL  ROSE 
FOR  MASSING  IN  BEDS. 


RAMBLING  ROSE  THE  GARLAND,  GROWING  INTO  TREES, 
As  described  at  p.  69. 


ROSE   GARDENS  71 

The  background  of  dark  trees  is  so  important  that 
I  venture  to  dwell  upon  it  with  some  degree  of  per- 
sistence. Any  one  who  has  seen  an  Ayrshire  Rose 
running  wild  into  a  Yew  will  recognise  the  value  of 
the  dark  foliage  as  a  ground  for  the  tender  blush 
white  of  the  Rose  ;  and  so  it  is  with  the  Rose  garden 
as  a  whole. 

The  wisdom  of  this  treatment  is  well  known  in 
all  other  kinds  of  gardening,  but  with  the  tender 
colourings  of  so  many  Roses  it  has  a  special  value. 
It  should  be  remembered  that  a  Rose  garden  can 
never  be  called  gorgeous  ;  the  term  is  quite  unfitting. 
Even  in  high  Rose  tide,  when  fullest  of  bloom, 
what  is  most  clearly  felt  is  the  lovable  charm  of 
Rose  beauty,  whether  of  the  whole  scene,  or  of 
some  delightful  detail  or  incident  or  even  individual 
bloom. 

The  gorgeousness  of  brilliant  bloom,  fitly  arranged, 
is  for  other  plants  and  other  portions  of  the  garden ; 
here  we  do  not  want  the  mind  disturbed  or  distracted 
from  the  beauty  and  delightfulness  of  the  Rose.  From 
many  of  the  Rose  gardens  of  the  usual  unsatisfactory 
type  other  kinds  of  gardening  are  seen,  or  perhaps 
a  distant  view,  or  a  carriage  road,  or  there  is  some 
one  or  other  distracting  influence  that  robs  the  Roses 
of  the  full  exercise  of  their  charm.  Even  in  a  walled 
space,  unless  this  is  darkly  wooded  round,  it  is 
better  not  to  have  Roses  on  the  walls  themselves, 
but  rather  to  have  the  walls  clothed  with  dark 
greenery. 

The  beneficent  effect  of  neighbouring   dark  trees 


72      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

may  be  seen  in  the  picture  of  the  Rose  arches.  Any 
trees  of  dark  or  dusky  foliage  serve  well  as  Rose 
backgrounds,  whether  of  the  greyish  tone  of  the 
common  Juniper  or  the  richer  greens  of  Thuya  or 
Cypress,  Yew  or  Holly. 

In  the  few  instances  that  can  be  given  in  a  book 
it  is  impossible  to  consider  a  hundredth  part  of  the 
many  varying  circumstances  of  different  gardens. 
Each  place  has  its  own  character,  and  the  choice 
of  site  for  the  Rose  garden  will  necessarily  be 
governed  by  the  natural  conditions  of  the  place. 

One  illustration  shows  a  Rose  border  made  just 
under  a  terrace  wall.  The  ground  to  the  right  slopes 
too  sharply  to  allow  of  a  broader  grass  walk  without 
having  another  retaining  wall  below ;  had  it  not  been 
for  this,  a  space  of  turf  as  wide  again,  between  the 
border  and  the  Rose  hedge,  would  have  been  better. 
Here  also  is  plainly  seen  the  value  of  the  dark  ever- 
green trees  above. 


A  ROSE  GARDEN  AMONG  CYPRESSES. 


CHAPTER    XV 

ROSES    AS    CUT    FLOWERS 

There  is  scarcely  any  Rose  that  we  can  wish  to  have 
in  our  gardens  that  is  not  also  delightful  in  the  cut 
state.  A  china  bowl  filled  with  well-grown  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  grand  of  colour  and  sweetly  scented,  is 
a  room  decoration  that  can  hardly  be  beaten  both 
for  beauty  and  for  the  pleasure  it  gives,  whether  in 
a  sitting-room  or  on  the  breakfast  table.  The  only 
weak  point  about  cut  Roses  is  that  their  life  is  short. 
The  day  they  are  cut  they  are  at  their  best,  the  next 
day  they  will  do,  but  the  third  day  they  lose  colour, 
scent,  and  texture.  Still  it  is  so  delightful  to  any 
one  who  lives  a  fairly  simple  life  in  the  country  to 
go  out  and  cut  a  bunch  of  Roses,  that  the  need  for 
their  often  renewal  is  only  an  impulse  towards  the 
fulfilment  of  a  household  duty  of  that  pleasant  class 
that  is  all  delight  and  no  drudgery. 

Tea  Roses  last  quite  a  day  longer  than  Hybrid 
Perpetuals,  but  they  need  more  careful  arrangement, 
for  many  of  them  have  rather  weak  stalks  and  hang 
their  heads.  Still  these  "'may  be  avoided  and  only 
strong-stalked  ones  used.  In  most  cases  they  are 
best  by  themselves,  without  the  addition  of  any  other 
flowers.  In  my  own  practice  the  only  notable  ex- 
ception  I    make    to   this   general    rule    is    with    the 


74      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Cabbage  and  Moss  Roses,  the  Damasks,  and  other  old 
garden  kinds.  Whether  it  is  that  they  are  so  closely 
associated  with  what  one  considers  the  true  old 
garden  flowers,  or  for  some  reason  of  their  own 
ordaining,  I  could  not  say,  but  about  midsummer  I 
have  great  pleasure  in  putting  together  Cabbage,  Moss, 
and  Damask  Roses  with  Honeysuckle  and  white 
Pinks,  and  China  Roses  also  with  white  Pinks.  The 
combination  of  these  few  flowers,  all  of  sweetest  scent, 
seems  to  convey,  both  by  sight  and  smell,  the  true 
sentiment  of  the  old  English  garden  of  the  best  and 
simplest  kind. 

Large  Roses  are  top-heavy,  and  every  one  who  is 
used  to  arranging  flowers,  must  at  some  time  or  other 
have  been  vexed  by  a  bunch  of  Roses  carefully  placed 
in  a  bowl  conspiring  together  to  fling  themselves  out 
of  it  all  round  at  the  same  moment.  It  is  well  worth 
while  to  have  wire  frames  made  for  the  bowls  that 
are  generally  in  use.  Two  discs  of  wire  netting  with 
a  top  rim  and  three  legs  of  stouter  wire  can  be  made 
by  any  whitesmith  or  ironmonger  or  by  the  ingenious 
amateur  at  home.  The  lower  tier  of  netting  should 
be  an  inch  from  the  bottom  of  the  bowl,  to  catch 
the  lower  end  of  the  stalk.  I  have  often  used  three 
garden  pots,  one  inside  another  in  a  china  bowl,  thus 
making  three  concentric  rings  and'one  centre  for  stalk 
space.  Stiff  greenery,  like  Box  or  Holly,  kept  low  in 
the  bowl  out  of  sight,  also  makes  a  good  foundation. 

Roses  are  best  also  with  their  own  leaves,  the  chief 
exception  to  this  being  the  beauty  of  red-tinted  sum- 
mer  shoots   of  Oak,  which  in  July  and  August  are 


go, 


CO  Q 

CO  < 

O  ^ 

fti  - 


co 
O 

a 


-J 


ft! 


*< 


SI 


O  ~ 
►J 

& 
o 

t 

§ 

J! 

Q 

a 

§ 


ROSA  ALBA  ;  DOUBLE  AND  HALF-DOUBLE. 


A   GLASS  OF  COMMON  PINK  CHINA   ROSE. 


CHINA  ROSES  AND  IVY  IN  MID-OCTOBER. 


*2 


ROSES   AS   CUT   FLOWERS  75 

extremely  harmonious  with  the  colourings  of  the  Teas 
and  hybrid  Chinas.  Also  in  the  autumn  I  like  to 
use  with  my  Roses  some  sprays  of  the  wild  Traveller's 
Joy  {Clematis  vitalbd). 

Some  of  the  free-growing  Roses  are  beautiful  cut 
quite  long,  even  to  a  length  of  three  to  four  feet. 
They  are  delightful  decorations  in  rooms  of  fair  size, 
arranged  in  some  large  deep  jar  that  will  hold  plenty 
of  water,  not  only  for  their  sustenance,  but  as  a 
weighty  counterpoise  to  the  flower  -  laden  branches 
that  will  hang  abroad  rather  far  from  the  centre  of 
gravity.  Roses  like  Madame  Alfred  Carriere,  that 
flower  in  loose  bunches  on  long  stems,  and  the 
crimson  half  -  double  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg, 
with  its  incomparable  foliage  that  can  be  cut  almost 
any  length,  show  by  their  natural  way  of  growth 
how  they  must  be  arranged  in  long  branching  ways. 
The  Ramblers  and  Ayrshires,  too,  are  beautiful  cut 
in  yard-long  branches,  but  are  difficult  to  arrange. 
Special  ways  have  to  be  devised  for  overcoming  their 
desire  to  swing  round  flower-side  down.  But  placed 
high,  on  the  shoulder  of  some  cabinet  about  six  feet 
from  the  ground,  with  the  lovely  clusters  trending 
downward,  they  are  charming  and  beautiful  room 
ornaments. 

Great  care  should  be  given  to  assorting  the  col- 
ours and  in  putting  together  kinds  that  have  some 
affinity  of  blood  and  harmony  of  tint.  It  is  well 
never  to  mix  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Teas,  except, 
perhaps,  some  of  the  more  solid  Teas  of  the  Dijon 
class.  But  Roses  well  assorted  are  like  a  company 
of  sympathetic  friends — they  better  one  another. 


76      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

It  is  always  well  to  have  two  or  three  of  the  same 
range  of  colouring,  with  perhaps  one  harmonious 
departure,  such  as  Madame  Lambard,  Papa  Gontier, 
and  Laurette  Messimy,  or  G.  Nabonnand,  Vicountess 
Folkestone,  and  Hon.  Edith  Gifford,  or  Souvenir  de 
Catherine  Guillot,  White  Maman  Cochet,  and  Anna 
Ollivier. 

The  same  suggestion  will  be  found  of  use  in  arrang- 
ing them  in  beds,  for  a  jarring  mixture,  such  as  one 
of  the  orange-copper  Hybrid  Teas,  with  kinds  of  cool 
pink  and  white,  will  have  an  unsatisfactory  effect. 
Both  may  be  lovely  things,  but  they  should  not  be 
placed  together.  But  to  learn  to  observe  this — first 
of  all  to  see  that  it  makes  a  difference,  then  to  become 
aware  that  it  might  be  better,  and  finally  to  be  dis- 
tinctly vexed  with  an  inharmonious  combination,  these 
are  all  stages  in  growth  of  perception  that  should 
be  gone  through  in  the  training  of  the  Rose  enthusiast's 
mind  and  eye. 

It  is  best  and  easiest  to  learn  to  do  this  with  the  cut 
flowers,  and  a  pleasant  task  it  is  to  have  a  quantity 
of  mixed  cut  Roses  and  to  lay  them  together  in  beau- 
tiful harmonies — best,  perhaps,  in  some  cool,  shady 
place  upon  the  grass — and  then  to  observe  what  two 
or  three,  or  three  or  four  kinds,  go  best  together, 
and  to  note  it  for  further  planting  or  indoor  ar- 
rangement. Then,  as  an  example  of  what  is 
unsuitable,  try  a  Captain  Christy  and  a  Madame 
Eugene  Resal  together,  and  see  how  two  beautiful 
Roses  can  hurt  each  other  by  incompatibility  of 
kind  and  colour. 


ROBERT  DUNCAN  (H-P.) 


SOUVENIR  DE  LA   MALM  A I  SON  (Bourbon),  AND  CLIMBING 
AIMEE   VIBERT  (Noisette),  IN  MID-SEPTEMBER. 


LADY  EMILY  PEEL  (an  old  blush-white  garden  Rose).  IN 


SEPTEMBER. 


CLIMBING  ROSES  ON  THE  BALCONY  OF  AN  ITALIAN   VILLA- 


CHAPTER   XVI 

ROSES    IN    ENGLISH    GARDENS   ON   THE   RIVIERA 

It  is  very  surprising  to  find  how  few  kinds  of  Roses 
are  grown  in  gardens  on  this  coast,  and  consequently 
a  mere  list  is  rather  disappointing,  the  fact  being  that 
it  is  the  beauty  and  the  abundance  of  their  flowers 
that  constitutes  the  charm  rather  than  the  very  great 
variety  of  kinds.  The  cause  is  very  easy  to  com- 
prehend. Those  who  care  for  their  gardens  do  not 
as  a  rule  come  out  much  before  Christmas,  and  leave 
at  the  latest  by  the  middle  of  May,  so  that  any  Rose 
that  does  not  flower  freely  during  the  late  autumn  or 
early  spring  is  of  little  importance,  however  beautiful 
it  may  be.  Moreover,  the  great  sun  power  and  the 
fatal  Rose  beetles  that  tear  the  petals  to  ribbons  in 
May  prevent  the  latest  Roses  being  of  real  value,  while 
the  gorgeous  blaze  of  Geraniums,  Gazanias,  Petunias, 
and  such  summer  flowers  destroys  the  tender  tones  of 
those  Roses  which  bloom  late. 

It  is  the  climbing  Roses  that  are  the  joy  of  the 
gardener  here.  They  grow  rampantly  and  flower 
profusely,  whether  they  be  grown  trained  to  walls, 
pergolas,  arches,  pillars,  and  such  like,  or  if  they 
simply  are  planted  near  a  tree,  preferably  an  Olive 
or  Cypress,  and  fling  their  sprays  of  blossom  down 
from  the  very  highest  to  the  lowest  branches,  with 


78      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

never  a  pruning  knife  or  gardener's  shears  to  mar 
their  native  grace. 

The  Banksian  Roses  must  have  the  first  place  for 
beauty  and  abundance,  though  only  the  big  white 
R.  B.  Fortunei  is  fairly  perpetual,  and  decks  its  glossy 
evergreen  foliage  with  isolated  flowers  through  the 
whole  winter.  The  single  yellow  Banksian  Rose,  in- 
troduced not  more  than  twenty  years  ago  from  Italy, 
and  first  admired  in  Sir  Thomas  Hanbury's  well- 
known  garden  at  La  Mortola,  deserves  a  special  notice, 
because  it  is  fully  three  weeks  earlier  than  the  double 
forms  in  spring,  and  gives  a  delightful  summer 
effect  in  the  month  of  March  in  sunny  situations, 
and  is  even  more  rampant  and  floriferous  than  any 
other  member  of  the  family,  becoming  a  real  tree 
itself. 

There  are  two  forms  of  the  double  yellow  Banksian 
Rose.  For  richness  of  colour  and  beauty  of  flowering 
spray  I  think  Jaune  decidedly  the  best,  and  indeed, 
for  its  period  of  flower,  the  most  effective  of  all.  The 
second  and  less  well  known  form — that  I  know  as 
Jaune  serin  —  has  larger,  paler  flowers  on  longer 
stems,  is  decidedly  less  brilliant  in  effect,  but  has 
just  the  same  delicate  perfume  the  small  double  white 
exhales,  and  which  is  curiously  enough  denied  by 
many  people  who  are  appreciative  of  other  scents. 

The  common  double  white  Banksian  Rose  is  the 
most  abundant  and  ubiquitous  of  all,  and  is  as  much 
the  ornament  of  trees,  walls,  pergolas,  and  pillars  in 
the  month  of  April  and  early  May  as  the  common 
Ivy  is  in  more  northern  climates.     It  is  everywhere, 


BANKSIAN  ROSE  CLIMBING  INTO  OLIVE  AND  CYPRESS. 


RIVIERA   GARDEN   ROSES  79 

and  nowhere  out  of  place,  though  it  loses  its  leaves 
in  the  month  of  January. 

Rosa  sinica,  commonly  called  Rose  Camellia  on  this 
coast  (another  eastern  Rose),  is  an  especial  favourite 
here.  Rampant  in  growth,  abundant  in  its  single 
white  flowers,  which  first  open  in  March,  with  thorny 
shoots  whose  red  stems  and  glossy  foliage  enhances 
the  purity  of  the  petals,  it  heralds  the  arrival  of  spring, 
and  prefers  light  and  poor  soils  where  many  other 
Roses  fail.  Its  new  companion  and  hybrid,  R.  S. 
Anemone,  promises  to  become  even  more  beautiful, 
and  being  of  a  soft  rose-du-Barri  tint,  will  soon  find 
its  way  everywhere,  as  there  is  no  climbing  Rose  of  its 
particular  and  lovely  shade  of  colour. 

Rosa  bracteata. — The  Macartney  Rose  is  rarely  seen, 
as  it  flowers  so  late  in  spring,  but  as  it  blossoms  well 
in  autumn  when  R.  sinica  is  barren,  it  should  not  be 
omitted.  Its  glossy,  perfectly  evergreen  foliage  is 
quite  unique,  and  the  long  sprays  tipped  with  its 
scented  flowers  in  November  are  greatly  admired. 

R.  Marie  Leonidas  (a  double  form  of  this  Rose)  is 
the  freest  winter  bloomer  of  this  section.  Most 
beautiful  in  a  few  gardens,  it  is  not  grown  as  much 
as  it  deserves,  as  it  is  not  a  flower  for  the  market, 
which  alone  is  the  criterion  of  worth  to  French  gar- 
deners.    It  should  not  be  omitted  by  the  amateur. 

R.  Fortunei. — To  China  again  we  are  indebted  for 
this  lovely  climber,  perhaps  in  a  sense  the  most 
notable  of  those  yet  mentioned,  for  it  does  not  and 
cannot  show  its  real  beauty  in  northern  gardens, 
where  it  needs  shelter.     Plant   it  near   an   Olive   or 


80      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Cypress,  and  in  three  or  four  years  it  will  entirely 
cover  the  tree  with  a  mantle  of  delicate  sprays.  Its 
flowers,  lovely  in  shades  of  apricot  and  rose,  contrast 
brilliantly  with  its  apple-green  and  slender  foliage. 
It  is  only  a  spring  bloomer,  but  none  the  less  indis- 
pensable on  account  of  its  grace  and  beauty. 

R.  Cloth  of  Gold  or  Chromatella. — A  grand  Rose,  so 
rarely  seen  now  that  it  should  not  be  forgotten.  Its 
individual  blooms  are  unsurpassed  in  size  and  colour 
by  any  yellow  Rose,  and  its  December  flowers  are 
most  beautiful  of  all  when  in  a  rich  soil  and  sheltered 
position.  The  fact  that  its  lovely  buds  bruise  so 
easily,  and  that  it  is  a  special  prey  to  mildew,  are 
the  reasons  why  it  is  now  only  to  be  found  in  a  few 
gardens  where  it  is  extra  happy.  This  is  one  of  the 
Roses  for  which  this  coast  was  famous  until  the  advent 
of  Marechal  Niel  entirely  displaced  it. 

R.  Marechal  Niel. — "  Good  wine  needs  no  bush  " 
is  specially  applicable  to  this  grandest  of  all  yellow 
climbing  Roses,  for  it  advertises  itself  everywhere  in 
every  garden,  and  by  autumn  pruning  produces  even 
lovelier  flowers  in  December  than  can  be  seen  in  May 
when  grown  on  sunny  terraces.  For  Rose  arches  and 
arcades  it  is  indispensable,  and  contributes  largely  to 
the  effect  of  luxuriant  beauty.  What  a  pity  its  flowers 
do  not  hold  up  their  heads  as  R.  Chromatella  does. 

R.  Lamarque,  with  its  lemon-centred  and  lemon- 
scented  heads  of  flower,  is  the  finest  double  white 
climbing  Rose  yet  raised,  although  it  dates  from  sixty 
years  ago,  and  is  still  fresh,  young,  and  beautiful.  It 
blooms  so  well  in   late  autumn  and  again   in  early 


RIVIERA   GARDEN   ROSES  81 

April,  that  it  is  found  in  every  garden,  and  we  who 
come  out  from  England  have  a  special  admiration  for 
its  masses  of  white  flower,  because  it  refuses  to  show 
its  real  beauty  out  of  doors  in  England,  and  grows 
too  rampantly  when  under  glass. 

Old  Roses  are,  you  will  see,  all  my  theme,  so  I  feel 
no  compunction  in  saying  that  the  old  Rose,  Gloire  des 
Rosomanes,  semi-double  though  it  be,  is  the  only 
perfectly  perpetual  winter-blooming  climbing  red 
Rose  yet  raised.  It  is  the  only  old  Rose  that  is  never 
flowerless  throughout  the  severest  weather  on  this 
coast,  and  it  is  particularly  brilliant  and  fragrant  both 
in  autumn  and  in  spring  when  the  Banksian  Roses 
need  a  rich  red  to  contrast  with  their  white  and 
golden-buff  tones.  It  is  well  known  to  many  folk  as 
the  Bordighera  Rose,  though  I  do  not  know  it  is  more 
abundant  there  than  elsewhere.  One  of  its  seedlings, 
General  Jacqueminot,  is  a  household  word,  known 
and  grown  everywhere,  and  there  are  two  more  of 
its  seedlings  worth  mention — Bardou  Job,  which  has 
merit,  though  it  is  not  a  winter  bloomer,  and  also  the 
new  Noella  Nabonnand,  which  is  a  decided  advance 
in  size  and  beauty,  and  is  said  to  be  a  really  good 
winter-blooming  deep  red  Rose,  a  desideratum  in 
these  parts. 

We  all  know  the  brilliant  little  China  Rose  Cramoisi 
Sup^rieur,  but  somehow  I  never  saw  in  English 
gardens  a  good  specimen  of  its  variety  or  seedling 
Cramoisi  Grimpant,  and  this  latter  is  next  in  import- 
ance among  climbing  red  Roses,  for  it  will  climb  to 
fully  twenty  feet  high,  and  cover  itself  with  its  rich 

F 


82      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

crimson  flowers  all  the  winter  through  if  only  there 
be  no  frost.  For  hedges  and  pillars  this  is  most 
decorative  when  it  contrasts  with  the  Banksian  or 
Lamarque  Roses,  and  forms  a  splendidly  toned  back- 
ground to  all  light-coloured  Roses. 

Another  climbing  red  Rose  that  I  have  never  seen 
to  advantage  in  England  is  heavily  weighted  by  its 
senseless  name,  La  France  de  1889.  Nevertheless, 
it  is  a  very  large,  fragrant,  and  deep  rose-red  flower 
of  great  beauty,  which  makes  prodigious  shoots  in 
autumn,  and  flowers  by  degrees,  beginning  at  the  top 
in  December  and  continuing  to  do  so  lower  down  the 
long  shoots  throughout  the  season.  It  is  of  the  very 
largest  size,  fragrant,  and  double,  but  I  think  it  is 
capricious  in  some  gardens,  as  beauties  are  apt  to  be. 

A  Rose  much  seen  I  only  mention  to  reprobate 
in  this  climate,  that  is,  Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg, 
which  though  so  good  in  England  is  here  so  fleeting 
and  ugly  in  colour  that  I  regret  to  see  it,  even  though 
it  be  only  for  one  week  in  early  spring.  Not  so 
Marie  Lavall^e,  a  delightful  blush  pink,  semi-double 
climbing  Rose,  the  latest  and  the  earliest  of  its  colour, 
vigorous  and  fresh  in  every  way. 

Duchesse  de  Nemours  is  a  fragrant  and  bright  pink 
climber,  double,  and  of  fine  size  and  form,  which  is 
only  to  be  found  in  a  few  old  gardens,  but  is  far  too 
good  a  Rose  to  pass  by.  In  December,  and  again  in 
May,  it  will  produce  a  wonderful  effect.  It  seems  less 
easy  to  propagate  from  cuttings  than  other  Roses,  and 
is  to  be  found  in  only  one  nurseryman's  list,  but  I  am 
glad  to  say  its  merit  has  been  recognised,  and  a  stock 


RIVIERA   GARDEN   ROSES  83 

of  it  will,  I  believe,  soon  again  be  obtainable.  To  my 
fancy  it  is  far  preferable  to  the  deeper  coloured  Reine 
Marie  Henriette,  so  very  common  all  along  the 
Riviera,  and  which  in  December,  mingling  with  Reve 
d'Or,  has  a  great  charm,  even  if  it  be  not  the  very 
best  of  all. 

R.  La  Grifferaie,  which  we  seem  only  to  know  as  a 
stock  for  other  Roses,  is  a  very  brilliant  and  luxuriant 
climber  in  late  spring,  intensely  bright  pink  in  its 
clusters.  The  growth  and  foliage  of  this  Rose  are 
prodigious,  and  it  requires  a  large  space  to  do  itself 
justice  ;  were  it  perpetual  it  would  rank  as  one  of 
the  best.  Waltham  Climber  No.  3  shows  to  great 
advantage  on  this  coast.  Its  long  strong  shoots  are 
clothed  with  its  scarlet-crimson  flowers  early  in  spring, 
and  give  a  fair  sprinkling  of  blooms  continuously 
during  winter  when  grown  on  a  sunny  pergola. 

No  mention  has  been  made  of  Gloire  de  Dijon  and 
its  many  seedlings,  for  they  do  not  show  to  as  great 
advantage  as  in  more  northern  gardens. 

Belle  Lyonnaise  is  fairly  good,  but  there  is  one 
of  more  modern  date,  Duchesse  d'Auerstadt,  which 
proves  the  exception  to  the  rule,  and  is  most  excellent 
in  every  way.  From  its  growth  it  is  evidently  from 
Reve  d'Or  on  one  side,  and  is  quite  the  finest,  freest, 
and  best  of  all  golden-yellow  Tea  Roses  of  climbing 
habit.  It  will  no  doubt  entirely  displace  Reve  d'Or, 
being  its  superior  in  every  way,  and  this,  to  those  who 
know  that  old  Rose  on  this  coast,  is  saying  much. 

Noisette  Roses. — After  Lamarque,  which  has  already 
received  its  due  notice,  Jaune  Desprez  must  be  men- 


84      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH  GARDENS 

tioned  on  account  of  its  perfume  and  beauty  in 
spring.  Curiously  enough  it  is  not  always  a  winter 
bloomer,  but  it  still  luxuriantly  adorns  many  an  old 
garden. 

Id6al  is  essentially  a  Rose  for  this  coast.  In  spring 
it  even  rivals  Fortune's  Yellow,  but  it  comes  in  several 
weeks  later  and  is  deeper  in  its  rosy  tones.  Did  it  but 
bloom  at  all  in  winter  it  would  be  unsurpassable. 

Dr.  Rouges  is  the  most  intensely  brilliant  shade  of 
orange-red  that  I  know,  and  when  fully  proved  will  be 
invaluable  as  a  climber  when  its  winter  blooming  is 
established.  The  rich  claret-red  shoots  in  January 
are  almost  as  brilliant  as  any  flower  could  be. 

William  A.  Richardson  no  longer  climbs  here,  but 
flowers  splendidly  in  winter  as  a  straggling  bush. 

Pink  Rover  must  certainly  not  be  omitted  from 
the  list  of  climbing  Roses,  for  there  are  so  few  of  its 
fresh  and  lovely  shade  of  colour.  It  is  very  sweet- 
scented,  blooms  abundantly  before  Christmas,  and 
wherever  grown  is  at  once  a  favourite.  It  seems  to 
revel  in  the  conditions  here. 

Griiss  an  Teplitz,  a  seedling  between  Cramoisi 
Grimpant  and  Gloire  des  Rosomanes,  is  another 
very  delightful  semi-climbing  Rose  on  this  coast. 
Most  brilliant  red  in  colour,  sweet-scented  and  free, 
it  has  hardly  yet  been  sufficiently  planted,  so  its 
merits  are  not  fully  established. 

Hybrid  Teas  are  decidedly  the  most  in  vogue  now, 
owing  not  only  to  their  size  and  beauty,  but  to  the 
length  of  stalk  with  which  they  may  be  cut.  As 
garden   Roses   they   are   equally  valuable.      Caroline 


RIVIERA   GARDEN   ROSES  85 

Testout  entirely  takes  the  place  of  La  France,  which 
never  showed  itself  to  perfection  on  this  coast. 
Marquise  Litta  has  made  its  mark  also,  and  is  very 
rich  and  bright  in  colour  during  the  winter.  Gloire 
Lyonnaise  and  Captain  Christy  are  splendid  winter 
bloomers,  but  the  flowers  are  not  considered  so 
valuable  for  the  market.  Belle  Siebrecht  is  also 
becoming  a  very  popular  Rose,  while  Mme.  Jules 
Grolez  is  considered  worthless,  for  its  petals  are  soft 
and  easily  spoilt,  and  it  does  not  grow  with  anything 
like  the  same  vigour.  There  is  no  doubt  that  many 
of  the  Roses  that  do  well  in  English  gardens  do  not 
enjoy  a  more  southern  climate,  and  it  is  curious  to 
remark  how  the  descriptions  of  French  raisers  refer 
generally  to  Roses  grown  in  a  hotter  climate  than 
England,  so  that  their  descriptions  are  not  so  likely 
to  mislead  in  the  south  as  those  in  the  north  are  apt 
to  imagine. 

Hybrid  Perpetual  Roses  are  little  grown,  and  are 
chiefly  used  for  late  autumn  cutting  out  of  doors. 
For  the  first  three  months  of  the  year  they  are  now 
flowered  under  glass,  so  that  they  can  be  cut  with 
the  long  stems  required  in  France.  I  need  only 
mention  Paul  Neyron  (so  fine  in  December),  Ulrich 
Brunner,  Baroness  Rothschild,  Mrs.  John  Laing, 
General  Jacqueminot,  and  Eclair  as  the  best  and 
most  useful  here.  The  growth  of  Roses  under  glass 
for  market  in  January,  February,  and  early  March 
has  become  a  great  industry,  and  is  largely  displacing 
the  hardy  winter-blooming  Teas  grown  on  the  sunny 
terraces. 


86      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Tea  Roses,  which  not  only  bear  but  enjoy  the  sum- 
mer heat  and  drought,  flowering  freely  in  November 
and  December  after  the  autumn  rains  and  pruning, 
are  cultivated  not  only  in  gardens,  but  as  a  field 
crop,  and  the  December  crop  of  bloom  is  the  most 
valuable,  so  that  everything  yields  to  that.  To  name 
any  but  the  most  valuable  is  unnecessary  here, 
and,  roughly  speaking,  Nabonnand's  catalogue  of  his 
own  seedlings  represents  what  has  been  most  grown 
during  the  last  twenty  years.  Of  these,  however, 
many  are  obsolete. 

Isabelle  Nabonnand  is  one  of  the  few  really  good 
winter  Roses  I  have  never  seen  grown  in  England. 
One  of  the  oldest,  it  still  is  worth  growing  in  any 
garden.  Its  blush-centred  white  blooms  are  fairly 
double,  and  yet  open  freely  through  the  winter. 

General  Schablikine  has  at  last  found  its  way  to 
England.  For  many  years  this  was  the  only  rose- 
coloured  Tea  to  be  depended  on  in  winter.  Now 
that  glass  is  so  much  used,  and  larger  and  longer 
stalked  blooms  are  required,  it  is  only  used  as 
a  decorative  garden  Rose.  Marie  Van  Houtte  is 
another  old  Rose  that  is  gradually  being  superseded, 
as  its  flowers  obstinately  refuse  to  hold  up  their 
heads,  but  its  beauty  and  freedom  make  it  indispens- 
able in  the  winter  garden.  Paul  Nabonnand  has  for 
some  years  reigned  supreme  from  the  beauty  and 
freedom  of  its  pale  pink  blooms  in  December.  It  is 
the  Rose  that  with  Schablikine  produces  the  most 
summer-like  effect  during  the  winter.  Fiametta  Nabon- 
nand is  a  very  good  flesh- white  Rose,  as  indeed  are  all 


/#, 


Lv] 


v 


<^r 


HYBRID  TEA   ROSE  ANTOINE  RIVOIRE;  BLUSH  AND  YELLOW 
TINTING,  ROSE  CENTRE,  4  inches. 


RIVIERA   GARDEN   ROSES  87 

those  that  are  named  after  the  Nabonnand  family, 
particularly  for  winter  blooming.  Papa  Gontier,  so 
bold  in  growth,  so  rich  in  petal,  is  the  most  useful 
of  all  winter  Roses  for  cut  bloom.  Its  size  and 
brilliant  rose-pink  colour  are  remarkable  in  this 
climate.  I  have  never  seen  it  in  its  true  character 
in  England.  The  fields  and  hedges  of  Safrano,  the 
first  of  all  winter-blooming  Roses,  deserve  a  passing 
mention,  though  now,  save  as  a  hedge  Rose,  it  is 
not  worth  a  place.  Its  abundance  of  flowers  about 
Christmastide  is  its  chief  attraction,  and  at  that  season 
it  is  still  sent  in  quantity  to  northern  cities. 

Antoine  Rivoire  is  the  Rose  that  has  made  a  mark 
lately,  both  in  the  garden  and  in  the  grower's  ground. 
Its  beauty  and  fresh  pink  and  white  colouring  (white 
in  December),  and  its  fine  vigorous  stems  crowned 
with  bold  upright  flowers,  have  at  once  raised  it  to 
high  favour.  It  looks  as  if  it  were  a  cross  between 
Captain  Christy  and  some  old  Tea  like  Rubens,  and 
is  better  than  either.  Mme.  Cadeau  Ramey  is  a 
very  sweet  and  lovely  garden  Rose,  but  has  not  as 
yet  at  all  the  same  vogue,  being  of  the  Devoniensis 
type. 

The  China  Roses  and  Hybrid  Chinas  do  not  find 
favour  here,  they  are  too  fleeting  and  too  thin,  and 
Tea  Roses  give  us  more  beauty.  For  instance,  Beaute 
Inconstante,  a  Tea,  has  not  only  even  more  brilliant 
orange-scarlet  tones  than  any  hybrid  China,  but 
it  is  so  free  and  hardy,  as  well  as  solid  in  petal, 
that  it  puts  to  shame  its  cousins  that  are  so  welcome 
in  northern  gardens. 


88      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Cramoisi  SupeYieur  is  lovely  as  a  dwarf  hedge, 
but  is  not  nearly  so  good  a  winter  bloomer  as  the 
climbing  form  Cramoisi  Grimpant ;  so  it  is  in  hedge- 
rows and  avenues  that  the  glowing  masses  of  this 
are  seen  in  company  with  the  pale  pink  Indica  Major, 
which  here  takes  the  place  of  the  Hawthorn  hedge. 


PART    II 

PLANTING,    PRUNING,    AND    PROPAGATING 

ROSES;  EXHIBITING,  GROWING  UNDER 

GLASS,    ETC. 

By   EDWARD   MAWLEY 


A    STANDARD  JULES  MARGOTTIN  (H.P.) 


CHAPTER    XVII 

PLANTING  ROSES 

To  hasty  or  otherwise  improper  planting  may  be  more 
often  traced  the  unsatisfactory  condition  of  Roses  in 
gardens  large  or  small  than  to  all  other  causes  put 
together.  The  term  "  planting  "  as  here  used  is  a  com- 
prehensive one,  as  it  is  intended  to  include  the  choice 
of  the  position  of  the  Rose  garden,  the  preparation 
of  the  beds,  as  well  as  the  actual  planting  of  the 
Roses  themselves.  This  question,  then,  of  planting, 
is  one  of  supreme  importance. 

Position. — The  best  site  for  Roses  is  an  open  yet 
sheltered  one,  though  as  little  shut  in  by  trees  or 
buildings  as  may  be.  On  the  other  hand  it  must  not 
be  too  much  exposed,  for  although  Roses  delight  in  a 
free  atmosphere  they  have  a  great  objection  to  be  fre- 
quently swept  by  high  winds.  Shelter  from  the  north 
and  east  is  most  necessary,  but  exposure  to  strong 
winds  from  almost  any  quarter  is  undesirable.  Bear- 
ing these  facts  in  mind,  the  position  best  complying 
with  them  should  be  chosen,  and,  if  necessary,  a  high 
hedge  or  belt  of  trees  be  planted  on  the  side  where 
shelter  is  most  needed.  Care  must  however  be  taken 
that  this  hedge,  or  tree  belt,  is  sufficiently  distant 
from  the  Roses  to  prevent  the  possibility  of  its  roots 
finding  their  way  at  some  future  time  into  the  Rose 


92      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

beds.  One  of  the  best  hedges  for  the  purpose  may 
be  formed  of  the  common  Arbor-vitae,  as  it  is  of 
tolerably  quick  growth,  makes  an  excellent  screen, 
and  its  roots  extend  but  a  short  distance  on  each 
side.  Wherever  it  is  possible  Roses  should  be  allowed 
a  separate  bed  or  beds  to  themselves,  and  not  be 
planted  with  other  flowers.  Where  it  is  intended  to 
grow  a  large  number  of  Rose  plants,  beds  might  with 
advantage  be  made  in  the  virgin  soil  of  some  paddock 
or  other  piece  of  pasture  land,  such  as  may  frequently 
be  found  adjoining  country  gardens. 

Soil. — A  deep,  strong  loam  is  the  very  best  soil  for 
Roses — land  on  which  an  exceptionally  good  crop  of 
wheat  could  be  grown.  But  as  this  ideal  soil  for  a 
Rose  garden  is  seldom  to  be  found  ready  to  hand,  an 
endeavour  must  be  made  to  supply  the  existing  soil 
with  those  ingredients  and  physical  qualities  in  which 
it  is  most  deficient.  For  instance,  should  it  be  a 
stiff  clay,  it  must,  if  necessary,  be  drained.  If  not 
so  retentive  as  to  require  draining,  a  liberal  quantity 
of  burnt  earth  and  long  stable  manure,  sand,  &c, 
must  be  incorporated  with  it.  If  on  the  other  hand 
the  existing  soil  be  too  light  and  porous,  some  heavier 
loam  should  be  mixed  with  it,  and  cow  instead  of 
stable  manure  introduced.  If  on  examination  the  soil 
be  found  not  only  porous  but  also  shallow,  some 
of  the  chalk,  gravel,  or  sand  beneath  must  be  entirely 
removed  and  replaced  by  the  heaviest  soil,  not  absolute 
clay,  obtainable  in  the  neighbourhood. 

The  Preparation  of  a  Rose  Bed. — When  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  bed  is  completed  it  should  contain  suitable 


PLANTING   ROSES  93 

and  well-enriched  soil  to  the  depth  of  at  least 
two  feet.  Roses  prefer  a  somewhat  stiff  soil,  and  yet 
not  one  so  retentive  as  to  prevent  any  superfluous 
moisture  from  passing  readily  away  from  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  their  roots.  In  a  soil  which  is  too  light 
the  plants  are  unable  to  avail  themselves  as  they 
should  of  the  nourishment  brought  down  to  their 
roots  by  rain  or  artificial  watering.  Such  soils  more- 
over become  unduly  heated  in  hot  and  dry  weather — 
whereas,  above  everything,  Roses  delight  in  a  con- 
sistently cool  root-run.  Soils  which  quickly  feel  the 
changes  of  temperature  above  ground  from  cold  to 
heat  and  heat  to  cold  cannot  be  regarded  as  suitable 
for  Roses. 

In  the  case  of  a  moderately  good  Rose  soil  the  beds 
should  be  thus  prepared.  The  earth  from  one  end  of 
the  bed  should  be  removed  to  the  depth  of  a  foot, 
and  three  feet  wide,  and  wheeled  to  some  spot  close 
to  the  other  end  of  it.  Having  taken  out  this  trench, 
the  bed  should  then  be  bastard-trenched  throughout 
to  the  depth  of  two  feet ;  that  is  to  say,  it  should  be 
dug  over,  but  none  of  the  lower  soil  brought  to  the 
surface.  When  performing  this  operation  a  liberal 
quantity  of  manure — farmyard  manure  for  preference 
— should  be  incorporated  with  the  soil,  filling  in  the 
last  trench  with  the  earth  which  had  been  previously 
wheeled  there.  This  will  make  a  Rose  bed  sufficiently 
good  for  all  ordinary  purposes.  Should,  however, 
the  bed  be  required  for  Roses  intended  to  produce 
exhibition  blooms,  it  will  be  well  to  loosen  the  soil 
with   a  fork  at  the   bottom  of  each  trench,  and  on 


94      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

this  loosened  soil  to  place,  grass  downwards,  the  top 
spit  of  an  old  pasture.  Then  in  addition  to  the  farm- 
yard manure  some  half-inch  bones  should  be  mixed 
evenly  with  the  soil  as  the  trenching  proceeds,  together 
with  some  turfy  loam,  for  there  is  nothing  which  will 
so  greatly  improve  almost  any  soil  for  Roses  as  a 
liberal  supply  of  fibrous  loam.  If  possible  the  beds 
should  be  completed  in  August  or  September,  so  that 
the  soil  in  them  may  have  some  chance  of  settling 
down  before  the  Rose  plants  are  ready  for  removal  to 
their  new  quarters  in  November. 

Staking  out  the  Beds. — As  soon  as  the  preparation 
of  the  bed  is  completed  it  will  be  well  to  make  a  rough 
plan  of  it  on  paper  and  indicate  upon  it  the  position 
that  each  Rose  is  intended  to  occupy.  This  can 
readily  be  done  by  arranging  that  the  dwarf  plants 
be  two  feet  and  the  standards  three  feet  apart.  These 
distances  will  answer  admirably  for  plants  intended 
for  the  production  of  exhibition  blooms  ;  but  for  Roses 
for  ordinary  garden  or  home  decoration  the  distances 
between  the  plants  might  with  advantage  be  increased 
to  two  feet  six  inches  for  dwarfs  and  to  three  feet 
six  inches  for  standards.  In  the  case  of  varieties 
described  in  the  catalogues  as  "  very  vigorous,"  and 
which  are  intended  to  be  grown  as  bushes,  the  plants 
must  be  five  or  even  six  feet  apart. 

The  Treatment  of  Rose  Plants  when  received  from  the 
Nurseries.— When  unpacking  Roses,  care  should  be 
taken  that  neither  the  roots  nor  the  branches  are 
injured,  and  on  no  account  should  the  roots  be 
allowed   to   become   in   any  way   dry.      As  soon   as 


PLANTING   ROSES  95 

separated,  the  plants  should  be  "heeled  in"  ;  that  is  to 
say,  a  shallow  trench  should  be  made  in  the  kitchen 
garden  or  other  convenient  spot,  and  the  roots  of 
the  new  Rose  plants  be  placed  in  it,  and  afterwards 
watered  and  completely  covered  with  soil.  When 
heeling  the  plants  in,  it  will  be  advisable  to  place  them 
in  the  trench  in  the  order  in  which  they  are  to  be 
afterwards  arranged  in  the  beds,  so  that  the  required 
varieties  may  be  readily  removed  from  the  trench  as 
they  are  wanted  without  disturbing  the  rest.  If  the 
weather  be  frosty  at  the  time  the  plants  arrive,  it  will 
be  well  not  to  unpack  them  at  all,  but  to  leave  them 
in  their  straw  bundles  until  the  weather  changes  and 
they  can  be  properly  heeled  in.  If  for  any  reason  the 
package  be  unduly  delayed  in  transit  and  the  bark  on 
the  shoots  presents  a  shrivelled  appearance,  a  deeper 
trench  should  be  dug,  and  the  plants,  branches  and 
all,  placed  lengthways  in  it  and  completely  buried. 
When  removed  from  the  trench  in  three  days'  time  the 
shoots  will  be  found  to  have  recovered  their  freshness. 
The  Actual  Planting. — This  can  be  undertaken  at  any 
time  between  the  beginning  of  November  and  the 
end  of  March,  but  the  best  time  of  all  is  early  in 
November.  Should  the  ground  be  sodden  or  frozen 
when  the  Roses  arrive,  the  planting  must  be  deferred 
until  in  the  one  case  the  superfluous  moisture  has 
passed  into  the  subsoil,  and  in  the  other  until  the 
frost  is  quite  out  of  the  ground.  In  order  to  prevent 
the  exposure  of  the  roots  to  sunshine  or  drying  winds 
it  will  be  a  good  plan  to  take  only  a  few  plants  at  a  time 
from  the  place  where  they  have  been  heeled  in  and 


96      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

to  place  a  mat  over  them  when  brought  to  the  side  of 
the  bed.  A  square  hole  for  each  plant  should  be 
made,  not  more  than  six  inches  deep  and  sufficiently 
large  to  hold  the  roots  when  spread  out  horizontally. 
A  plant  should  then  be  taken  from  beneath  the  mat- 
ting and  placed  in  the  hole,  taking  care  to  spread  out 
the  roots  evenly  all  round.  Some  fine  soil,  free  from 
manure,  should  next  be  worked  with  the  hand  between 
the  roots  and  above  them  to  the  depth  of  three  inches, 
and  afterwards  trodden  down  with  moderate  firmness, 
so  as  not  to  bruise  the  roots.  After  adding  more  soil, 
that  in  the  hole  should  again  be  pressed  down,  more 
firmly  this  time,  and  a  final  treading  given  when  the 
hole  is  filled  up.  Firm  planting  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  to  the  after  welfare  of  the  plants.  In 
planting  Roses  intended  for  exhibition,  or  where  extra 
attention  can  be  given  them,  it  will  be  well  to  place  a 
little  leaf-mould  at  the  bottom  of  each  hole,  and  to 
work  in,  among  and  above  the  roots,  a  few  inches  of 
the  same  material  instead  of  the  fine  soil.  Failing 
leaf-mould,  some  finely  chopped  fibrous  loam  may  be 
used  ;  if  of  a  somewhat  gritty  nature  so  much  the 
better.  In  each  case  a  small  handful  of  bone-dust 
should  be  sprinkled  over  the  layer  of  leaf-mould 
or  fibrous  loam.  The  principal  advantage  of  these 
additions  is  that  they  enable  the  plants  to  become 
more  quickly  established,  and  also  allow  of  the 
planting  being  proceeded  with,  when,  owing  to  the 
wet  nature  of  the  soil  in  the  beds,  it  would  not  be 
otherwise  practicable.  No  manure  should  be  allowed 
to  come  in  contact  with  the  roots  themselves  at  the 


3p 


METHOD  OF  PLANTING  DWARF  AND  STANDARD  ROSES. 


PLANTING    ROSES  97 

time  of  planting.  The  roots  when  they  become  active 
will  soon  find  out  the  manure  and  appreciate  it,  but 
in  a  dormant  state  it  is  more  like  poison  than  food  to 
them. 

Planting  Climbing  or  Pillar  Roses. — These  strong 
growing  varieties  are  often  treated  as  if  they  could 
take  care  of  themselves  and  therefore  required  less 
care  in  planting  than  other  Roses,  whereas  the  con- 
trary is  the  case.  The  hole  made  to  receive  them 
should  be  two  feet  six  inches  square  and  two  feet 
deep.  The  existing  soil,  if  fairly  good,  should  be 
enriched  with  a  liberal  addition  of  farmyard  manure, 
and  the  planting  proceeded  with  as  described  in  the 
previous  paragraph.  If  the  natural  soil,  however,  be 
poor  and  thin  some  of  this  should  be  removed 
altogether  and  better  soil  substituted.  The  reason 
why  these  extra  vigorous  Roses  require  a  larger 
quantity  of  good  soil  is  because  the  roots  have  to 
support  a  much  larger  plant,  and  as  a  rule  they  are 
intended  to  occupy  the  same  position  for  a  great 
number  of  years. 

Staking  and  Labelling. — All  standard  Roses  should 
be  firmly  staked  as  soon  as  planted,  or  better  still,  the 
stake  should  be  driven  into  the  centre  of  the  hole 
made  to  receive  the  Rose  before  the  latter  is  planted. 
The  upper  part  of  the  climbing  Roses  should  be  also 
fastened  either  to  the  support  up  which  they  are 
intended  to  be  trained  or  to  a  temporary  stake  at  the 
time  of  planting.  Ordinary  dwarf  Roses  will  not 
require  staking  if  planted  firmly  as  directed,  and  if 
any  extra  long  shoots  they  may  have  are  shortened. 


98      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

All  Roses  as  soon  as  planted  should  be  labelled. 
Permanent  metal  labels  may  be  obtained  already 
stamped  with  the  name  of  almost  any  Rose  of 
Mr.  J.  Pinches,  3  Crown  Buildings,  Crown  Street, 
Camberwell,  S.E. 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

PRUNING   ROSES 

There  are  few  things  connected  with  Rose  culture 
so  little  understood  by  amateurs  and  gardeners 
generally  as  pruning ;  and  it  must  be  acknowledged 
that  the  number  of  different  kinds  of  Roses,  and  the 
very  different  treatment  many  of  them  require  at  the 
hands  of  the  pruner,  cannot  but  make  this  operation 
seem  at  first  sight  a  very  puzzling  one.  The  following 
simple  directions  will,  however,  serve  to  show  that 
it  is  not  nearly  so  complicated  as  it  is  generally 
thought  to  be. 

Mr.  W.  F.  Cooling,  in  an  excellent  paper  read 
before  the  National  Rose  Society  in  1898,  very 
cleverly  separates  the  numerous  classes  of  Roses  into 
two  broad  and  distinct  divisions.  In  the  first  of  these 
divisions  he  places  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas, 
and  Teas — all  of  which  (the  climbing  varieties  alone 
excepted)  require  more  or  less  hard  pruning  ;  while 
in  the  second  division  we  find  the  Hybrid  Sweet-briers, 
the  Austrian  Briers,  all  the  extra  vigorous  and  climb- 
ing Roses  and  many  garden  or  decorative  Roses, 
which,  although  of  comparatively  dwarf  habit,  need 
little  spring  pruning,  or  none  at  all. 

Before  proceeding  to  treat  of  the  various  kinds 
of  Roses  more  in  detail  it  may  be  well  to  point  out 


ioo     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

a  few  considerations  which  apply  to  the  art  of  prun- 
ing generally.  In  the  first  place,  the  object  of 
pruning  is  to  add  increased  vigour  to  the  plant,  and 
at  the  same  time  to  regulate  its  growth.  It  is  difficult 
to  understand  at  first,  but  nevertheless  perfectly  true, 
that  the  more  severely  a  Rose  plant  is  pruned  the 
stronger  will  be  the  shoots  which  result  from  that 
apparently  murderous  treatment.  There  is  also 
another  general  rule  which  naturally  arises  out  of 
the  foregoing,  and  that  is  the  weaker  the  plant  the 
more  closely  it  should  be  cut  back,  and  the  more 
vigorous  it  is  the  longer  should  the  shoots  be  left. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  pruning  consists  of  two  operations 
which  are  altogether  distinct.  Firstly,  thinning  out 
all  the  decayed,  crowded  and  otherwise  useless  shoots; 
secondly,  the  pruning  proper,  that  is  to  say,  the 
shortening  back  of  the  shoots  that  remain  after  the  thin- 
ning-out process  has  been  completed.  There  is  no  Rose 
that  does  not  from  time  to  time  require  some  thinning 
out,  but  there  are  many  which  require  very  little,  if 
any,  shortening  back.  When  removing  the  useless 
shoots  they  should  be  cut  clean  out,  either  down  to 
the  base  of  the  plant  or  to  the  shoot  from  which 
they  spring,  as  the  case  may  be.  Then  again,  in  the 
case  of  dwarf  or  bush  Roses,  the  pruner  has  to  decide 
whether  he  requires  a  small  number  of  extra  large 
flowers  or  a  larger  number  of  moderate-sized  ones. 
If  the  former,  both  the  thinning  out  and  pruning 
must  be  severe,  whereas  in  the  other  case  rather  more 
shoots  should  be  allowed  to  remain,  and  these  may 
be  left  longer.     After  a  very  cold  winter  the  pruner 


f\ 


PRUNING   ROSES  101 

will  find  that,  except  in  the  case  of  quite  hardy 
varieties,  he  has  little  choice  in  the  matter  of  pruning, 
the  keen  knife  of  the  frost  having  come  before  him 
and  already  pruned  his  Roses  after  its  own  ruthless 
fashion.  In  this  case  all  the  dead  shoots  should  be 
cut  away,  and  those  that  remain  be  afterwards 
examined.  At  first  sight  they  may  appear  altogether 
uninjured,  but  on  cutting  them  it  will  be  seen  that 
scarcely  any  sound  wood  is  anywhere  to  be  found. 
The  best  test  of  frost  injuries  is  the  colour  of  the  pith. 
If  this  be  white,  cream-coloured,  or  even  slightly 
stained,  the  wood  may  be  regarded  as  sufficiently 
sound  to  cut  back  to,  but  if  the  pith  be  brown 
sounder  wood  must  be  sought  for,  even  if  this  be 
only  met  with  beneath  the  surface  of  the  beds. 

Armed  with  a  pruning  knife,  which  should  be  of 
medium  size  and  kept  always  with  a  keen  edge,  an 
easy  pair  of  gardening  gloves,  a  hone  on  which  to 
sharpen  the  knife,  and  a  kneeling  pad,  the  primer 
will  require  nothing  more  except  a  small  saw,  which 
will  prove  of  great  service  in  removing  extra  large 
shoots  and  dead  stumps.  A  really  good  secateur  may 
be  used  instead  of  a  knife  if  preferred.  In  pruning,  the 
cut  should  be  always  made  almost  immediately  above 
a  dormant  bud  pointing  outwards.  In  all  but  an 
exhibitor's  garden  the  best  time  to  prune  Roses  is 
early  in  April. 

i.  Roses  which  require  to  be  more  or  less  closely 
pruned. — Under  this  heading  is  included  at  least 
three-fourths   of  the    Roses   most   frequently   grown 


102     ROSES   FOR    ENGLISH   GARDENS 

in  gardens  at  the  present  time  as  dwarf  plants.  All 
the  weak  and  moderate  -  growing  varieties  must  be 
pruned  hard  each  year,  and  also  all  plants,  with  few 
exceptions,  intended  for  the  production  of  extra 
large  flowers.  But  those  Roses  which  have  been 
planted  for  the  decoration  of  the  garden,  or  for  the 
production  of  cut  flowers,  need  not  be  so  severely 
dealt  with,  while  those  planted  as  Rose  bushes  will 
require  comparatively  light  pruning. 

Hybrid  Perpetuate. — The  first  year  after  planting 
all  the  dead,  sappy  and  weakly  shoots  should  be  cut 
clean  out,  and  those  remaining  left  from  three  to  six 
inches  in  length,  whatever  the  variety  may  be.  This 
hard  pruning  is  necessary  the  first  spring,  but  in  the 
following  years  it  need  not  be  so  severe.  The  dead, 
sappy,  weakly  and  worn-out  shoots  should,  as  before, 
be  cut  clean  out,  also  some  of  the  older  ones  and 
any  others  where  they  are  too  crowded,  more  par- 
ticularly those  in  the  centre  of  the  plant.  The  object 
kept  in  view  should  be  an  even  distribution  of  the 
shoots  allowed  to  remain  over  the  entire  plant,  except 
in  the  centre,  which  should  be  kept  fairly  open  to 
admit  light  and  air.  In  pruning,  the  shoots  may  be 
left  from  three  inches  to  one  foot  in  length,  according 
to  the  condition  of  the  wood,  the  strength  of  the 
plant,  and  the  object  for  which  the  blooms  are 
required.  Provided  that  the  frosts  of  the  previous 
winter  months  will  allow,  that  the  plants  are  suffi- 
ciently strong,  and  that  the  shoots  are  not  permitted 
to  become  in  any  way  crowded,  the  upper  shoots 
may  be  as  much  as  three  feet  above  the  ground.     In 


PRUNING   ROSES  103 

this  way  good-sized  bushes  may  in  a  few  years  be 
obtained,  which  will  form  handsome  objects  in  the 
garden  and  yield  a  large  number  of  good  flowers. 
By  similar  treatment  the  more  vigorous  varieties  in 
this  and  other  sections  may  be  induced  to  become 
pillar  Roses,  or  even  to  climb  some  distance  up 
a  wall.  It  is  the  want  of  hardiness  in  many  of  the 
Roses  of  the  present  day,  that  are  usually  grown  as 
dwarf  plants,  which  alone  stands  in  the  way  of  their 
suitability  for  the  formation  of  handsome  bushes 
or  for  their  employment  as  climbers  and  pillar 
Roses. 

Hybrid  Teas. — The  pruning  of  the  Hybrid  Teas 
should  be  carried  out  on  similar  lines  to  those  re- 
commended for  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  only  it  should 
be  less  severe.  Indeed,  in  the  case  of  varieties  like 
La  France,  which  are  of  sufficiently  strong  growth 
to  allow  of  this  being  done,  better  results  are  obtained 
by  moderate  thinning  out,  and  rather  light  pruning,  as 
is  recommended  in  the  case  of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals, 
where  good-sized  bushes  are  required. 

Teas  and  Noisettes. — Owing  to  the  tender  character 
of  their  shoots,  it  is  only  after  a  mild  winter  that  the 
pruner  has  much  choice  in  the  method  of  pruning. 
In  any  case,  all  the  decayed,  weak,  and  sappy  shoots 
should  be  cut  clean  out,  and  where  there  are  enough 
sound  shoots  left  they  should  be  shortened  back  one- 
half  their  length. 

Bourbons. — The  Bourbons  should  be  pruned  in  the 
same  way  as  advised  for  the  strong-growing  varieties 
of  the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas. 


io4     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Provence,  Moss,  and  China.  —  These  hardy  Roses 
should  be  well  thinned  out,  to  prevent  their  growths 
becoming  crowded,  and  the  remaining  shoots  short- 
ened one-half  their  length. 

2.    Roses  which  require  very  little  pruning. — To 

whatever  section  a  Rose  may  belong,  if  it  be  grown  as 
a  climber,  or  as  an  arch  or  pillar,  it  will  not  do  to 
cut  it  back  hard,  or  it  will  bear  but  few  if  any  flowers. 
But  there  are  also  certain  other  Roses  which,  although 
not  of  extra  strong  growth,  will  not  flower  satisfac- 
torily if  cut  back  at  all  severely.  It  is  by  cutting  away 
the  flowering  wood  of  such  kinds  that  the  greatest 
mistakes  in  pruning  usually  occur. 

Climbing,  Pillar,  and  other  strong-growing  Roses. — 
In  the  spring  these  need  very  little  attention  beyond 
securing  the  best  shoots  in  the  positions  they  are 
required  to  occupy,  and  to  shorten  back  or  remove 
altogether  any  other  shoots  which  may  not  be  re- 
quired at  all.  Within  July,  however,  all  these  strong- 
growing  Roses  should  be  examined,  and  every  year 
some  of  the  shoots  which  have  flowered  be  entirely 
removed  and  the  best  of  the  strong  young  growths 
encouraged  to  take  their  place,  cutting  out  altogether 
those  not  needed.  The  object  of  thinning  out  the 
shoots  that  have  flowered,  and  tying  or  laying  in  the 
strong  young  shoots  of  the  current  year,  is  to  enable 
the  latter  to  make  better  growth,  and  by  exposure 
to  light  and  air  to  become  ripened  before  the  winter 
sets  in. 

Austrian  Briers. — Beyond  removing  the  dead,   in- 


PRUNING   ROSES  105 

jured,  and  worn-out  shoots,  the  Austrian  Briers  should 
not  be  touched  at  all  with  the  knife. 

Scotch  Briers. — These  require  similar  treatment  to 
the  Austrian  Briers. 

Hybrid  Sweet-briers.  —  The  Sweet-briers  need  no 
spring  pruning  at  all ;  but  in  July,  after  flowering,  it 
will  be  well  to  cut  out  some  of  the  older  shoots  where 
crowded,  in  order  to  give  the  younger  ones  a  chance 
of  making  better  growth. 

Pompon. — The  free -flowering  miniature  Pompon 
Roses  should  have  their  shoots  well  thinned  out,  and 
those  left  shortened  one-half  their  length. 

Rugosa  or  Japanese  Roses. — This  hardy  section  re- 
quires but  little  pruning.  Some  of  the  old  and 
crowded  shoots  should  be  entirely  removed,  and 
the  younger  growths  either  tied  in  or  moderately 
shortened. 

Banksia. — The  pruning  of  this  particular  class  of 
Rose  differs  somewhat  from  that  of  nearly  all  the 
climbers  in  that  they  require  but  little  thinning.  After 
flowering,  the  strong  shoots  of  the  present  year's 
growth  not  required  to  furnish  the  plant  should  be 
removed,  and  the  rest  of  them  tied  in  and  slightly 
shortened.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  cut  away 
the  twiggy  growths,  as  the  flowers  are  borne  on  these 
laterals. 

Gallica  or  French  Roses. — Only  the  striped  varieties 
in  this  class  are  now  grown.  They  should  be  pruned 
in  the  same  way  as  recommended  for  the  Provence 
Roses. 

Single-flowered  Roses. — As  these  belong  to  so  many 


106     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

different  sections,  it  is  impossible  to  give  the  exact 
treatment  all  of  them  require.  Those  of  vigorous 
growth  should  be  pruned  as  advised  for  other  Climb- 
ing and  Pillar  Roses,  while  the  bush  and  dwarf 
varieties  should  be  only  thinned  out,  and  the  points 
of  the  remaining  shoots  removed.  The  few  dwarf 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  bearing  single  flowers  should, 
however,  be  rather  severely  pruned. 

Pegging  down  Roses. — When  suitable  varieties  are 
selected,  this  way  of  growing  Roses  in  beds  has  much 
to  commend  itself ;  indeed,  in  no  other  way  can  such 
a  number  of  blooms  of  the  larger-flowered  Roses  like 
the  Hybrid  Perpetuals  be  obtained  from  the  same 
number  of  plants.  In  the  spring  only  a  few  of  the 
longest  and  best  shoots  on  each  plant  should  be  re- 
tained. After  cutting  off  just  the  ends  of  these  long 
shoots  they  should  be  carefully  bent  and  pegged  down 
to  within  a  few  inches  of  the  soil.  In  the  following 
spring  the  shoots  that  have  flowered  should  be  cut 
away,  and  the  strong  young  growths  pegged  down 
in  their  place. 


CATHERINE  MERMET  (T.)\  LIGHT  ROSY  FLESH  COLOUR. 


CHAPTER    XIX 

PROPAGATION    OF    ROSES 

There  are  several  other  ways  of  propagating  Roses, 
but  the  one  most  frequently  employed  and  the  most 
satisfactory  is  by  budding. 

Dwarf  Stocks. — Many  people  imagine  that  all  the 
dwarf  or  bush  Roses  they  see  in  gardens  are  growing 
on  their  own  roots,  whereas  in  ninety-nine  cases  out 
of  a  hundred  the  roots  of  the  plants  are  those  of 
some  Brier  stock.  The  three  stocks  most  in  favour 
at  the  present  time  are  the  Brier-cutting,  the  seedling 
Brier,  and  the  Manetti. 

The  only  difference  between  the  Brier-cutting  and 
seedling  Brier  is  that  the  former  is  obtained  by 
making  cuttings  of  the  ordinary  hedgerow  Brier, 
while  the  latter  is  the  result  of  sowing  the  seed  of 
that  Brier.  They  are  both  excellent  stocks,  and  there 
are  scarcely  any  Roses  which  will  not  unite  with 
and  grow  well  on  either  of  them.  The  roots  of  the 
Brier-cutting  are  thrown  out  more  horizontally  than 
those  of  the  seedling  Brier,  and  are  therefore  more 
accessible  to  light  and  air  and  to  any  liquid  or  other 
surface  nourishment  that  may  be  given  them.  On 
the  other  hand  the  downward  tendency  of  the  nume- 
rous roots  of  the  seedling  Brier  enables  the  Roses 
budded  on  it  to  withstand  drought  better,  and  it  is 


108     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

if  anything  the  more  permanent  stock  of  the  two. 
The  Manetti  stock  answers  well  in  some  parts  of  the 
country,  such  as  the  northern  districts  of  England, 
and  on  certain  soils,  but  cannot  be  so  generally 
recommended  as  the  other  two  stocks  that  have  been 
mentioned.  In  most  cases  the  roots  of  the  Manetti, 
which  is  a  foreign  Brier,  gradually  decay,  and  the 
Rose  budded  on  it,  after  a  time,  either  dies  outright 
or  is  kept  alive  by  the  roots  thrown  out  round  the 
collar  of  the  plant  by  the  Rose  itself.  It  has  another 
great  defect  in  that  the  foliage  of  the  Manetti  is  not 
easily  distinguishable  from  that  of  many  cultivated 
Roses,  so  that  the  suckers  from  this  stock  often  pass 
unnoticed.  Indeed  one  seldom  goes  into  any  ordinary 
garden  without  meeting  with  these  suckers.  In  many 
cases  the  Rose  has  entirely  disappeared,  and  the  shoots 
of  the  stock  alone  remain. 

It  is  not  necessary  to  explain  the  method  of  raising 
any  of  these  dwarf  stocks,  as  all  three  can  be  obtained 
early  in  the  autumn  at  a  cheap  rate  from  any  Rose 
nurseryman.  As  soon  as  they  arrive  they  should  be 
planted  one  foot  apart  and  three  feet  between  the 
rows.  For  the  "convenience  of  budding  they  should 
be  planted  only  about  four  inches  deep  and  after- 
wards earthed  up  like  potatoes  as  far  as  the  main 
stem  extends. 

Standard  Stocks. — The  only  stock  used  for  standards, 
half-standards,  and  dwarf  standards  is  the  hedgerow 
Brier.  These  may  be  purchased  during  November 
from  a  nursery,  or  any  local  labourer  used  to  such 
work  will  obtain  as  many  as  required  from  the  wild 


PROPAGATION   OF   ROSES  109 

Briers  in  the  district.  These  stocks  should  be  trimmed 
of  any  side  shoots,  cut  to  the  length  wanted,  and 
planted  two  feet  apart  and  four  feet  between  the 
rows.  The  root  should  be  cut  away  to  within,  say, 
two  inches  of  the  stem  and  not  be  left  like  a  hockey- 
stick.  The  best  stocks  are  those  of  the  second  year's 
growth. 

Budding  Standard  Stocks. — Budding  is  one  of  those 
things  which  cannot  readily  be  learnt  from  printed 
instructions,  but  which  any  proficient  in  the  art  will  be 
able  to  teach  the  beginner  in  a  few  lessons,  and  which 
a  little  practice  afterwards  will  soon  render  quite  easy 
to  him.  A  few  hints  may,  however,  be  useful  when 
the  mechanical  process  has  been  mastered.  For  in- 
stance, in  budding  standard  stocks  a  single  rather  long 
slit  is  preferable  to  the  somewhat  shorter  T-shaped  one 
usually  employed,  as  the  transverse  cut  weakens  the 
shoot  of  the  Brier  and  often  causes  it  to  snap  off  in 
high  winds  where  it  has  been  made.  It  is  also  a 
good  plan  to  give  the  roots  of  the  stocks  a  good 
drenching  with  water  before  they  are  budded,  as 
it  will  cause  the  bark  to  come  away  from  the  wood 
more  readily  than  it  otherwise  would  have  done. 
Budding  can  be  done  at  any  time  during  the  summer  ; 
the  early  part  of  July  is  usually  the  best  period  of 
the  year  to  begin,  as  the  majority  of  the  shoots  are 
then  in  that  half-ripened  condition  which  is  so  desir- 
able— that  is  to  say,  neither  too  sappy  nor  on  the  other 
hand  too  old  and  dry.  The  shoots  of  the  Rose  from 
which  the  buds  are  taken  should  be  in  the  same 
half-ripened  condition,  and  the  buds  themselves  only 


no     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

moderately  plump  and  consequently  quite  dormant. 
If  the  bark  does  not  come  away  readily  from  any 
shoot  when  the  handle  of  the  budding  knife  is 
inserted,  it  is  useless  to  try  and  bud  on  it.  When 
the  prickles  on  either  the  shoot  of  the  Brier  to  be 
budded  or  on  the  shoot  of  the  Rose  from  which 
the  bud  is  to  be  taken  come  off  easily  and  there  are 
at  the  same  time  fresh  green  leaves  at  the  end  of 
that  shoot,  it  is  certain  to  be  in  the  best  condition 
possible  for  budding.  The  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and 
Hybrid  Teas  will  be  found  easier  to  bud  than  the 
Teas.  The  buds  should  be  tied  in  moderately  firmly 
but  not  too  tightly.  In  a  fortnight's  time  they  may 
be  tied  afresh,  this  time  more  loosely.  After  budding, 
none  of  the  budded  shoots  of  the  Brier  should  be 
touched  with  the  knife  until  November,  when  the 
longest  and  most  vigorous  may  be  shortened  about 
one-third  of  their  length. 

Budding  Dwarf  Stocks. — The  stocks  should  be  kept 
well  earthed  up  until  budding  time,  when  the  sur- 
rounding soil  should  be  removed  with  a  small  hand 
fork  from  a  few  of  the  Briers  as  they  are  wanted. 
The  main  stem  should  then  be  cleaned  with  a  rag 
and  the  slit  made  in  it  for  the  insertion  of  the  bud. 
The  T-shaped  slit,  previously  objected  to  in  the  case 
of  standard  stocks,  may  here  be  made,  and  a  single 
bud  (or  if  preferred  two  buds  close  together)  be 
inserted  in  it.  The  buds  should  be  inserted  quite 
low  down  in  the  stem  near  the  roots  and  not  in 
the  upper  part  of  it.  The  instructions  given  when 
treating    of    budding    standard    stocks    as    regards 


VISCOUNTESS  FOLKESTONE  (H.T.);  CREAMY   WHITE, 
SHADED  FLESH  COLOUR. 


PROPAGATION   OF   ROSES  in 

watering,  the  time  of  year,  the  selecting  of  the  buds, 
and  also  as  to  tying  and  retying  them  after  insertion, 
apply  equally  to  those  dwarf  stocks. 

Raising  Rose  Plants  from  Cuttings. — Now  that  excel- 
lent Rose  plants  can  be  obtained  ready  made,  as  it 
were,  from  the  nurseries  at  such  reasonable  prices,  it 
seems  hardly  worth  while  trying  to  raise  them  from 
cuttings,  besides  which,  budding  is  a  much  more 
certain  and  quicker  method  of  increasing  a  stock  of 
Roses.  To  ensure  the  greatest  measure  of  success 
the  following  directions  may  be  followed  with  confi- 
dence, as  they  are  the  outcome  of  the  experience  of 
one  of  the  most  skilful  raisers  of  own-root  Roses  that 
we  have  ever  had.  A  cucumber  or  other  cold  frame 
should  be  placed  on  hard  ground  and  filled  with  a 
mixture  of  loam,  sand  and  leaf-mould  in  nearly  equal 
proportions  to  the  depth  of  six  inches.  This  compost 
should  be  made  very  firm  and  afterwards  well  watered. 
In  a  few  days  it  will  be  ready  to  receive  the  cuttings. 
The  best  time  to  commence  operations  is  towards  the 
end  of  September.  The  cuttings  should  be  taken 
from  shoots  which  have  borne  the  first  crop  of  Roses 
of  the  year,  as  they  will  then  be  in  the  half-ripened 
condition  required.  They  should  not  be  cut  from 
the  plant  but  stripped  off  with  a  slight  heel.  The 
cuttings  should  be  about  four  inches  in  length  and 
thus  prepared.  All  the  leaves  should  be  cut  off 
except  the  two  lower  leaflets  of  the  two  upper  leaves. 
They  must  be  dibbled  in  and  made  very  firm  at  the 
base  or  they  will  not  strike.  The  cuttings  should 
be  inserted  six  inches  apart  and  three  inches  deep, 


ii2     ROSES  FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

leaving  the  remaining  inch  with  its  leaflets  to  peep 
out  above  the  compost.  After  the  cuttings  have 
been  planted  they  should  for  a  time  be  kept  close, 
admitting  a  little  air  to  prevent  the  leaflets  damping 
off.  In  severe  weather  the  frame  must  be  covered 
with  sufficient  matting  or  other  material  to  keep  out 
frost,  or  the  cuttings  will  be  lifted  by  its  action  on 
the  compost  and  so  prevented  from  rooting.  Early 
in  May  in  the  following  year  they  should  be  taken  up 
with  a  ball  and  potted,  kept  close  for  a  time  in  a 
frame,  and  then  gradually  exposed  to  the  air  and 
sunshine.  In  August  they  will  be  ready  to  plant 
out.  The  Roses  which  best  answer  to  this  treatment 
are  the  stronger  growing  varieties,  for  the  moderate 
growers,  if  they  succeed  at  all,  take  a  long  time  before 
they  make  good  plants. 

Rose  cuttings  may  be  struck  in  the  open  ground 
under  a  north  wall  or  other  shady  spot,  planting  them 
in  sandy  soil  as  above  advised ;  but  owing  to  the 
disturbing  influence  of  frost  and  other  causes  the 
percentage  of  successes  will  not  be  nearly  so  great 
as  when  they  are  afforded  the  protection  of  frames. 

Grafting. — This  method  of  propagation  is  scarcely 
ever  employed  by  amateurs,  and  it  is  therefore  un- 
necessary to  describe  it  here.  It  is  used  by  nursery- 
men, principally  for  raising  pot  Roses  and  as  a  rapid 
way  of  increasing  the  stock  of  any  new  or  rare 
variety. 


CHAPTER   XX 

THE    ENEMIES    OF   THE   ROSE 

There  is  scarcely  any  other  plant  which  is  attacked 
by  so  many  or  such  persistent  enemies  as  the  Rose. 
Strange  to  say,  writers  on  Rose  culture,  in  enumerating 
these,  invariably  omit  to  mention  the  most  potent 
enemy  of  all,  and  that  is,  adverse  weather.  It  is  not 
only  that  these  adverse  weather  conditions  often 
inflict  more  serious  and  lasting  injuries  than  all  the 
other  enemies  of  the  Rose  put  together,  but  they  are 
also  indirectly  responsible  for  the  worst  attacks  from 
insect  and  other  pests.  Taking  all  classes  of  Roses 
together,  there  is  perhaps  no  climate  in  the  world  so 
favourable  to  their  perfect  development  as  that  of  the 
British  Isles,  and,  provided  seasonable  weather  could 
always  be  depended  upon,  these  islands  would  be  a 
perfect  paradise  for  the  rosarian.  Unfortunately  this 
is  far  from  being  the  case,  as  more  or  less  unseason- 
able weather  must  be  regarded  in  this  country  as  the 
rule  rather  than  the  exception,  and  consequently  he 
is  kept  in  a  continual  state  of  anxiety  as  to  what  un- 
favourable climatic  changes  his  favourites  may  next 
be  called  upon  to  encounter.  No  doubt  one  reason 
for  these  anxieties  is  due  to  the  fact  that  most  of  our 
cultivated    Roses    are    only   half-hardy    plants,    and 

113  H 


ii4     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

therefore  peculiarly  susceptible  to  all  kinds  of  un- 
favourable weather  influences. 

Frosts. — These  may  be  divided  into  two  classes — 
the  winter  frosts  and  the  spring  frosts.  Against  the 
former  the  protection  provided  cannot  well  be  too 
complete,  whereas  very  moderate  means  will  mostly 
be  sufficient  to  ward  off  injuries  from  spring  frosts ; 
and  yet  against  the  ill  effects  of  these  spring  frosts 
there  is  practically  no  remedy,  unless  it  be  syringeing 
or  spraying  the  frosted  foliage  with  water  very  early 
in  the  morning  in  order  to  thaw  it  before  sunrise. 
For  at  that  season  it  is  not  so  much  the  damage  done 
by  the  frost  itself  that  has  to  be  guarded  against  as  the 
sudden  thawing  of  the  frozen  leaves  by  the  sun  shining 
on  them.  Of  course  the  reason  why  spring  frosts  are 
so  difficult  to  deal  with  as  compared  with  winter  frosts 
is  that  in  the  one  case  the  plants  are  clothed  with 
delicate  young  foliage,  whereas  in  the  winter  it  is  only 
necessary  to  protect  the  lower  portion  of  the  leafless 
shoots. 

Early  in  December  all  the  dwarf  or  bush  Roses, 
whether  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  Hybrid  Teas,  Teas  or 
Noisettes,  &c,  should  have  the  surrounding  soil  in 
the  beds  drawn  over  the  centre  or  crown  of  the 
plants  to  the  height  of  several  inches.  In  other 
words,  they  should  be  earthed  up  like  potatoes. 
This  earthing  up  is  generally  confined  to  the  Teas, 
but  no  amateur  will  regret  having  given  his  other 
dwarf  Roses  this  extra  attention  should  the  winter 
prove  unusually  severe,  for  there  are  comparatively 
few  varieties  which  will   be   found  at   pruning   time 


ROSEBANK  METHOD  OE  PROTECTING  STANDARD  TEAS. 


THE   ENEMIES   OF   THE   ROSE      115 

after  such  a  winter  with  perfectly  sound  wood  even 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  beds. 

Standard  Roses  are  less  easily  protected.  Bracken, 
cut  in  September  before  it  has  become  brittle,  should 
be  secured  to  the  heads  ;  or  a  more  effectual  pro- 
tection may  be  afforded  the  standard  Teas  by  first 
drawing  the  shoots  of  the  plant  together  and  then 
lightly  thatching  the  head  with  straw  or  bracken 
fastened  above  it  to  a  firm  stake,  with  one  or  more 
ties  lower  down,  as  may  be  necessary  to  prevent  the 
straw  or  bracken  from  being  blown  aside  in  high 
winds.  Tender  wall  Roses,  such  as  Marechal  Niel, 
are  best  protected  by  fastening  over  them  some  fine 
cotton  netting,  or  by  placing  bracken,  small  sprigs 
of  fir,  or  other  light  evergreens,  among  the  branches. 

Drought. — In  dry  weather  it  will  be  well  to  give  all 
the  plants  a  good  watering  (at  least  half  a  gallon  to 
each  Rose)  once  a  week,  either  with  clear  water  or 
weak  liquid  manure.  On  the  following  day  the  beds 
should  be  hoed  to  keep  a  loose  surface,  which  will 
be  of  the  greatest  help  in  preventing  the  soil  beneath 
from  becoming  quickly  dry  again.  Another  plan  is 
to  give  each  plant  a  thorough  watering  with  clear 
water  and  then  to  cover  over  the  surface  of  the  beds 
with  a  mulching  or  covering  of  half-decayed  manure. 
The  objection  to  a  mulching,  which  should  never 
be  applied  before  June,  is  that  many  consider  it  un- 
sightly, and  the  birds  are  sure  to  scratch  among  it 
and  so  scatter  the  manure  over  the  grass  or  other 
paths  between  the  beds. 

Insect  Pests. — Against  the  foregoing  and  other  ad- 


u6     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

verse  weather  influences  the  Rose  grower  is  to  a  great 
extent  powerless,  whereas  insect  pests,  if  attacked 
with  promptness  and  perseverance,  can,  as  a  rule, 
be  readily  subdued.  The  great  thing  is  to  watch  for 
their  appearance  and  at  once  proceed  to  destroy  the 
first  comers,  and  when  this  is  done  to  continue  to 
harass  the  enemy  until  the  attack  has  entirely  ceased. 
It  is,  as  a  rule,  only  when  any  insect  pest  has  been 
allowed  to  obtain  a  firm  footing  that  there  need  be 
any  difficulty  in  getting  rid  of  it.  Good  culture  is  a 
great  help,  as  well-nourished  and  healthy  plants  do 
not  suffer  so  much  from  insect  and  other  attacks  as 
those  that  are  ill-fed  and  weakly.  The  only  remedy 
against  all  the  larger  insects  that  attack  the  Rose, 
like  caterpillars,  grubs,  beetles,  sawflies,  &c,  is  hand- 
picking  ;  whereas  the  smaller  ones,  like  greenfly, 
thrips,  red  spider,  &c,  may  be  best  kept  in  check 
by  syringeing.  Where  Roses  are  largely  grown,  a 
knapsack  spraying-pump  will  be  found  very  useful  in 
distributing  and  spraying  insecticides  and  fungicides. 

Grubs  and  Caterpillars. — The  Rose  maggot  and  seve- 
ral other  equally  destructive  leaf -rolling  grubs  and 
caterpillars  are  generally  the  first  pests  to  attack  the 
Rose  in  the  spring.  They  will  be  found  curled  up 
in  the  young  foliage,  and  must  be  sought  for  every 
few  days  and  crushed  between  the  thumb  and  finger, 
or  much  damage  will  be  clone.  This  is  not  a  plea- 
sant occupation,  but  unfortunately  there  is  no  other 
remedy  except  it  be  to  pinch  off  the  affected  leaves 
and  afterwards  burn  them  or  throw  them  into  a 
strong  solution  of  salt  and  water. 


THE   ENEMIES   OF   THE   ROSE       117 

The  next  enemy  to  appear  will  be  the  frog-hopper 
or  cuckoo  -  spit,  a  little  pale  green  or  pale  yellow 
frog -like  insect  which  will  be  found  hidden  in  the 
centre  of  a  small  patch  of  froth  deposited  either  in 
the  axils  of  the  leaves  or  on  the  leaves  themselves. 
This,  again,  must  be  hunted  out  and  destroyed  by 
means  of  the  thumb  and  finger,  or  removed  with  a 
small  brush  and  deposited  in  the  salt  and  water 
solution  before  mentioned. 

The  Boring  Grub, — Holes  will  be  often  noticed  in 
the  tops  of  the  stems  of  standard  Roses  ;  these  are 
made  by  this  pith  -  boring  grub.  As  a  preventive 
the  ends  of  standard  Roses  should  be  painted  with 
"  knotting "  at  planting  time,  and  the  same  pre- 
caution should  be  adopted  with  the  standard  stocks. 
If  the  holes  have  been  already  made,  a  piece  of 
copper  wire  thrust  sharply  down  them  will  destroy 
the  grubs  ;  a  little  putty  is  used  to  close  the  holes 
afterwards.  The  same  grubs  also  occasionally  pierce 
the  shoots  of  Roses,  and  seem  especially  fond  of 
those  made  by  standard  Brier  stocks.  In  this  case, 
as  soon  as  observed,  the  hollow  ends  of  the  shoots 
should  be  squeezed  until  firm  wood  is  met  with,  and 
then  cut  off.  In  this  way  the  boring  grub  will  be 
crushed  and  the  affected  part  of  the  shoot  removed. 

The  Rose  Aphis  or  Greenfly. — In  some  seasons  these 
tiny  creatures  are  very  numerous  and  troublesome, 
and  if  not  frequently  destroyed  increase  very  rapidly. 
Most  exhibitors  keep  greenfly  under  entirely  by  the 
skilful  use  of  the  thumb  and  finger.  This  only 
shows  how  easily  such  pests  may  be  kept  in  check, 


n8     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

if  attacked  directly  they  make  their  appearance  and 
never  afterwards  allowed  to  congregate  in  any  great 
numbers.  Occasional  sharp  syringeing  with  a  garden- 
engine  with  clean  water  will  be  found  in  most  cases 
sufficient.  Should  this,  however,  prove  ineffectual, 
the  following  well  -  known  remedy  may  be  used  in- 
stead. Take  two  ounces  of  quassia  chips  and  boil 
them  in  a  gallon  of  water,  adding  a  tablespoonful 
of  soft  soap  before  the  mixture  becomes  cold.  Or 
one  of  the  many  insecticides  in  the  market  may  be 
tried,  keeping  strictly  to  the  directions  supplied  with 
the  bottle. 

Thrips. — These  tiny  creatures  often  injure  Rose 
blooms  in  hot  and  dry  weather,  especially  those  of 
the  Teas,  by  giving  the  petals  a  brown  and  bruised 
appearance.  Spraying  or  syringeing  with  clean  water 
is  the  best  remedy  to  employ,  even  at  the  risk  of 
spoiling  some  of  the  existing  blooms. 

Red  Spider. — This  is  another  dry-weather  enemy, 
and  so  small  as  not  to  be  detected  with  the  unaided 
eye.  It  generally  attacks  the  lower  sides  of  the  leaves, 
and  if  not  kept  in  check  causes  them  to  fall  from  the 
plant  prematurely.  The  same  remedy  as  for  thrips  is 
advisable.  Crimson  Rambler,  when  grown  in  hot  or 
confined  positions,  is  rather  subject  to  this  pest.  In 
dealing  with  large  plants  like  this,  it  will  be  found  a 
good  plan  to  use  a  small  watering-pot  with  a  fine  rose, 
and  each  evening  in  dry  weather  to  wet  both  sides  of 
the  leaves  by  swinging  it  sharply  up  and  down  and 
across  the  climber. 

Fungoid  pests — Mildew. — Of  all  the  insect  and  fungoid 


THE   ENEMIES   OF   THE   ROSE      119 

enemies  of  the  Rose  this  is,  as  a  rule,  the  most  trouble- 
some to  deal  with.  It  appears  as  a  white  mould  on 
the  foliage,  and  if  not  promptly  dealt  with  will  quickly 
spread  from  one  plant  to  another  over  the  whole  col- 
lection. It  occurs  at  all  seasons,  but  principally  in 
autumn,  when,  if  not  checked,  it  will  prevent  the 
plants  from  flowering  as  freely  as  they  otherwise 
would.  Flowers  of  sulphur  is  a  sure  preventive,  but 
each  attack  must  be  dealt  with  on  its  first  appearance, 
and  the  application  repeated  until  a  cure  is  effected.  A 
very  simple  way  of  applying  the  sulphur  is  by  shaking 
it  lightly  over  the  affected  plants  by  means  of  a  fine 
muslin  bag  the  first  calm  evening  after  the  mildew  is 
detected.  Although  only  the  upper  surface  of  the 
leaves  are  dusted  over  it  will  be  found  in  practice 
that  the  action  of  the  sun  will  vaporise  the  sulphur 
and  cause  the  surrounding  atmosphere  to  be  impreg- 
nated with  it.  Syringeing  or  spraying  with  the  follow- 
ing liquid  will  also  prove  effectual,  more  especially 
if  the  under  side  of  the  leaves  can  be  wetted  with  it. 
To  make  this  mixture  half  an  ounce  of  potassium 
sulphide  should  be  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  hot  water, 
which  should  be  well  stirred  as  the  sulphide  of  potas- 
sium dissolves;  when  cold  the  liquid  will  be  ready 
for  use.  Warm  days  followed  by  cold  nights  are 
the  most  frequent  causes  of  this  pest,  also  a  close, 
muggy  atmosphere. 

Red  Rust  or  Orange  Fungus. — This  is  much  more 
variable  than  mildew,  and  in  many  gardens  is  seldom 
if  ever  seen,  while  in  others,  particularly  those  on 
hot  and  dry  soils,  it  is  frequently  very  destructive  to 


120     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

the  foliage  in  the  autumn.  On  its  first  appearance  a 
few  sulphur-coloured  spots  will  be  noticed  either  on 
the  leaves  or  shoots.  In  the  next  stage  it  increases 
and  becomes  a  bright  orange,  ultimately  turning  black. 
There  is  no  practical  remedy  for  this  fungus,  as  unlike 
mildew  it  vegetates  inside  instead  of  on  the  surface  of 
the  foliage. 


MRS.  EDWARD  MAIVLEY  (T.);  PINK,  TINTED  CARMINE. 


CHAPTER   XXI 

EXHIBITING    ROSES 

It  is  often  said  by  those  who  are  beginning  Rose 
culture  that  they  have  no  idea  of  ever  exhibiting  their 
flowers,  but  that  they  simply  intend  to  grow  Roses  for 
their  own  pleasure  and  for  the  decoration  of  their 
garden.  However,  after  a  few  years,  if  their  enthu- 
siasm has  not  by  that  time  altogether  evaporated, 
the  care  and  attention  they  have  given  their  plants 
has  led  to  such  excellent  results  that  they  are  often 
tempted  to  enter  the  lists,  in  order  to  test  their  skill 
against  that  of  other  competitors.  The  great  charm 
that  the  Rose  possesses  over  most  other  flowers  for 
exhibition  purposes  is  that  it  is  a  true  amateur's  flower 
— a  flower  that  any  amateur  with  moderate  leisure 
can  cultivate  entirely  with  his  own  hands  ;  or  if  the 
collection  be  too  large  to  allow  of  this  being  done,  he 
can  undertake  the  lighter  and  more  important  parts  of 
the  work  himself  and  leave  the  digging,  manuring 
and  watering  to  be  carried  out  by  the  gardener  under 
his  own  special  supervision. 

The  directions  that  have  previously  been  given  as  to 
planting,  pruning,  &c,  apply,  for  the  most  part,  to 
exhibitors  and  non-exhibitors  alike.  The  principal 
difference  consists  in  the  more  constant  care  and 
attention    that    the   exhibitor   is  obliged  to   give   his 


122     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

plants  in  order  to  keep  himself  in  line  with  other 
competitors.  It  may  be  well,  however,  to  draw  atten- 
tion to  those  details  of  culture  which  require  special 
care  on  the  part  of  the  exhibitor. 

In  order  to  obtain  exceptionally  fine  blooms  his 
collection  must  be  kept  clean  and  well  nourished,  and 
at  the  same  time  the  strength  of  each  plant  must  be 
directed  into  certain  restricted  channels ;  in  other 
words,  the  object  should  be  to  have  strong  and 
healthy  plants,  bearing  only  a  limited  number  of 
shoots. 

Planting. — The  Roses  may  be  grown  in  separate 
parallel  beds  five  feet  wide,  containing  three  rows  of 
plants,  with  grass  paths  between  the  beds.  More 
frequently,  however,  a  piece  of  ground,  either  in  part  of 
the  garden  itself  or  in  an  adjoining  field,  is  dug  up 
and  prepared  to  receive  the  whole  collection.  In  the 
latter  case  the  Roses  should  be  arranged  in  double 
lines ;  that  is  to  say,  between  each  second  row  of  plants 
a  space  three  feet  wide  should  be  left  to  enable  the 
cultivator  to  attend  readily  to  the  wants  of  the  Roses 
on  each  side  of  this  space  or  pathway.  The  plants  in 
the  rows  should  be  two  feet  apart,  and  the  same 
distance  should  separate  the  rows.  By  this  arrange- 
ment much  time  is  saved,  a  matter  of  great  import- 
ance, considering  that  each  plant  will  require  to  be 
visited  if  not  every  day  at  all  events  every  other  day 
during  the  growing  and  exhibiting  seasons.  It  is  a 
mistake  to  grow  a  larger  number  of  plants  than  can 
receive  this  amount  of  individual  attention. 

Pruning. — The  best  month  in  which  to  prune  the 


ERNEST  METZ  (J.);  SALMON,  TINTED  ROSE 


EXHIBITING   ROSES  123 

Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  Hybrid  Teas  is  March.  It 
will  be  well  to  commence  operations  early  in  that 
month,  and  to  continue  the  work  at  intervals  during 
the  course  of  it.  When  thinning  out  the  shoots  of  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals,  from  three  to  six  shoots,  accord- 
ing to  the  strength  of  the  individual  plant,  should  be 
allowed  to  remain.  By  the  best  shoots  is  meant  those 
which  are  the  strongest  and  at  the  same  time  well 
ripened  ;  gross,  sappy  shoots  are  of  little  service. 
When  pruned  the  shoots  should  be  left  from  three 
to  six  inches  in  length,  according  to  the  vigour  of  the 
variety — the  stronger  growers  being  the  least  severely 
pruned. 

The  Hybrid  Teas  will  also  require  close  pruning  as 
a  rule,  but  the  shoots  of  the  strong-growing  varieties 
should  be  left  longer  than  is  recommended  for  the 
Hybrid  Perpetuals. 

The  pruning  of  the  Teas  must  be  deferred  until 
April,  when,  after  thinning  out  the  weak,  sappy  and 
dead  shoots,  those  that  remain  should  be  cut  back  half 
their  length.  Of  course,  should  the  previous  winter 
have  been  unusually  severe  there  will  be  little  choice 
in  the  matter,  for  in  that  case,  after  removing  the 
dead  wood,  the  shoots  which  remain  will  have  to  be 
cut  back  until  sound  wood  is  met  with,  even  should 
this  be  beneath  the  level  of  the  soil. 

Insects  and  other  Pests. — These  must  be  diligently 
sought  for  and  prompt  measures  taken  to  destroy 
them  and  thus  prevent  them  from  spreading.  For 
this  purpose  a  daily  inspection  of  the  plants  during  the 
growing  season  will  be  necessary.     It  cannot  be  too 


i24     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

often  repeated  that  most  of  these  pests  can  with  com- 
parative ease  be  kept  in  check  if  dealt  with  directly 
they  make  their  appearance,  but  when  once  they  have 
become  established,  the  difficulties  of  the  cultivator 
are  increased  tenfold. 

Thinning  out  the  Young  Shoots. — As  the  object  of 
the  exhibitor  is  to  allow  each  plant  only  a  limited 
number  of  shoots  and  to  confine  the  flow  of  sap  to 
these  particular  growths,  it  will  be  necessary  soon 
after  the  young  shoots  appear  to  remove  nearly  all  the 
other  growths  until  the  first  crop  of  flowers  has  been 
produced.  It  is  not  advisable  to  begin  this  thinning- 
out  process  too  early,  as,  in  the  case  of  harm  from 
spring  frosts,  some  of  the  later-made  shoots  may  be 
required  to  take  the  place  of  some  of  those  originally 
designed  for  the  production  of  the  exhibition  blooms ; 
besides  which,  it  is  only  when  the  young  shoots  are 
moderately  advanced  that  it  will  be  possible  to  judge 
which  of  them  it  will  be  advisable  to  retain  or  to  remove. 
According  to  the  strength  of  the  plant,  from  three  to 
six  flowering  shoots  should  ultimately  be  left  on  each. 
This  art  of  thinning  out  is  an  important  one  and  can 
only  be  mastered  after  some  little  experience.  As  a 
rule  the  growths  that  are  likely  to  bear  the  best 
flowers  are  the  strong  ones  which  come  from  the  top 
bud  of  the  shoots  that  have  been  pruned.  Some  of 
the  moderately  strong  shoots  which  spring  from  the 
base  of  the  plant  may  also  be  retained,  but  not  so  the 
extra  strong  sucker-like  growths.  These  should  be  cut 
down  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ground,  for  not  only 
will   they   monopolise  an   undue    proportion    of   the 


HON.  EDITH  GIFFORD  (H.T.) 


EXHIBITING   ROSES  125 

vigour  of  the  plant,  but  the  blooms  they  produce  will 
be  found  as  a  rule  to  be  coarse  and  unfit  for  exhibi- 
tion. This  process  of  thinning  should  be  continued 
until  the  buds  on  the  selected  shoots  are  showing 
colour. 

Manuring. — As  Roses  are  gross  feeders,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  keep  the  plants  well  nourished  by  the 
threefold  application  of  (1)  farmyard  or  other  animal 
manure,  (2)  artificial  manure,  and  (3)  liquid  manure. 

(1)  In  the  autumn  a  good  dressing  of  half -rotten 
manure — farmyard  for  preference — should  be  lightly 
dug  into  the  beds  between  the  plants,  taking  care  to 
disturb  the  roots  as  little  as  possible. 

(2)  In  March,  and  again  in  May,  either  Clay's 
fertilizer,  or  other  artificial  Rose  manure,  should  be 
dusted  around  each  plant,  and  afterwards  mixed 
with  the  surface  soil  by  means  of  a  hand-fork.  A 
small  handful  of  either  of  these  manures  will  be  a 
sufficient  application  for  each  Rose. 

(3)  As  soon  as  the  flower  -  buds  are  formed  the 
plants  should  be  watered  once  a  week  with  liquid 
manure.  The  first  watering,  especially  if  the  soil 
be  at  all  dry  at  the  time,  should  be  very  weak.  The 
strength  of  the  liquid  after  this  may  be  increased, 
but  at  no  time  should  the  colour  be  deeper  than 
that  of  pale  ale.  An  excellent  liquid  manure  may 
be  made  by  mixing  in  a  tubful  of  water  some  fresh 
cow  manure,  soot,  and  guano,  in  the  following  pro- 
portions :  three  parts  cow  manure,  one  part  soot, 
and  one  part  guano.  After  these  ingredients  have 
been  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  water,  the  concen- 


126     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH    GARDENS 

trated  liquid  thus  obtained  should  be  freely  diluted 
with  clear  water  before  being  used.  The  day  after 
each  watering  the  surface  soil  should  be  hoed  or 
lightly  forked  over  to  keep  it  open  and  accessible  to 
light  and  air.  It  is  often  thought  by  non-exhibitors 
that  the  fine  blooms  they  see  at  the  Rose  shows  are 
almost  entirely  the  result  of  heavy  manuring.  This 
is  a  great  mistake,  for  the  size  and  quality  of  the 
flowers  depends  much  more  on  the  free  use  of  the 
hoe  and  the  unremitting  attention  that  exhibitors 
bestow  on  their  plants  than  on  the  amount  of 
nourishment  they  may  have  received  in  the  way  of 
manure. 

Mulching. — On  hot,  dry,  shallow  soils,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  cover  the  ground  on  which  the  Roses 
are  growing  with  a  layer  of  half-decayed  manure  in 
order  to  keep  it  moister  and  less  liable  to  changes 
of  temperature  than  it  would  otherwise  be.  This 
mulching  should,  however,  not  be  put  on  earlier 
than  the  beginning  of  June.  Mulching  should  be 
dispensed  with  wherever  it  is  not  absolutely  needed, 
as  a  frequent  loosening  of  the  surface  soil  is  no 
doubt  preferable  to  any  such  covering. 

Disbudding. — At  the  end  of  each  shoot  that  has 
been  left  on  the  plants  after  they  have  been  thinned 
will  ultimately  appear,  as  a  rule,  three  flower-buds. 
Of  these  only  the  centre  one  should  be  allowed  to 
remain,  the  two  others  being  removed  as  soon  as 
this  can  conveniently  be  done.  Some  use  a  pointed 
quill  for  this  purpose,  but  with  a  little  practice  these 
small  buds  can  be  easily  taken  off  with  the  fingers. 


ROSEBANK  SHELTER  FOR  EXHIBITION  ROSES. 


EXHIBITING   ROSES  127 

Shading. — The  blooms  of  some  varieties,  and  more 
particularly  the  crimson  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  are  very 
liable  to  become  burnt  if  exposed  to  the  direct  rays 
of  the  sun  in  hot  weather.  It  will  therefore  be  neces- 
sary to  afford  them  some  protection.  There  are  many 
kinds  of  shades  used  for  this  purpose,  but  the  simplest 
and  most  efficient  are  those  made  of  calico  stretched 
tightly  over  a  conical  frame  made  of  stout  zinc  wire, 
as  they  are  cool,  well-ventilated,  and  sufficiently  water- 
proof, and  yet  do  not  seriously  obstruct  the  light. 
These  shades  should  be  12  inches  across  in  the  widest 
part,  and  9  inches  high.  The  zinc  socket  attached 
to  the  frame  must  be  made  to  slide  up  and  down  a 
square  wooden  rod  in  which  holes  have  been  pierced 
at  intervals,  so  that  by  means  of  a  metal  pin  the 
shade  can  be  adjusted  to  any  height  required.  These 
zinc  frames  can  be  made  by  any  blacksmith,  or  a 
smaller  shade  of  the  same  kind  can  be  obtained  ready 
made  of  Mr.  J.  Pinches,  of  Crown  Street,  Camber- 
well.  It  is  advisable  to  have  a  good  supply  of 
these  shades,  as  they  not  only  shield  choice  blooms 
from  the  sun,  but  are  still  more  useful  in  protecting 
them  from  rain  and  heavy  dews. 

Rose  Boxes. — These  are  usually  made  of  half-inch 
deal,  and  are  painted  throughout  dark  green.  The 
following  are  the  regulation  sizes:  viz.,  for  twenty- 
four  blooms,  3  feet  6  inches  long  ;  for  eighteen 
blooms,  2  feet  9  inches  long  ;  for  twelve  blooms, 
2  feet  long ;  for  nine  blooms,  1  foot  6  inches  long ; 
and  for  six  blooms,  1  foot  long.  For  eight  trebles 
(three  blooms  arranged  in  the  box  triangularly),  3  feet 


128      ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

6  inches  long  ;  for  six  trebles,  2  feet  9  inches  long  ; 
and  for  four  trebles,  2  feet  long.  All  the  boxes  must 
be  4  inches  high  in  front  and  18  inches  wide.  These 
are  all  outside  measurements.  Inside  each  box  there 
should  be  a  tray  pierced  with  holes  to  receive  the 
tubes  in  which  the  blooms  are  exhibited. 

Exhibition  Tubes.  —  The  best  form  of  exhibition 
tube  is  that  known  as  Foster's  Tube,  as  the  bloom 
can  be  placed  by  means  of  the  wires  supplied  with 
the  tubes  at  any  required  height  without  raising  the 
tube  itself,  and  there  is  a  holder  in  front  for  the 
reception  of  the  card  on  which  the  name  of  the  Rose 
is  printed  or  written.  These  tubes  can  be  obtained 
of  Mr.  H.  Foster,  Ashford,  Kent. 

Cutting  the  Blooms. — If  the  show  be  a  local  one 
and  easy  of  access  it  will  be  well  to  cut  the  most 
forward  blooms  on  the  evening  of  the  day  previous 
to  the  exhibition,  and  those  less  advanced  and  likely 
to  improve  on  the  plants  during  the  night,  early  on 
the  following  morning.  But  if  the  show  be  at  a 
distance  it  will  be  advisable  to  cut  the  blooms  early 
in  the  evening,  as  it  is  found  that  if  cut  when  they 
are  going  to  sleep,  as  it  were,  in  the  evening,  they 
develop  less  rapidly  on  the  journey  to  the  show,  and 
consequently  travel  better  than  those  cut  in  the 
morning  when  they  are  growing  rapidly.  It  is  no 
use  cutting  any  blooms  which  are  fully  expanded, 
except  in  rare  cases,  as  they  will  be  too  far  advanced 
for  exhibition  by  the  time  they  reach  the  show.  The 
choicest  half-developed  blooms  should  be  selected  ; 
that  is  to  say,  those  which  are  large  for  the  variety, 


MRS.  PAUL  (BourbJti),  PINK. 


HYBRID  TEA  ROSE  MADAME  JULES  GROLEZ,  ROSE  PINK,  4  inches. 


t 


TEA  ROSE,  MADAME  CHARLES,  FLESH,   WITH  ORANGE 
AND  ROSE  TO  CENTRE;  4  inches. 


BARONESS  ROTHSCHILD  (H.P.) 


EXHIBITING   ROSES  129 

and  at  the  same  time  regular  in  shape  and  of  good 
colour.  The  boxes  should  in  the  first  instance  be 
placed  in  a  cool  shed,  the  tubes  filled  with  water,  and 
the  surface  of  the  box  covered  with  the  freshest  and 
greenest  moss  obtainable.  It  is  not  a  good  plan  to 
set  up  Roses  in  a  shady  place  in  the  open  air.  This 
being  done,  the  selected  blooms,  as  they  are  cut,  should 
be  placed  in  the  tubes  and  labelled.  The  blooms  must 
be  cut  with  stems  sufficiently  long  to  allow  of  their 
ends  reaching  the  water  when  raised  to  the  required 
height  at  the  exhibition.  A  little  experience  will  show 
in  what  stage  of  development  the  different  varieties, 
according  to  their  respective  staying  power,  require  to 
be  cut.  The  best  blooms  should  next  be  chosen,  and 
after  having  been  wired,  should  be  placed  in  the  box 
intended  for  exhibition  and  labelled.  Blank  labels  of 
a  suitable  size  can  be  obtained  of  Messrs.  Blake  and 
Mackenzie,  School  Lane,  Liverpool,  or  they  can  be 
had  from  the  same  firm  with  the  names  of  the  Roses 
already  printed  on  them.  In  order  to  keep  the  flowers 
from  unduly  expanding  on  their  way  to  the  show, 
each  bloom  should  be  tied  round  with  double  Berlin 
wool.  In  doing  this  the  outer  row  of  petals  should 
be  left  free.  The  best  form  of  tie,  as  it  will  not  slip 
and  yet  can  be  readily  removed,  is  made  by  taking 
one  end  of  a  piece  of  wool  about  a  foot  long  and 
twisting  it  twice  round  the  other  end.  The  loop  thus 
formed  is  placed  over  the  middle  of  the  bloom  and 
inside  the  outer  or  guard  petals,  and  then  drawn  by 
the  two  ends  of  the  tie  close  round  the  flower,  so  as 
to   clasp  it  firmly  and  yet  not  too  tightly.      Before 


130     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

being  left  for  the  night  the  lid  should  be  put  on  the 
box,  and  the  end  of  a  small  flower-pot  be  inserted  in 
the  centre  of  the  lid  to  keep  it  a  few  inches  open  in 
the  front  so  as  to  allow  of  a  free  access  of  air  to  the 
blooms.  For  every  bloom  intended  to  be  staged  there 
should  be  taken  to  the  show,  in  a  separate  box,  at  least 
one  extra  bloom  (not  necessarily  of  the  same  variety), 
and  all  these  spare  blooms  should,  as  a  rule,  be  younger 
than  those  in  the  box  designed  for  the  exhibition.  It 
will  not  be  necessary  to  wire  or  label  these  extra 
blooms,  but  it  will  be  well  to  place  between  the  inner 
petals  of  each  of  them  a  tiny  slip  of  writing  paper  with 
the  name  of  the  variety  upon  it,  so  that  there  may  be 
no  doubt  of  its  identity  when  selected  to  take  the  place 
of  another  bloom  at  the  show.  The  centres  of  all 
but  the  youngest  blooms  should  also  be  tied.  When 
travelling  to  the  exhibition  care  must  be  taken  that  the 
Rose  boxes  are  at  all  times  kept  level,  and  for  this 
purpose  it  will  be  necessary  to  personally  superintend 
the  placing  of  the  boxes  in  the  vans  of  the  trains, 
and  their  removal  therefrom,  and  in  the  same  way 
to  see  they  are  properly  treated  when  travelling  by 
cab  or  other  conveyance. 

At  the  Exhibition. — It  is  always  well  to  reach  the 
show  early,  so  that  plenty  of  time  may  be  available 
for  setting  up  the  Roses.  The  boxes  intended  for 
exhibition  should  at  once  be  taken  to  the  places  where 
they  are  to  be  staged.  In  that  way  their  position  is 
secured,  and  they  should  not  require  to  be  moved 
after  the  blooms  are  once  arranged,  although  this  has 
unfortunately  occasionally  to  be  done  if  the  exhibition 


m 

i, 

■PI 

M 

w 

^JijBfe^ 

^dMWv*^-m'-.-' 

m 

::j£:' 

IS 

JfereiTfilras-  ..-.•_-    .,   '. 

EXHIBITION  BOX  READY  FOR  THE  RECEPTION 
OF  THE  BLOOMS. 


EXHIBITION  BOX   WITH  BLOOMS  ARRANGED. 


EXHIBITING   ROSES  131 

be  in  any  way  crowded.  After  the  lid  of  the  first  box 
to  be  arranged  has  been  removed,  and  the  box  tilted 
up  at  the  back  by  means  of  two  small  flower-pots, 
the  flowers  should  in  the  first  instance  be  untied,  and 
any  which  are  overblown  or  otherwise  unsuitable  be 
taken  out  of  the  box  and  replaced  by  fresher  specimens 
from  the  box  containing  the  spare  blooms.  The 
largest  flowers  should  be  placed  in  the  back  row  and 
the  smallest  in  front.  As  far  as  practicable  the  dark 
and  light  coloured  Roses  should  be  set  up  alternately 
so  that  they  may  be  distributed  equally  over  the  box, 
inserting  any  yellow  flowers  there  may  be  towards  the 
centre  of  the  arrangement.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  place 
the  two  choicest  blooms  in  each  row  at  the  ends. 

The  Roses  having  been  thus  arranged  as  regards 
colour,  the  individual  flowers  should  be  set  up  to  the 
required  height.  Those  in  the  back  row  should  be 
the  highest,  those  in  the  front  the  lowest,' and  those  in 
the  middle  row  at  an  intermediate  height,  but  in  each 
row  all  the  blooms  should  be  at  the  same  level.  Before 
finally  setting  up  each  bloom  it  will  be  necessary  to 
see  that  it  is  in  exhibition  form  ;  that  is  to  say,  in  every 
case  any  discoloured  or  ragged  petals  should  be  re- 
moved, and  the  outer  row  of  petals  firmly  but  very 
gradually  pressed  back  at  the  base  into  a  nearly  hori- 
zontal position  with  the  help  of  a  large  camel's-hair 
brush.  In  addition  to  this  the  younger  blooms  may 
require  to  have  another  row  or  more  of  petals  treated 
in  the  same  way  to  help  the  flower  to  open  ;  a  sharp 
puff  given  with  the  mouth  to  the  inner  petals  will  also 
often   prove  of  material   assistance  in   effecting  this. 


132     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Should  any  bloom  threaten  to  become  too  much 
developed  before  the  judges  come  round,  it  will  be 
well  to  tie  up  the  centre  petals  again.  The  flowers 
having  been  thus  carefully  arranged,  the  lid  should 
be  replaced  on  the  box  and  nearly,  but  not  quite, 
closed.  As  soon  as  the  order  is  given  for  the  box  lids 
to  be  removed,  the  lids  should  be  taken  off,  the  few 
remaining  ties  removed  from  the  blooms  on  which 
they  have  been  replaced,  and  any  final  touches  to  the 
arrangement  given  that  may  be  necessary. 

Exhibiting  Garden  or  Decorative  Roses — Culture  and 
Pruning.  —  These  so-called  "garden"  Roses  belong 
to  such  different  sections  that  it  is  impossible  to 
lay  down  any  special  rules  as  to  culture.  In  all 
cases,  however,  the  object  aimed  at  should  be  the  same, 
namely,  to  obtain  strong-growing  plants  of  all  the 
varieties  cultivated,  to  thin  out  the  shoots  sparingly, 
and  to  prune  back  lightly  those  that  remain.  The 
climbing  varieties  should  be  treated  as  recommended  in 
the  chapter  on  pruning  (p.  104),  those  of  less  vigorous 
growth  should  be  cultivated  as  free-flowering  bushes, 
while  in  the  case  of  dwarf-growing  Teas  and  Pompons 
the  same  bushy  habit  should  as  far  as  possible  be  en- 
couraged. 

Cutting  the  Flowers. — As  the  cutting  and  arranging 
of  "  garden "  Roses  takes  considerably  longer  than 
does  that  of  the  exhibition  varieties,  it  is  advisable 
to  commence  operations  earlier  in  the  afternoon  pre- 
ceding the  show  day.  In  selecting  the  sprays  those 
on  which  the  most  forward  flowers  are  only  half 
open   should   be  chosen,  and   the   remainder  should 


SOUVENIR  DE  CATHERINE  GUILLOT  (T.  Garden  Rose), 
COPPERY  CARMINE,  SHADED  ORANGE. 


MRS.  JOHN  LAING  (II. P.),  ROSY  PINK. 


EXHIBITING   ROSES  133 

have  either  well-developed  buds  or  buds  just  showing 
colour.  Having  gathered  sufficient  shoots  of  any 
one  sort  to  make  an  exhibition  bunch,  those  selected 
should  be  wired  and  placed  deeply  in  a  bowl,  or  other 
vessel  holding  plenty  of  water,  before  proceeding  to 
cut  the  remaining  bunches.  When  all  are  gathered, 
the  sprays  should  be  arranged  in  bunches  and  their 
stems  tied  together  with  raffia  ready  for  exhibition  on 
the  morrow.  Some  taste  and  care  are  necessary  in 
arranging  these  bunches  so  that  the  flowers  are  dis- 
played to  the  best  advantage.  After  this  has  been 
done  they  will  require  to  be  again  placed  in  water 
and  removed  to  a  dry  cellar  or  other  cool  place  for 
the  night.  On  the  following  morning  these  bunches 
must  be  taken  from  the  receptacles  in  which  they 
were  placed  and  carefully  laid  on  soft  paper  in  the 
bottom  of  a  Rose-box  from  which  the  tray  has  been 
removed,  or,  better  still,  in  a  lady's  cardboard  dress- 
box.  On  arriving  at  the  exhibition  the  bunches 
should  at  once  be  placed  in  water  in  the  vases  in 
which  they  are  to  be  exhibited.  The  same  principle 
should  be  followed  as  when  setting  up  exhibition 
Roses  ;  that  is  to  say,  the  largest  bunches  should  be 
placed  at  the  back,  the  smallest  in  the  front,  and  the 
light  and  dark  varieties  arranged  as  far  as  possible 
alternately,  using  larger  and  higher  vases  for  the 
bunches  in  the  back  row  than  for  those  in  the  front. 
Bunches  of  garden  Roses  should  not  be  crowded,  or 
the  foliage  and  habit  will  not  be  properly  shown. 


CHAPTER   XXII 

ROSES    UNDER    GLASS 

To  the  true  lover  of  the  Rose  it  is  a  great  deprivation 
to  have  Roses  in  flower  during  less  than  half  the  year, 
which  must  be  the  case  if  they  be  only  cultivated  in 
the  open  ground.  It  is,  however,  possible  to  have 
Roses  in  bloom  all  the  year  round  if  they  be  grown 
under  glass  as  well  as  in  the  garden,  although  the 
supply  of  blooms  may  be  scanty  during  the  most 
gloomy  part  of  the  winter.  For  it  is  the  paucity  of 
sunshine  and  its  feeble  character  which  render  the 
growth  of  the  Queen  of  Flowers  under  glass  in  this 
country  so  much  less  satisfactory  at  that  season  than 
in  America  and  other  lands  where  the  winter  sunshine 
is  stronger  and  more  frequent.  To  dwellers  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  large  towns  where  Roses  cannot  be 
successfully  cultivated  in  the  open  ground,  a  Rose 
house  is  a  great  boon,  as  the  plants  can  there  be 
grown  in  the  soil  best  suited  to  their  requirements, 
and  the  foliage  kept  clean  by  frequent  syringeing. 
As  roses  delight  in  a  free,  cool  and  rather  humid  at- 
mosphere and  in  an  unrestricted  root-run,  they  do  not 
naturally  adapt  themselves  to  ordinary  greenhouse 
culture.  If,  however,  their  requirements  be  under- 
stood and  complied  with  as  well  as  the  altered  cir- 
cumstances under  which  they  are  grown  will  admit, 


ANNA  OLIVIER  (T.),  PALE  BUFF,  FLUSHED, 


MRS.   W.  J.  GRANT  (H.T.),  BRIGHT  ROSY  PINK, 


ROSES   UNDER    GLASS  135 

the  cultivation  of  Roses  under  glass  will  not  present 
any  difficulties  worth  mentioning,  notwithstanding 
the  fact  that  the  plants  will  be  called  upon  to  flower 
at  a  time  of  year  when  out-of-doors  they  would  be 
taking  their  annual  period  of  rest.  There  are  two 
ways  of  growing  Roses  under  glass,  each  of  which 
has  its  own  distinct  advantage :  (1)  they  can  be 
cultivated  in  pots,  or  (2)  planted  out  in  specially  pre- 
pared borders. 

Roses  in  Pots. — This  is  the  simplest  plan,  and  the 
one  most  frequently  adopted,  as  any  light  heated 
greenhouse  will  answer  the  purpose.  On  the  other 
hand,  unless  certain  plants  be  specially  prepared 
beforehand  for  late  autumn  and  early  winter  flower- 
ing, others  for  forcing  in  heat  so  as  to  bloom  in  the 
dead  of  winter,  and  the  remainder  to  flower  from 
March  onwards,  the  period  of  blooming  is  restricted 
to  about  a  month  or  six  weeks  in  the  spring.  The 
usual  custom  is  for  young  plants  to  be  purchased  in 
pots  from  the  Rose  nurseries  in  September  ready 
prepared.  The  plants  when  received  should  be 
placed  under  a  north  wall,  and  allowed  to  remain 
there  until  they  are  taken  into  the  greenhouse  early 
in  December,  so  as  to  keep  the  leaf-buds  in  a 
dormant  state.  Should  severe  weather  set  in  before 
this,  some  protection  from  frost  must  be  afforded 
them  at  night.  When  housed,  ample  ventilation 
should  be  given,  and  but  little  fire  heat,  or  the  leaf- 
buds  will  begin  to  push  before  the  plants  are  pruned 
at  the  beginning  of  January.     The  pruning  of  these 


136     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

young  plants  will  be  very  simple,  as  the  object  should 
mainly  be  to  secure  well-developed  and  strong  shoots 
for  another  season,  rather  than  to  obtain  as  many 
flowers  as  possible  the  first  year.  Therefore  the 
weak  shoots  should  be  cut  clean  out,  and  the  re- 
mainder shortened  back  to  within  two  or  three  eyes. 
Cool  treatment  should  still  be  adopted  until  the  young 
shoots  appear,  when  the  heat  may  be  slightly  in- 
creased, for  it  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  that 
the  more  gradual  the  progress  the  plants  make,  the 
better  will  be  the  ultimate  results.  For  this  a  steady 
but  moderate  warmth  should,  as  far  as  practicable,  be 
always  maintained.  Great  care  must  be  given  to 
the  admission  of  air,  so  that  the  atmosphere  in  the 
house  may  be  buoyant  and  yet  without  cold  draughts. 
For  instance,  in  ordinary  weather  the  top  ventilators 
should  be  slightly  opened  on  the  side  of  the  house 
opposite  to  that  from  which  the  wind  may  at  the  time 
be  blowing.  In  very  cold  or  rough  weather  the  ven- 
tilators must  either  be  kept  closed  altogether,  or  a 
little  air  be  cautiously  admitted  in  the  middle  of  the 
day  for  an  hour  or  so,  as  circumstances  may  direct. 
Another  very  important  point  is  watering.  In  the 
early  stages  of  growth  the  plants  should  be  kept  on 
rather  the  dry  side,  but  as  the  foliage  develops  the 
supply  of  water  should  be  gradually  increased.  When 
the  flower-buds  appear,  weak  liquid  manure  may  be 
given  at  every  alternate  watering. 

Excellent  liquid  manures  may  be  made  by  putting 
half  a  bushel  of  either  fresh  horse  droppings  or  cow 
manure,  or  four  pounds  of  soot,  into  a  coarse  bag,  and 


tq  < 

:?,  o 


^  ^i  £ 

§^ 
o  ^ 

o 
hi  ^ 

r 


ROSES   UNDER   GLASS  137 

suspending  the  bag  in  a  tub  containing  twenty  gallons 
of  water.  The  liquid  animal  manure  may  be  used  for 
a  time,  and  then  as  a  change  the  soot  water  substi- 
tuted. Much  of  the  success  of  Rose  growing  under 
glass  depends  upon  judicious  watering — that  is  to  say, 
on  giving  plenty  of  water  whenever  the  plants  really 
require  it,  and  thus  avoiding  the  objectionable  practice 
of  mere  surface  sprinkling  at  each  time  of  watering, 
whatever  the  requirements  of  the  individual  plants  at 
the  time  may  be.  Plenty  of  room  should  be  allowed 
between  the  plants,  so  that  light  and  air  can  reach  all 
parts  of  them ;  with  the  same  object  the  best  of  the 
new  growths  when  sufficiently  long  should  be  secured 
to  light  sticks  placed  near  the  edge  of  the  pots.  At 
the  same  time  it  will  be  necessary  to  remove  altogether 
any  of  the  new  shoots  which  may  not  be  required  to 
furnish  the  plant.  Four  to  six  flowering  shoots  will 
be  found  as  a  rule  sufficient  for  such  young  plants. 
At  this  stage  about  an  inch  of  the  surface  soil  in  the 
pots  should  be  removed,  and  a  mixture  of  well- 
decayed  manure  and  leaf-mould  substituted.  This 
surface  dressing  will  tend  to  keep  the  roots  cool  and 
moist ;  it  should  not,  however,  be  thicker  than  the  soil 
removed  from  the  pots,  or  there  will  not  be  sufficient 
space  left  for  watering. 

On  every  fine  morning,  from  the  time  the  Roses  are 
pruned,  the  plants  should  be  syringed  until  the  new 
shoots  are  about  an  inch  in  length ;  then  stop 
syringeing  and  sprinkle  the  floor  to  keep  the  atmos- 
phere fairly  moist.  It  may  appear  strange  that  in  the 
dull  months  of  the  year  this  "  damping  down  "  should 


138     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

be  necessary,  when  the  outer  atmosphere  is  mostly  so 
humid,  but  few  people  are  aware  how  dry  the  air  in  a 
greenhouse  can  become  under  such  conditions,  and 
more  particularly  when  there  is  considerable  difference 
between  the  inside  and  outside  temperatures.  When 
the  plants  are  in  bloom  the  house  should  be  shaded 
during  the  sunniest  part  of  the  day,  and  air  admitted 
to  reduce  the  temperature  inside  the  house.  By  this 
means  the  flowering  period  will  be  extended,  and  the 
individual  flowers  will  be  finer  than  would  otherwise 
be  the  case. 

Insect  and  other  Pests. — As  with  such  pests  in  the 
open  ground,  so  with  those  in  the  house,  prompt 
measures  are  the  only  safeguard.  The  three  great 
enemies  of  the  Rose  under  glass  are  aphides  or  green- 
fly, red  spider,  and  mildew. 

Aphides  can  be  readily  kept  under  by  fumigation, 
which  should  be  carried  out  the  evening  after  the  first 
greenfly  is  met  with,  and  the  dose  repeated  on  the 
following  night.  A  careful  watch  should  be  kept  for 
the  reappearance  of  this  pest,  and  the  same  plan 
followed  as  before.  If  these  directions  be  only  faith- 
fully carried  out,  greenfly  will  give  little  trouble. 
Richards'  X.L.  All  vaporizing  Liquid,  or  other  similar 
preparation  of  nicotine,  used  according  to  the  instruc- 
tions supplied  with  it,  will  be  found  simple,  cleanly, 
and  effectual. 

Red  Spider. — This  usually  appears  in  spring  when 
the  air  in  the  house  has  been  allowed  to  become  too 
dry.  In  order  to  destroy  this  pest  the  under  side  of 
the  foliage  should  be  frequently  syringed  with  clear 


ROSES   UNDER   GLASS  139 

water,  and  at  the  same  time  the  plants  should  not  be 
allowed  to  become  dry  at  the  roots.  In  addition  to  this 
the  hot-water  pipes  should  be  smeared  with  sulphur 
made  into  a  paste  by  the  addition  of  a  little  milk. 

Mildew. — This  is  the  most  troublesome  enemy  of 
all  to  deal  with  in  a  Rose  house  if  once  allowed  to 
establish  itself,  but  if  dealt  with  very  promptly  it  can 
readily  be  kept  in  check.  It  most  frequently  arises 
from  injudicious  ventilation  causing  cold  draughts 
of  air  to  descend  upon  the  tender  foliage,  for  although 
Roses  like  a  buoyant  atmosphere  they  soon  suffer 
if  exposed  to  a  cold  current  of  air,  and  more  parti- 
cularly if  the  house  has  previously  been  kept  too  hot 
or  too  close.  The  two  great  safeguards  against  mildew 
are  judicious  ventilation,  and  coating  the  water  pipes 
with  sulphur  as  recommended  for  red  spider  as  soon 
as  the  plants  come  into  leaf.  This  coating  should 
be  renewed  about  once  a  fortnight,  for  nothing  will 
prevent  the  spores  of  mildew  from  finding  congenial 
resting-places  more  effectually  than  the  fumes  of 
sulphur.  However,  notwithstanding  all  these  pre- 
cautions, should  the  slightest  trace  of  mildew  be  seen, 
the  plants  affected,  as  well  as  the  plants  near  them, 
should  be  at  once  dusted  over  with  flowers  of  sulphur. 

Rose  Grubs. — In  the  early  stages  of  growth  these 
should  be  sought  for  and  destroyed  as  soon  as  detected, 
hand  picking  being  the  only  effectual  remedy.  But 
these  pests  will  not  be  found  nearly  as  numerous  as 
in  the  case  of  Roses  grown  in  the  open  air. 

The  Summer  Treatment  of  Pot  Plants. — When  the 
plants  have  flowered  more  air  should  gradually  be 


i4o     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

admitted  and  the  temperature  gradually  lowered  so 
as  to  prepare  them  for  removal  from  the  house.  The 
middle  of  June  is  quite  soon  enough,  as  the  plants 
should  be  encouraged  to  make  new  growth  before  being 
placed  outside.  An  open  spot,  handy  for  watering, 
should  be  chosen  for  the  summer  quarters  of  these 
pot  plants,  and  the  pots  plunged  to  their  rim  in  ashes 
in  order  to  keep  the  roots  cool  and  to  check  evapora- 
tion. The  endeavour  at  that  season  should  be  to 
obtain  strong  new  growths  which  will  become  well 
ripened  by  the  autumn.  For  this  purpose  the  wants  of 
the  plants  should  receive  frequent  attention  in  the  way 
of  watering,  the  destruction  of  insect  pests,  and  dusting 
with  sulphur  on  the  first  appearance  of  mildew.  All 
the  flower-buds  will  also  require  to  be  removed  as 
they  appear.  It  is  to  the  absence  of  reasonable  care 
of  pot  Roses  during  the  summer  months  that  much  of 
the  want  of  success  in  growing  them  may  often  be 
traced.  Occasional  waterings  with  weak  liquid  manure 
will  be  found  of  much  service. 

Repotting. — As  soon  as  the  plants  have  flowered,  the 
roots  and  drainage  should  be  examined.  If  any  plant 
be  found  to  require  moving  into  a  pot  a  size  larger, 
this  must  be  at  once  done,  taking  care  to  disturb 
the  roots  as  little  as  possible,  and  to  ram  down  the 
new  soil  firmly  with  a  potting  stick  between  the 
pot  and  the  old  soil.  A  suitable  compost  would 
be  one  composed  of  one  half  fibrous  loam,  one  quarter 
old  cow  manure,  and  the  remaining  quarter  leaf- 
mould,  sand,  and  bone  meal  in  equal  quantities. 
Where   it   is   found   that   the    roots   have    not   made 


ROSES   UNDER   GLASS  141 

sufficient  growth  to  warrant  the  plants  being  repotted, 
they  should  be  returned  to  the  pots  they  previously 
occupied  after  the  drainage  has  been  seen  to ;  in  that 
case  some  of  the  surface  soil  should  be  replaced 
by  some  of  the  above-mentioned  compost.  All  the 
plants  may  then  be  well  watered.  Until  the  roots 
have  found  their  way  into  the  new  soil  and  fresh 
growths  have  been  made,  the  plants  should  remain 
in  the  greenhouse. 

In  order  to  make  these  instructions  as  clear  and 
simple  as  possible,  they  have  been  so  far  confined  to 
the  first  year's  treatment  of  young  plants  purchased 
in  the  autumn  from  the  nurseries  and  grown  to  flower 
in  the  following  April  or  May,  because,  for  any  one 
commencing  Rose  culture  under  glass,  this  plan  is 
the  easiest  and  the  most  satisfactory  to  follow.  There 
are,  however,  two  other  methods  which  may  be  after- 
wards adopted  with  pot  Roses.  The  plants  can  be 
raised  from  cuttings  struck  in  the  way  recommended 
on  p.  in,  or  young  plants  may  be  potted  up  from 
the  open  ground,  which  is  far  preferable,  particularly 
for  H.P.'s  and  H.T.'s  ;  in  the  latter  case  the  plants 
may  either  be  taken  up  from  the  Rose  garden,  or 
maiden  plants  obtained  from  the  Rose  nurseries. 
But  whichever  plan  be  adopted,  the  earlier  they  can 
be  potted  in  October,  while  most  of  the  leaves  are 
still  on  the  plants,  the  better  will  be  the  result. 

Having  selected  a  pot  of  a  suitable  size,  and  it 
should  not  be  larger  than  will  allow  reasonable  room 
for  the  roots,  say,  from  eight  to  ten  inches  across, 
according  to  the  vigour  of  the  plant,  all  the  stronger 


1 42     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

roots  should  be  shortened,  but  on  the  other  hand 
all  the  fibrous  ones  retained  and  without  any  cur- 
tailment. For  compost  it  would  be  well  to  use  that 
advised  under  the  head  of  "  Repotting  "  (p.  140).  Do 
not  plant  too  deeply,  as  the  tendency  of  the  new 
roots  will  be  to  strike  downwards,  and  yet  sufficient 
space  must  be  allowed  above  for  watering.  Very  firm 
potting  is  advisable  ;  in  fact  the  soil  cannot  well  be 
made  too  firm  for  Roses.  When  potted  the  plants 
should  be  well  watered  and  then  placed  under  a  north 
wall.  After  this,  until  they  are  taken  into  the  house 
in  December,  but  little  water  will  be  needed.  Early 
in  January  the  plants  should  be  pruned  rather  hard — 
that  is  to  say,  all  the  sappy,  weak,  and  crowded  shoots 
should  be  cut  clean  out,  and  the  well-ripened  ones 
that  remain  shortened  back  to  two  or  three  eyes. 
After  this  time  the  plants  should  be  treated  through- 
out the  winter,  spring,  and  summer  in  all  respects 
as  has  been  recommended  for  young  plants  purchased 
in  pots  from  the  nurseries  (see  pp.  135  to  138).  The 
fire  heat  given  should  be  very  moderate,  as  these 
Roses  have  been  so  recently  potted,  and  therefore 
but  a  small  proportion  of  their  roots  will  be  as  yet 
in  active  growth. 

Whether  the  plants  are  purchased  plants,  raised 
from  cuttings  or  potted  up  from  the  open  ground, 
they  must  in  the  second  and  following  years  be 
submitted  to  the  same  routine  of  treatment  as  in 
the  first  year,  except  that  the  pruning  should  be 
less  severe.  A  little  experience  with  pot  Roses  will 
show  that  with  their  roots  thus  confined  the  annual 


ROSES   UNDER   GLASS  143 

growth  made  is  very  moderate  indeed  compared 
with  that  of  the  same  varieties  in  the  open  ground. 
Consequently,  if  pruned  as  hard,  most  of  the  shoots 
made  during  the  previous  summer  would  be  entirely 
removed  ;  whereas  it  is  important  that  as  many  of 
these  shoots  as  possible  should  be  retained.  After 
the  dead  wood  and  any  weak  or  crowded  growths 
in  the  centre  of  the  plant  have  been  cut  clean  out, 
the  remaining  shoots  of  the  past  season's  growth 
should  be  pruned  from  one-third  to  one-half  of 
their  length,  according  to  their  strength,  the  stronger 
growths  being  left  the  longer  of  the  two.  The  aim 
should  be  to  obtain  a  well-balanced  plant  with  a 
moderate  number  of  good  shoots  as  equally  distri- 
buted round  it  as  possible.  In  order  to  obtain  this, 
it  will  be  advisable  after  pruning  to  fasten  a  wire 
round  the  rim  of  the  pot,  and  to  tie  out  any  shoots 
that  may  require  it  to  the  wire  with  raffia,  taking 
care  not  to  break  any  of  them  in  so  doing ;  or 
light  Hazel  sticks  may  be  inserted  at  intervals  round 
the  pots  and  the  shoots  secured  to  them.  In  the  case 
of  very  vigorous  growers,  the  leading  shoots  should 
be  bent  spirally  round  the  ring  of  sticks. 

Forcing  Roses. — If  the  plants  be  required  to  flower 
towards  the  end  of  the  winter  instead  of  in  the 
spring  more  skill  and  care  will  be  necessary,  for 
Roses  naturally  object  to  much  fire  heat,  and  the 
lack  of  sunshine  at  that  season  is  another  drawback. 
For  this  purpose  plants  should  be  selected  which 
have  been  grown  as  previously  directed  for  at  least 
one  year  under  glass,  with  the  pots  well  filled  with 


i44     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

roots  ;  or,  if  preferred,  Roses  specially  prepared  for 
forcing  may  be  purchased.  If  any  repotting  be 
required,  it  should  be  done  in  May.  After  they 
have  been  placed  in  the  house  in  November  very 
little  heat  should  be  at  first  given,  but  it  may  be 
very  gradually  increased  as  the  new  growths  appear. 
The  ventilation  should  also  be  gradually  lessened. 
As  before  recommended,  the  plants  should  be  fre- 
quently syringed  until  the  new  growths  are  about  an 
inch  in  length  ;  but  after  this  the  floor  should,  instead, 
be  sprinkled  freely  with  water  on  all  but  dull,  damp 
days,  or  mildew  may  result.  Indeed  the  great  enemy 
to  guard  against  is  mildew,  which  is  a  certain  sign 
of  some  defect  in  the  treatment,  either  in  watering, 
the  admission  of  air,  or  the  exposure  of  the  plants 
to  sudden  changes  of  temperature. 

Roses  in  Beds. — This  is  really  the  most  natural 
way  of  growing  Roses  under  glass,  and  if  the  choice 
be  restricted  to  the  most  free-flowering  of  the  Teas 
and  Hybrid  Teas,  they  may,  if  properly  managed, 
be  kept  in  bloom  from  the  beginning  of  November 
till  the  end  of  May,  or  during  the  entire  period  that 
no  Roses  are  obtainable  from  the  open  ground,  al- 
though, as  before  stated,  there  may  be  but  very  few 
blooms  to  be  had  during  January  and  February. 

In  order  to  make  this  method  of  growing  Roses 
a  complete  success,  a  house  should  be  specially 
built.  A  span-roof  house  running  north  and  south 
will  be  best,  as  the  sunshine  will  then  be  more 
equally  distributed  over    it.     The  walls  on  the  east 


ROSES   UNDER   GLASS  145 

and  west  sides  should  be  about  three  feet  high,  and 
the  eaves  be  raised  only  about  a  foot  above  them 
so  as  to  admit  as  much  light  to  the  plants  as  possible. 
The  roof  should  be  constructed  so  that  the  lights 
between  the  main  rafters  can  be  entirely  removed 
during  the  summer  months.  This  is  very  important, 
for  without  some  such  arrangement  the  growth  of  the 
plants  during  that  season  will  be  arrested  by  the  hot 
and  dry  atmosphere  within  the  house,  and  red  spider 
will  with  difficulty  be  kept  in  check.  The  beds  down 
each  side  should  be  three  feet  six  inches  wide  so 
as  to  allow  of  two  rows  of  plants ;  the  stronger- 
growing  varieties  being  placed  at  the  back.  If  the 
house  be  sufficiently  wide  to  allow  of  a  central  bed 
of  the  same  width  as  the  two  side  beds,  this  might 
with  advantage  be  planted  with  half  standards.  Venti- 
lators should  be  inserted  in  the  centre  of  each  light 
near  the  ridge  so  that  air  may  be  admitted  on  either 
side  of  the  house,  as  circumstances  may  direct,  and  to 
the  extent  required. 

The  spaces  allotted  for  the  beds  should  be  cleared 
out  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  eight  inches.  In  the 
bottom  should  be  placed  a  layer  of  stones  six  inches 
deep,  and  above  this  a  layer  of  gravel  or  other  small 
stones  to  the  depth  of  another  two  inches  in  order 
to  ensure  perfect  drainage.  The  spaces  should  then 
be  filled  up  with  the  compost,  consisting  of  six  parts 
turfy  loam  rather  finely  chopped,  two  parts  well- 
decayed  manure,  one  part  leaf  mould,  and  the  re- 
maining part  half-inch  bones  and  coarse  sand  in 
equal    quantities.      The   inner  walls    supporting  the 


146     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

beds  need  not  be  more  than  half  a  brick  thick.  The 
Roses  should  be  planted  two  feet  six  inches  apart,  and 
in  the  same  way  as  recommended  for  outside  plant- 
ing (p.  96).  It  is  advisable  to  begin  with  young 
plants  from  the  open  ground,  either  procured  from 
the  Rose  nurseries  early  in  November,  or  taken  up 
in  that  month  from  the  Rose  garden.  Any  kinds 
of  Roses  can  be  grown  in  such  a  Rose  house,  but 
Teas  are  especially  recommended  on  account  of 
their  naturally  perpetual  flowering  habit,  and  also 
because,  more  than  any  other  class  of  Rose,  they 
appreciate  the  shelter  from  all  adverse  weather  con- 
ditions. Very  little  warmth  should  be  given,  and 
when  young  leaves  appear  at  the  ends  of  the  shoots 
these  shoots  should  be  cut  back  half  their  length. 
The  first  winter  must  necessarily  be  a  barren  one, 
but  there  may  be  a  moderate  number  of  small  blooms 
in  the  spring.  The  same  routine  of  treatment  advised 
for  pot  Roses  under  glass  should  throughout  their 
growth  be  adopted  (see  p.  135).  In  the  summer 
the  lights  should  be  entirely  removed  from  the  roof, 
so  that  the  plants,  during  the  hottest  part  of  the  year, 
may  be  virtually  growing  in  the  open  air.  At  the 
end  of  that  season,  if  the  plants  have  received  due 
attention  as  to  watering,  &c,  they  should  have  made 
good  growth.  In  September  the  lights  should  be 
replaced  on  the  roof,  but  ample  ventilation  should 
be  given,  and  water  entirely  withheld,  in  order  to 
give  the  plants  as  far  as  possible  a  period  of  rest. 
In  October  they  will  require  pruning — that  is  to  say, 
some   of   the   weak  and   crowded    shoots    should   be 


ROSES   UNDER   GLASS  147 

removed,  and  the  remainder  shortened  back  about 
one-third  of  their  length.  After  a  week  the  plants 
should  be  well  watered  with  clear  water  and  syringed 
every  morning,  the  floor  of  the  house  at  the  same 
time  being  freely  wetted.  Should  the  nights  a  little 
later  prove  cold,  some  fire  heat  should  be  given, 
but  only  enough  to  keep  the  plants  slowly  growing. 
On  all  bright  days  the  top  ventilators  may  be  opened 
on  the  side  opposite  to  that  quarter  from  which  the 
wind  happens  to  be  blowing.  On  the  appearance  of 
the  flower-buds,  very  weak  liquid  manure  should  be 
given  liberally  once  a  fortnight. 

As  the  weather  becomes  colder  more  heat  will 
have  to  be  given,  but  the  temperature  should  not 
be  allowed  to  rise  above  sixty  degrees  in  the  day- 
time or  to  fall  lower  than  forty-five  degrees  at  night. 
In  this  way  a  fair  number  of  flowers  may  be  obtained 
until  about  Christmas,  and  a  flower  here  and  there 
until  March.  If  the  plants  be  again  lightly  pruned  in 
January,  with  the  help  of  increasing  sunshine  there 
will  be  a  goodly  number  until  nearly  June.  The  lights 
must  once  more  be  taken  from  the  roof  and  the  same 
routine  as  before  followed  in  preparation  for  the  third 
year's  crop  of  flowers,  in  the  late  autumn,  winter  and 
spring. 

Climbing  Roses  under  Glass. — Nothing  has  been 
before  said  about  climbing  Roses.  They  are  un- 
suitable for  any  house  specially  devoted  to  Roses, 
because  they  shut  out  so  much  of  that  sunlight  from 
the  other  Roses  which  is  so  needful  for  their  welfare 
throughout    the  winter    and    early    spring    months. 


148     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

These  rampant  varieties  should  therefore  be  grown 
in  other  houses  where  their  presence  will  be  less 
objectionable.  Climbing  Roses,  whether  dwarf  plants 
or  on  standards,  are  best  planted  outside  the  green- 
house in  a  well-cultivated  and  manured  border  and 
their  leading  shoots  brought  into  it  and  trained  up 
the  roof.  They  should  be  pruned  after  they  have 
flowered,  and  each  year  a  good  deal  of  the  older 
wood  removed  in  order  to  make  room  for  the  shoots 
which  will  be  formed  during  the  current  year,  and 
thus  enable  them  to  become  well  ripened  before  the 
winter  sets  in.  As  a  protection  against  injury  from 
frost,  hay-bands  may  with  advantage  be  wound  round 
the  stocks  of  the  standards  outside  the  house  early 
in  December,  and  some  bracken  or  other  dry  and 
light  material  placed  over  the  exposed  portion  of 
the  dwarf  plants. 


CHAPTER    XXIII 

SOME    LISTS   OF   THE    BEST   ROSES    FOR 
VARIOUS    USES 

Abbreviations,  &c,  used  in  the  Following  Lists 

A.       Autumn-flowering.        Roses  H.C.   Hybrid  China. 

which  flower  in  the  summer,  and  H.N.  Hybrid  Noisette. 

again,  with  more  or  less  freedom,  HP.   Hybrid  Perpetual. 

in  the  autumn.  H.T.  Hybrid  Tea. 

S.       Summer-flowering.        Roses  N.  Noisette. 

which  only  flower  once  within  a  Pom.  Pompon. 

year.  Sin.  Single-flowered. 
CI.  Poly.  Climbing  Polyantha. 

By  "exhibition  Roses"  is  meant  those  varieties 
which  are  sufficiently  large  and  perfect  in  form  to  be 
staged  as  separate  blooms  in  boxes  at  the  exhibitions. 
By  "garden  Roses"  is  meant  all  other  varieties 
which  are  never  so  exhibited — except  in  those  cases 
where  an  exhibition  Rose  is  described  as  good  both 
for  exhibition  and  for  garden  decoration. 

SELECT  LIST  OF  ROSES  FOR  EXHIBITION 

In  the  following  selections  the  varieties  have  been 
arranged,  under  their  different  colours,  according  to 
the  average  number  of  times  they  were  staged  in  the 
prize  stands  at  the  recent  leading  exhibitions  of  the 
National  Rose  Society. 


150     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 


EXHIBITION   ROSES 

HYBRID    PERPETUALS   AND    HYBRID    TEAS 

White  and  Cream 


Bessie  Brown  (H.T.). 
Kaiserin     Augusta    Victoria 
(H.T.). 


Marchioness  of  Londonderry. 
Margaret  Dickson. 
White  Lady  (H.T.). 


N.B. — Mildred  Grant  (H.T.) ;  a  lovely  new  creamy  white 
variety ;  it  should  be  included  in  every  exhibitor's  collection, 
however  small. 

Pink  and  Pale  Rose 


Mrs.  John  Laing. 
Caroline  Testout  (H.T.). 
Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (H.T.). 
Her  Majesty. 

Mrs.  R.   G.  Sharman-Craw- 
ford. 


La  France  (H.T.). 
Madame  Gabriel  Luizet. 
Ulster. 

Killarney  (H.T.). 
Baroness  Rothschild. 


Medium  Red  and  Rose 


Ulrich  Brunner. 
Marquise  Litta  (H.T.) 
Gustave  Piganeau. 
Suzanne  M.  Rodocanachi. 
Francois  Michelon. 


A.  K.  Williams. 
Captain  Hayward. 
Alfred  Colomb. 
Marie  Baumann. 
Fisher  Holmes. 
Victor  Hugo. 


Helen  Keller. 
Dupuy  Jamain. 
Etienne  Levet. 
Tom  Wood. 
Duchesse  de  Morny. 

Crimson 

Comte  de  Raimbaud. 
General  Jacqueminot. 
Duke  of  Edinburgh. 
Dr.  Andry. 
E.  Y.  Teas. 
Duchess  of  Bedford. 


N.B. — The  latest  addition  in  this   colour  is  Ben  Cant, 
most  promising  new  Hybrid  Perpetual. 


LISTS   OF   THE   BEST   ROSES        15 


Horace  Vernet. 
Earl  of  Dufferin. 
Prince  Arthur. 
Charles  Lefebvre. 


Dark  Crimson 


Duke  of  Wellington. 
Louis  Van  Houtte. 
Xavier  Olibo. 


TEAS   AND    NOISETTES 
White  and  Cream 


White  Maman  Cochet. 
The  Bride. 
Innocente  Pirola. 
Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince. 


Muriel  Grahame. 
Souvenir  d'Elise  Vardon. 
Niphetos. 


Pink  and  Pale  Rose 


Maman  Cochet. 

Catherine  Mermet. 

Madame  Cusin. 

Bridesmaid. 

Mrs.  Edward  Mawley. 


Souvenir  d'un  Ami. 
Madame  de  Watteville. 
Ernest  Metz. 
Cleopatra. 


Yellow,  Buff,  and  Orange 


Comtesse  de  Nadaillac. 
Madame  Hoste. 
Marechal  Niel  (N.). 
Medea. 


Marie  Van  Houtte. 
Caroline  Kuster  (N.). 
Anna  Olivier. 


N.B. — Lady  Roberts,  a  beautiful  salmon  pink  sport  from 
Anna  Olivier,  judging  by  the  blooms  recently  exhibited, 
promises  to  be  a  charming  addition  to  the  Tea  and  Noisette 
section. 


GARDEN  OR  DECORATIVE  ROSES 

In  the  following  list  the  varieties  have  been  arranged 
according  to  the  number  of  times  they  were  staged  in 
the   prize    stands   at   the    Exhibition    held   last  year  in    the 


52     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 


Temple  Gardens,  which  was  an  unusually  large  and  repre- 
sentative one : — 


Gustave  Regis  (H.T.). 
Marquise  de  Salisbury  (H.T.). 
William  Allen  Richardson  (N .) 
Madame      Pernet      Ducher 

(H.T.). 
Rosa  ?nacrantha  (Sin.). 
Turner's    Crimson    Rambler 

(CI.  Poly.). 
Camoens  (H.T.). 
Madame   Chedane    Guinois- 

seau  (T.). 
Bardou  Job  (H.T.). 
Alister  Stella  Gray  (N.). 
L'ld^al  (N.). 
Madame  Falcot  (T.). 
Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg 

(H.T.). 
Souvenir  de  Catherine  Guillot 

(T). 
Paul's  Carmine  Pillar  (Sin.). 


The  Garland  (H.C.). 
Claire  Jacquier  (CI.  Poly.). 
Anne  of  Geierstein   (Sweet- 
brier). 
Laurette  Messimy  (C). 
Ma  Capucine  (T). 
Mignonette  (Pom.). 
Papillon  (T.). 
Paul's  Single  White  (Sin.). 
Crested  Moss  (Moss). 
Homere  (T). 
Perle  d'Or  (Pom.). 
Rosa  moschata  alba  (Sin.). 
Rosa  Mundi  (Damask). 
Brenda  (Sweet-brier). 
Madame  Pierre  Cochet  (T.). 
Meg  Merrilies  (Sweet-brier). 
Red  Damask  (Damask). 
Rosa  himalayaca  (Sin.). 
Rosa  lucida  plena. 


THE  BEST  ROSES  FOR  GROWING  UNDER  GLASS 


Anna  Olivier  (T). 
Baroness  Rothschild  (H.P.) 
Bridesmaid  (T). 
Captain  Hayward  (H.P.). 
Catherine  Mermet  (T.). 
Caroline  Testout  (H.T.). 
General  Jacqueminot  (H.P.). 
Innocente  Pirola  (T.). 
La  France  (H.T.). 
Liberty  (H.T.). 
Madame  de  Watteville  (T.). 
Madame  Hoste  (T.). 
Madame  Lambard  (T.). 
Marie  Van  Houtte  (T.). 
Merveille  de  Lyon  (H.P.). 


Mrs.  John  Laing  (H.P). 

Mrs.  R.  G.  Sharman  -  Craw- 
ford (H.P). 

Mrs.  W.  J.  Grant  (H.T.). 

Niphetos  (T). 

Perle  des  Jardins  (T.). 

Souvenir    de    S.    A.    Prince 
(T). 

Souvenir  d'un  Ami  (T). 

S.  M.  Rodocanachi  (H.P.). 

Sunrise  (T). 

The  Bride  (T.). 

Ulrich  Brunner  (H.P.). 

Viscountess         Folkestone 
(H.T.) 


LISTS   OF  THE   BEST   ROSES        153 

CLIMBING   VARIETIES 

Climbing  Niphetos  (T.).  I    Marshal  Niel  (N.). 
Climbing  Perle  des  Jardins        Turner's    Crimson   Rambler 

(T.).  (CI.  Poly.). 

Fortune's  Yellow  (N.).  I    WilliamAllenRichardson(N.). 

In  the  following  list  will  be  found,  alphabetically  arranged, 
a  selection  from  the  choicest  varieties  of  Roses  now  in  culti- 
vation.    The  varieties  marked  with  an  asterisk  make  good 
standards : — 
Aimie  Vibert(N.). — Pure  white;  late  flowering ;  very  vigorous 

and  almost  evergreen.     Flowers  in  clusters.     (A.) 
A.  K.    Williams  (H.P.). — Carmine;   early  flowering   and  of 

moderate  growth.     One  of  the  most  perfect  in  form  of 

all  exhibition  Roses.     (A.) 
*  Alfred  Colomb  (H.P.). — Carmine;  late  flowering  ;  vigorous, 

and  fragrant.     A  fine  exhibition  variety.     (A.) 
Alister  Stella    Gray   (N.). — Pale   yellow;    a   good   climbing 

Rose ;  flowers  in  clusters.     Flowers  again  in  the  autumn. 

(A.) 
Anna   Olivier  (T.). — Pale   buff;   vigorous;   charming   under 

glass,    but   the   flowers    in  the  open   ground   are  easily 

damaged  by  wet.     (A.) 
Antoine  Rivoire  (H.T.). — Vigorous;  a  good  cream-coloured 

garden  Rose.     (A.) 
Augustine  Guinoisseau  (H.T.). — Blush  white;  vigorous;  very 

free  flowering,  known  as  the  "  White  La  France,"  but  the 

flowers  are  neither  as  large  nor  as  full  as  La  France.    (A.) 
Austrian    Copper  (Austrian    Brier). — Coppery   red   inside   of 

petal,  and  old  gold  outside ;  vigorous.    The  most  beautiful 

of  all  single-flowered  Roses.     (S.) 
Austrian   Yellow  (Austrian  Brier). — Yellow;    vigorous.     Like 

the  foregoing,  except  as  regards  colour.     (S.) 
Bardou  Job  (H.T). — Crimson ;  vigorous ;  bears  large  beauti- 
fully shaded  flowers  which  are  almost  single.     (A.) 


154     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Baroness  Rothschild  (H.P.). — Pink;  upright  growth;  late 
flowering  and  good  in  colour.     Scentless.     (A.) 

Beaute  Inconstante  (N.). — Metallic  red  shaded  yellow;  vigo- 
rous. Distinct  and  charming  in  colour,  but  variable  in 
this  respect,  as  its  name  implies.     (A.) 

Beauty  of  Waltham  (H.P.). — Crimson.  A  useful  exhibition 
Rose.     (A.) 

Ben  Cant  (H.P.). — Crimson  ;  vigorous.  A  new  and  welcome 
addition  to  the  crimson  exhibition  Roses.     (A.) 

Bennett's  Seedling,  or  Thoresbyana  (Ayrshire). — White ;  one 
of  the  very  best  and  hardiest  summer-flowering  climbing 
Roses.     Blooms  in  clusters.     (S.) 

Bessie  Brozvn  (H.T.). — Creamy  white;  vigorous.  Although 
only  sent  out  in  1899  it  was  last  year  to  be  seen  in  nearly 
every  exhibition  stand.  The  first  of  the  really  good 
whites  among  the  H.P.'s  and  H.T.'s.     (A.) 

Bouquet  d' 'Or  (T.). — Dark  yellow;  very  vigorous.  The  best 
of  the  Gloire  de  Dijon  race  in  flower  and  habit  of 
growth ;  but  not  so  free-flowering  as  Gloire  de  Dijon. 
Fragrant.     (A.) 

Bridesmaid  (T.). — Pink ;  moderately  vigorous.  A  deep- 
coloured  sport  from  Catherine  Mermet,  one  of  the  best 
exhibition  Teas.     (A.) 

Camoens  (H.T.). — Rose  ;  vigorous.  A  pretty  free-flowering 
garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Captain  Hayward  (H.P.). — Crimson  ;  vigorous.  One  of  the 
best  crimson  Roses  for  exhibition ;  not  very  full,  but  has 
fine  petals  of  great  substance.     (A.) 

Caroline  Testout  (H.T.). — Pink ;  vigorous.  Takes  a  high 
position  both  as  an  exhibition  and  garden  Rose.  Frag- 
rant.    (A.) 

Catherine  Mermet  (T.). — Pale  pink;  moderately  vigorous. 
One  of  the  best  exhibition  Teas,  and,  like  nearly  all  the 
sports  from  it,  has  the  most  perfectly  formed  flowers  of 
all  the  Teas.     (A.) 


LISTS   OF   THE   BEST   ROSES        155 

Cecile  Brunner  (Pom.). — Pink ;  dwarf.     The  best  of  the  pink 

Pompons.     (A.) 
Charles  Lefebvre  (H.P.). — Dark  crimson;  vigorous.     An  old 

exhibition  Rose,  which  has  never  been  equalled  in  its 

particular  form  and  colour;  few  Roses  are  as  beautiful 

when  it  is  at  its  best.     Fragrant.     (A.) 
Claire  Jacquier  (CI.  Poly.). — Nankeen  yellow ;  a  remarkably 

vigorous  summer-flowering  climber.     Flowers  in  clusters. 

Not  quite  hardy.     (S.) 
Clara  Watson  (H.T). — Rosy  cream  ;  vigorous.    A  free-flower- 
ing garden  Rose.     (A.) 
Common  or  Old  Moss  (Moss). — Pink ;    vigorous ;  one  of  the 

oldest  Roses  grown,  but  still  the  best  of  all  the  Mosses. 

Fragrant.     (S.) 
Common    Provence    or    Cabbage    Rose    (Provence).  —  Pink; 

moderately  vigorous ;  also  one  of  our  oldest  Roses,  but 

still  unequalled  in  its  class.     (S.) 
Common    Sweet-brier  (Sweet  -  brier).  —  Pale  pink ;    vigorous, 

foliage  deliciously  fragrant.     (S.) 
Common  Monthly   or   Old  Blush  (China). — Pink;    vigorous. 

The  most  perpetual  flowering  of  all  Roses.     (A.) 
Comte  de  Baimbaud(H.P.). — Crimson;  vigorous,  a  fine  crimson 

Rose  for  exhibition.     (A.) 
Comtesse  de  Nadaillac  (T). — Peach  shaded  apricot;    growth 

moderate;    grand  exhibition   Tea   Rose.      When  at  its 

best  no  Tea  Rose  is  as  beautiful.     Not  an  easy  Rose  to 

grow.     (A.) 
Cramoisi  Supirieur  (China). — Crimson ;  moderately  vigorous. 

The  best  of  the  crimson  Chinas.     (A.) 
Dr.  Andry  (H.P.). — Crimson;    vigorous;    a  strong -growing 

exhibition  and  garden  Rose.     (A.) 
Dr.  Grill  (T). — Pale  rosy  fawn;    moderately  vigorous.     A 

distinct  and  free-flowering  garden  Rose.     (A.) 
* Duke  of  Edinburgh  (H.P.). — Scarlet  crimson;  vigorous.     A 

bright  and  strong-growing  exhibition  and  garden  Rose.  (A.) 


156     ROSES  FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Felicite-Perpetue  (Evergreen). — Creamy  white.  One  of  the 
best  white  summer-flowering  climbing  Roses.  Blooms 
in  clusters  of  rosette-shaped  flowers.     (S.) 

Fellenberg  (China). — Crimson  ;  vigorous ;  a  good  crimson  in 
this  free-flowering  section.     (A.) 

*  Fisher  Holmes  (H.P .). — Crimson;  vigorous.     A  good  exhibi- 

tion and  garden  Rose.     (A.) 
* General  Jacqueminot  (H.P.). — Crimson;  vigorous;   one   of 
the  oldest  of  the  H.P.'s.     An  excellent  exhibition  and 
garden  Rose.     Fragrant.     (A.) 

*  Gloire  de  Dijon  (T.). — Buff.     The  most  free-flowering  of  all 

climbing  Roses,  and  for  general  usefulness  has  no  equal. 
Fragrant.     (A.) 

Gloire  Lyonnaise  (H.T.). — Lemon  white ;  vigorous  upright 
habit.     A  good  and  distinct  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Gloire  des  Polyantha  (Pom.). — Rose;  dwarf;  an  excellent 
rose-coloured  Pompon.     (A.) 

G.  Nabonnand  (T.). — Pale  flesh;  vigorous;  one  of  the  best 
garden  Roses  of  its  colour.     (A.) 

Griiss  an  Teplitz  (H.T.). — Crimson;  vigorous.  Unequalled 
as  a  free-flowering  crimson  garden  Rose ;  a  fine  acquisi- 
tion.    (A.) 

Gustave  Piganeau  (H.P.). — Shaded  carmine;  growth  moderate ; 
a  fine  and  trustworthy  exhibition  Rose ;  but  by  no  means 
an  easy  Rose  to  grow  in  many  soils.     (A.) 

Gustave  Regis  (H.T.). — Nankeen  yellow ;  vigorous.  The  best 
and  most  vigorous  of  the  yellow  garden  Roses.     (A.) 

Harrisonii  (Austrian  Brier). — Yellow ;  vigorous.  A  very 
pretty  summer-flowering  garden  Rose.     (S.) 

Her  Majesty  (H.P.). — Pale  rose;  vigorous  upright  habit. 
Flowers  very  large.  A  very  fine  late-flowering  exhibi- 
tion Rose.  It  is  very  subject  to  mildew  and  is  scent- 
less.    (A.) 

Horace  Vernet  (H.P.). — Dark  crimson ;  growth  moderate. 
The  most  beautiful  dark  exhibition  Rose  in  cultivation. 
By  no  means  an  easy  Rose  to  grow  in  many  localities. 


LISTS   OF  THE   BEST   ROSES        157 

In  some  gardens  it  grows  as  vigorously  as  other  H.P.'s, 

but  in  most  places  it  makes  but  very  poor  growth.     (A.) 
Innocente  Pirola  (T.). — Creamy  white.     A  fine  exhibition  Tea, 

rather  subject  to  mildew.     (A.) 
Janet 's Pride  (Sweet-brier). — White,  tipped  crimson;  vigorous. 

Almost  single-flowered.     One  of  the  best  of  the  hybrid 

Sweet-briers.     (S.) 
* Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria  (H.T.). — Cream;  vigorous.    One  of 

the  best  of  the  white,  or  nearly  white,  exhibition  H.T.'s. 

There  is  a  climbing  variety  of  this  Rose  which  promises 

to  be  a  great  acquisition.     (A.) 
Killarney    (H.T.). — Pale    pink;    vigorous;    already   a   great 

favourite.      A  good  Rose  for  exhibition,  and  still  more 

valuable  for  garden  decoration.     (A.) 
Lady   Penzance  (Sweet-brier). — Coppery  yellow.      The  most 

charming  of  all  the  hybrid  Sweet-briers.     It  is  said  to 

be  a  cross  between  the  common  Sweet-brier  and  Austrian 

Copper.     (S.) 
*La  France  (H.T.). — Pale  rose;  vigorous.  A  hardy  and  very  free- 
flowering  exhibition  and  garden  Rose.     Fragrant.     (A.) 
*Laurette  Messimy  (China). — Rose ;  vigorous.     A  lovely  semi- 
double  continuous-flowering  garden  Rose.     (A.) 
E  Ideal  (N.). — Metallic    red  ;    vigorous.      A   strong-growing 

garden  Rose.     Distinct  and  charming  in  colour.     (A.) 
Longworth  Rambler  (H.T.). — Crimson.     The  best  of  all  the 

red  climbing  Roses  on  account  of  its  freedom  of  flowering 

in  the  antumn.     (A.) 
Ma  Capucine  (T). — Bronzy  yellow,  shaded  red;  of  moderate 

growth.     The  best  of  all  the  button-hole  Roses;  quite 

distinct  in  colour.     (A.) 
Madame   Abel   Chatenay   (H.T.). — Salmon    pink;    vigorous. 

The  best  garden  Rose  in  its  colour.     (A.) 
Madame  Alfred  Carriere  (H.N.). — White.     The  best  white 

climbing  Rose.     (A.) 
Madame  Anna  Marie  de  Montravel  (Pom.). — Dwarf.     The 

best  of  the  white  Pompons.     (A.) 


158     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Madame    Chidane    Guinoisseau    (T.).  —  Yellow;    moderately 

vigorous.     A  fine  button-hole  Rose.     (A.) 
Madame  Cusin  (T.). — Pale  rose;    upright  growth.     A   good 

exhibition  Tea ;  rather  tender.     (A.) 
Madame  de  Watteville  (T.). — Cream-edged  rose  ;  vigorous.     A 
very  distinct  and  pretty  exhibition  Tea ;  rather  tender.  (A.) 
Madame   Eugene    Resal  (China). — Coppery   rose;    vigorous. 
Much  like  Laurette  Messimy,  but  deeper  in  colour.     (A.) 
Madame  Gabriel  Luizet  (H.P.). — Pink ;    vigorous.      An  ex- 
cellent early-flowering  exhibition  Rose.    It  seldom  flowers 
in  the  autumn.     (S.) 

Madame  Hoste  (T.). — Lemon  yellow;  vigorous.  A  fine  ex- 
hibition and  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Madame  Jules  Grolez  (H.T.). — Clear  rose;  vigorous.  A  very 
distinct  and  free-flowering  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Madame  Lambard  (T). — Salmon  shaded  rose;  vigorous.  A 
good  and  continuous-flowering  garden  Tea.  Very  vari- 
able in  colour.     (A.) 

* Maman  Cochet  (T.). — Pale  pink ;  vigorous.  A  fine  addition 
to  the  exhibition  and  garden  Teas.     (A.) 

Marchioness  of  Londonderry  (H.P.). — Ivory  white;  vigorous 
erect  growth.  Large  petals  of  great  substance.  A  good 
exhibition  Rose.  Colour  too  often  a  very  unpleasant 
shade  of  white.     (A.) 

Marichal  Niel  (N.). — Golden  yellow;  very  vigorous.  The 
finest  yellow  Rose  in  cultivation.  Fragrant.  Very  subject 
to  canker.     (A.) 

Marie  Baumann  (H.P.). — Soft  carmine -red;  moderately 
vigorous.     A  good  exhibition  Rose.     Fragrant.     (A.) 

* Marie  Van  Houtte  (T.). — Lemon  yellow  edged  rose ;  vigorous. 
A  charming  exhibition  and  garden  Tea  of  good  growth.  (A.) 

* Marquise  Litta  (H.T.). — Carmine  rose  ;  vigorous.  A  fine  and 
distinct  early-flowering  exhibition  and  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Meg  Merrilies  (Sweet-brier). — Crimson  ;  very  vigorous.  One 
of  the  best  of  the  Penzance  Sweet-briers.     (S.) 

Mildred  Grant (H.T '.). — White;  vigorous.  This  variety  promises 


LISTS   OF   THE   BEST   ROSES        159 

to  be  one  of  the  most  beautiful  white  Roses  in  the 
Hybrid  Tea  section  ever  raised,  and  consequently  will  be 
a  great  acquisition  to  the  exhibitor.     (A.) 

Mrs.  Bosanquet  (China). — Pale  flesh;  vigorous;  very  free- 
flowering.     (A.) 

Mrs.  Edward  Maw  ley  (T.). — Pink,  tinted  carmine ;  moderately 
vigorous ;  very  free-flowering.  Although  only  sent  out 
in  1899  ^  nas  already  taken  a  high  position  among  the 
exhibition  Teas.     (A.) 

* Mrs.  John  Laing  (H.P.). — Rosy  pink;  vigorous.  Few  Roses 
have  so  many  good  qualities.  It  is  hardy,  of  good 
growth,  and  free-flowering,  and  almost  as  good  in  the 
garden  as  in  the  show.     (A.) 

*Mrs.P.  G.  Sharman- Crawford  (H.P.). — Rosy  pink.  Beautiful 
in  colour,  and  a  fine  early-flowering  exhibition  and 
garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Mrs.W.J.  Grant  (H.T.). — Rosy  pink  ;  moderately  vigorous  ; 
distinct  in  form  and  colour,  and  one  of  the  best  of  our 
exhibition  Roses.  There  is  a  climbing  variety  of  this 
Rose  which  promises  to  be  a  great  acquisition  to  the 
dwarf  climbers.     (A.) 

Muriel  Grahame  (T.). — Pale  cream;  moderately  vigorous. 
Has  all  the  good  qualities  as  an  exhibition  Tea  of  the  fine 
variety,  Catherine  Mermet,  from  which  it  sported.      (A.) 

Paul's  Carmine  Pillar  (Sin. ). — Carmine  ;  very  vigorous.  The 
most  beautiful  red,  climbing,  single-flowered  Rose  that 
has  yet  been  raised.     (S.) 

Perle  des  Rouges  (Pom.). — Crimson ;  dwarf.  The  best  of  the 
red  Pompons.     (A.) 

Persian  Yellow  (Austrian  Brier). — Golden  yellow;  vigorous. 
There  is  no  other  Rose  in  cultivation  of  the  same  bright 
shade  of  yellow.  It  does  not  succeed  in  all  localities, 
and  is  the  first  Rose  to  feel  the  effects  of  a  smoke-laden 
atmosphere.     (S.) 

* Prince  Arthur  (H.P.). — Shaded  crimson  ;  vigorous.  A  good 
exhibition  and  garden  Rose.     (A.) 


160     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

Prince  Camille  de  Rohan  (H.P.). — Crimson  maroon;  vigo- 
rous. The  best  dark  crimson  Rose  for  garden  decora- 
tion.    (A.) 

Reine  Marie  Henriette  (H.T.). — Cherry  carmine.  A  valuable 
red  climbing  Rose  on  account  of  its  autumn-flowering 
qualities.     (A.) 

Reine  Olga  de  Wurtemberg  (H.T.). — Crimson.  Almost  a 
summer-flowering  climbing  Rose,  as  it  yields  so  few 
blooms  in  the  autumn.  There  is  no  red  climber  to  equal 
it  in  colour.     (S.) 

Reve  d'Or  (N.). — Buff  yellow.  A  very  vigorous,  free-flower- 
ing climber.     Not  quite  hardy.     (A.) 

Rosa  alpina  (Sin.). — Rose;  vigorous.  Interesting  on  account 
of  its  being  thornless,  and  also  as  the  earliest  of  all  Roses 
to  bloom.     (S.) 

Rosa  tnacrantha  (Sin.). — Flesh.  One  of  the  best  of  the 
single-flowered  climbers.  Rather  subject  to  mildew. 
(S.) 

Rosa  moschata  =  Brunoni  (Sin.). — White;  a  vigorous  climb- 
ing Rose,  producing  clusters  of  small  white  flowers. 
(S.) 

Rosa  midtiflora  (Sin.),  also  known  as  Rosa  poly antha  simplex 
(single-flowered). — White ;  a  vigorous  climber,  producing 
large  bunches  of  tiny  white  flowers.  Rosa  nndtiflora 
grandiflora  is  of  similar  growth,  but  the  individual 
flowers  are  much  larger.     (S.) 

Rosa  Mundi  (Gallica). — Red,  striped  white ;  moderately  vigo- 
rous. The  best  of  the  so-called  York  and  Lancaster 
Roses.     (S.) 

Rosa  rubrifolia  (Sin.). — Rose;  very  vigorous.  The  flowers 
are  insignificant,  but  the  foliage  is  quite  distinct  from 
that  of  all  other  Roses,  being  of  a  peculiar  purplish-red 
shade.     (S.) 

Rosa  sinica  Anemone  (single-flowered). — Pink  shaded  Rose; 
vigorous.  Both  the  large  single  flowers  and  delicate 
glossy  foliage  are  alike  beautiful.     (S.) 

1 


LISTS   OF   THE   BEST   ROSES        161 

Souvenir  d' Elise  Vardon  (T.). — Cream;  growth  moderate.  A 
fine  exhibition  Tea,  but  a  difficult  Rose  to  cultivate  on 
account  of  its  weak  growth.     (A.) 

Souvenir  de  Catherine  Guillot  (T.).— Growth  moderate.  A 
distinct  and  charming  button-hole  Rose.  A  vigorous- 
growing  Rose  of  the  same  unique  colour  would  be  a  great 
acquisiuon.     (A.) 

Souvenir  de  la  Malmaison  (Bourbon). — Blush  white  ;  vigorous. 
One  of  the  oldest  Roses  grown.  A  hardy  and  free- 
flowering  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Souvenir  de  S.  A.  Prince  (T.). — White;  vigorous.  A  good 
white  exhibition  and  garden  Tea.     (A.) 

Souve?iir  du  President  Carnot  (H.T.). — White;  vigorous.  A 
very  free-flowering  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

Stanwell  Perpetual  (Scotch). — Pale  blush.  One  of  the  earliest 
and  latest  garden  Roses  to  flower.     Fragrant.     (A.) 

*  Suzanne  M.  Rodocanachi  (H.P.). — Glowing  rose;  vigorous. 

A  lovely  exhibition  and  garden  Rose.     (A.) 

The  Bride  (T.). — White;  moderately  vigorous.  Has  all  the 
good  qualities  as  an  exhibition  Rose  of  the  fine  variety, 
Catherine  Mermet,  from  which  it  sported.     (A.) 

The  Garland  (H.C.). — Blush.  A  very  old  summer-flowering 
climber  of  distinct  habit  and  foliage.     (S.) 

Turner's  Crimson  Ranibler  (CI.  Poly.). — Crimson.  A  remark- 
ably vigorous  climber;  flowers  freely  in  clusters.  Few 
climbing  Roses  in  recent  years  have  been  so  largely 
grown.     (S.) 

*Ulrich  Brunner  (H.P.). — Cherry  red.  One  of  the  most 
vigorous  of  all  the  H.P.'s.  Fine  both  as  an  exhibition  and 
garden  Rose.     (A) 

Victor  Hugo  (H.P.). — Bright  crimson;  moderately  vigorous. 
The  brightest  crimson  of  all  the  exhibition  H.P.'s.     (A.) 

*  Viscountess  Folkestone  (H.T '.). — Creamy  white ;  vigorous  ;  free- 

flowering.     The  most  charming  white,  or  nearly  white, 
garden  Rose.     (A.) 

L 


1 62     ROSES   FOR   ENGLISH   GARDENS 

White  Banksian  and  Yellow  Banksian. — Both  are  very  old 
climbing  Roses,  bearing  clusters  of  small  double  flowers. 
Being  tender  they  will  only  thrive  out-of-doors  in  warm 
and  sheltered  situations.     (S.) 

*  White  Maman    Cochet   (T.).— White ;   vigorous.     The  best 

exhibition  and  garden  Tea  Rose  of  recent  introduc- 
tion.    (A.) 

White  Pet  (China). — White ;  vigorous.  May  be  best  described 
as  a  dwarf-growing  and  free-flowering  Felicite-Perpetue. 
(A.) 

Wichuriana  (Sin.). — White;  very  vigorous.  A  new  type  of 
Rose  which  has  a  trailing  habit,  and  late  in  the  summer 
bears  a  large  number  of  small  white  flowers.  The  foliage 
is  small  and  shining.     (S.) 

*  William  Allen  Richardson  (N.). — Deep  orange,  with  white 

edges.  A  most  distinct  and  valuable  climbing  Rose. 
Early  in  the  season  the  flowers  often  come  almost 
white.     (A.) 

A  good  many  charming  Roses  are  unavoidably 
omitted  from  the  above  list,  but  sufficient  have  been 
mentioned  to  show  the  wealth  of  really  good  varieties 
for  all  purposes  now  available. 


INDEX 


Abbreviations,  149 
Aimee  Vibert,  47,  55,  57 
Anna  Alexieff,  5 1 
Aphis,  117  ;  on  pot  Roses,  138 
Arbours,  45 
Arches  of  Roses,  45 
Arranging  Roses  in  water,  74 
Assorting  cut  Roses,  75,  76 
Austrian  Briers,  24,  59 ;  pruning, 

104 
Ayrshires,  21,  51,  53,    70,   75  ; 

as  standards,  16 

Back-yards,  Roses  in,  65 

Banksian  Roses,  17,  30,  78 ; 
pruning,  105 

Beds  of  Roses  under  glass,  144 

Bennett's  Seedling,  21,  54 

Blairii  No.  2,  37 

Botanical  names  wrongly  used, 6 

Boursault,  16,  20,  37 

Boxes  for  showing  Roses,  127 

Brier  Roses,  22,  23 

Brier  stocks,  107 

Budding  standards,  109  ;  bud- 
ding dwarf  stocks,  no 

Burnet  Rose,  22,  23 

Cabbage  Rose,  12,  13,  19 
Caterpillars,  116  ;  on  pot  Roses, 

139 
Celeste,  16,  20 


China     Rose,    18,    20  ;     dwarf 

kinds,  26  ;  with  lavender,  17 
Cinnamon  Rose,  14,  19 
Climbing  Roses,  21  ;  on  pergola, 

46  ;    on   hedges,    50  ;    under 

glass,  147 
Cluster  Roses,  57 
Compost  for  pot  Roses,  140 
Cottage  Maid,  14,  19 
Coupe  d'Hebe,  18,  20 
Cramoisi  Superieur,   18,  20,  81, 

88 
Crimson  Rambler,  5,  46,  62 
Cuckoo-spit,  117 
Cut  Roses,  73 
Cutting  blooms  of  show  Roses, 

128 
Cuttings  of  Roses,  34,  in 

Damask,  13,  14,  19 
De  la  Grifferaie  stock,  33,  83 
Disbudding  show  Roses,  126 
Drought,  115 

Dundee  Rambler,  21,  47,  53,  54 

Dwarf  or   Pompon   Roses,   12, 

25  ;  list  of,  26  ;  their  use,  26 

Emilie  Plantier,  19,  20 
Enemies  of  the  Rose,  113 
Exhibiting  Roses,  121 

Felicite-Perpetue,  21,  54 


164 


INDEX 


Flora,  21 

Forcing  Roses,  143 
Fortune's  Yellow,  18,  20 
Fountains  of  Roses,  53 
Free-growing    Roses,    53  ;     in 

trees,  54,  71  ;  in  wood  edge, 

54 
Free-growing    Roses,   pruning, 

104 
Frosts,  protection  from,  114 
Fungoid  pests,  118 

Garden  Roses,  new,  3 ;  prun- 
ing, 104  ;  exhibiting,  132 
Gardens,  Rose,  66  et  seq. 
Garland  Rose,  21 
Garlands  on  chains,  49,  53,  54, 

59 
Greenfly,  117 
Grubs,  116,  117  ;  on  pot  Roses, 

139 

Hardiness  of/?,  rugosa,  8 

Hebe's  Lip,  14 

Hedges,  growing  Roses  in,  15  ; 

of  Roses,  48 
Hedges,  Roses  suitable  for,  51 
Himalayan  Roses,  7 
Houses,  Roses  on,  59 
Hybrid   Perpetuals,  the  oldest, 

13  ;  origin  of,  14,  85 
Hybrid     Perpetuals,     pruning, 

102 
Hybrid  Teas,  84  ;  pruning,  103 

Insect    pests,    115,    123  ;    on 
pot  Roses,  138 

Labels,  98 

Lady  Emily  Peel,  19,  20 


Liquid  manure  for  pot  Roses, 

136 
List,  alphabetical,  of  best  Roses 

in  cultivation,  153^/^. 
List    of   best  climbing   Roses, 

153 
List   of  Garden  or   Decorative 

Roses,  151  ;  Roses  for  under 

glass,  152 
List  of  Show  Roses,  149  ;  H.P. 

and    H.T.,    150;    Teas    and 

Noisettes,  151 
Lord  Penzance,  9 

Madame  Alfred  Carriere,  75 
Madame  Plantier,  20,  51 
Maiden's  Blush,  16,  20 
Manetti  stock,  33,  107 
Manuring  Rose-beds,  93  ;  show 

Roses,  125 
Mildew,  118  ;  on  pot  Roses,  139 
Moss  Rose,  12,  19 
Mulching,  126 
Musk  Roses,  21 

New  garden  Roses,  list  of,  10, 

11 
Noisettes,  pruning,  103 

Old  garden  Roses,  12  ;  list  of, 

19 
Own  root   Roses,  33 ;    in  poor 

soils,  34 

Pegging  down  Roses,  106 
Pergola,  40  ;  with  brick  piers, 

40,   42  ;    of  wood,    43  ;    with 

hanging  garlands,  44 
Pillar  Roses,  18,  36  ;    pruning, 

104  ;  list  of,  38,  39  ;  planting, 

97 


INDEX 


165 


Planting  roses,  91  et  seq.  ;  show 

Roses,  122 
Pompons,    6,    19,    25  ;    list   of, 

26,27 
Portland  Rose,  14,  20 
Posts,  tarring  ends,  50 
Pot  Roses,  135 
Preparation  of  Rose-beds,  92 
Propagation,  107 
Protection  from  frost,  114 
Provence  Rose,  12,  13,  19 
Provins,  12,  13,  19 
Pruning  free  Roses  on  hedges, 

5o 
Pruning    Roses,  99-106 ;    show 
Roses,  122 


Red  Rust,  119 

Red  Spider,  118  ;  on  pot  Roses, 
138 

Reine  Blanche,  14 

Repotting  Roses  in  pots,  140 

Riviera,  Roses  on  the,  77 

Rock  work,  Roses  for,  23 

Rosa  Mundi,  14,  19 

R.  alba,  15,  20,  29,  47 

R.  alpina,  16,  17,  20,  29 

R.  altaica,  22,  29 

R.  arvensis,  17,  20,  30 

R.  Banksicc,  17,  30,  78  ;  prun- 
ing, 105 

R.  Bmnoni,  5,  31,  67 

R.  centifolia,  12,  13,  19,  29 

R.  cinnamomea,  14,  19,  30 

R.  damascena,  19,  30 

R.  Fortunei,  20,  79 

R.  gallica,  12,  13,  14,  19,  29,  30  ; 
pruning,  105 

R.  indica,  20,  31,  88 

R.  lucida,  14,  20,  31,  67 

R.  lutea,  24,  31 


R.  multiflora,  5,  6,  31,  55  ; 
pruning,  104 

R.  muscosa,  21 

R.  rubigi?wsa,  32 

R.  rugosa,  29,  32  ;  hybrids  of, 
8  ;  pruning,  105 

R.  sftinosissima,  20,  22,  23,  32 

R.  wichuriana,  7,  32,  67  ;  hy- 
brids of,  8 

Rose  d' Amour,  15,  20 

Rose  gardens,  66  et  seq. 

Rosemary  with  China  Rose, 
17 

Roses  as  cut  flowers,  73 

Roses  under  glass,  134 


Scotch  Brier,  20,  22  ;  pruning, 
105  ;  on  rockwork,  23 

Scotch  Brier,  their  winter 
beauty,  23  ;  on  banks,  23 

Screens  of  Roses,  48 

Seedling  Brier  stocks,  107 

Shading  show  Roses,  127 

Soil  for  Rose-beds,  92 

Species  as  garden  Roses,  9,  28  ; 
list  of,  29,  30,  31 

Staking  Roses,  97 

Stanwell  Perpetual,  24 

Stocks  for  Roses,  107  ;  for  stan- 
dards, 108 

Summer-house,  ugly,  made 
beautiful,  62 

Summer  treatment  of  pot  Roses, 
140 

Sweet-briers,  9, 15,  20,  55  ;  prun- 
ing, 105 


Tea  Roses,  cut,  73  ;  pruning  of, 

103 
Tender  Roses,  59 


i66 


Thinning  show  Roses,  124 

Thrips,  118 

Trailing    habit    of    R.    wichu- 

riana,  7 
Training   rambling   Roses   into 

trees,  55,  57,64,71 
Trellises,  48,  63 
Trenching  Rose-beds,  93 
Tubes  for  show  Roses,  128 


INDEX 

Umbrella  training,  37 
Velvet  Rose,  14 


Walls,  Roses   on,  57  ;  Roses 

trained  over,  60 
Whitsuntide  Rose,  14 

York  and  Lancaster,  14,  19 


THE   END 


.•    ,  :   ;;   • 


